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Ok, I am going to make a plunge, and relly skimp so I can get a welder. I am thininking about getting a Hobart Handler 130/Miller Millermatic 130. From what i have heard these 2 welders are identical, except for the point that they are different names. Now I know I can get the hobart in Gilroy for $450. Should I save up and get this, or should I save more, and buy somethign bigger, like the 175 (or look used and get the 185) I would perfer a 110 volt welder because I dont have the 220 hookup.. but I can install that easy enough if I have to. So what should I do? Thanks. Garrett
 

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I'd hold out for a 220 if you plan on any serious fab work. As for models, not sure. I've heard about the Millermatic 185, but mines a tad older (Millermatic 35).

Pete
 

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Originally posted by PW:
<STRONG>Ok, I am going to make a plunge, and relly skimp so I can get a welder. I am thininking about getting a Hobart Handler 130/Miller Millermatic 130. From what i have heard these 2 welders are identical, except for the point that they are different names. Now I know I can get the hobart in Gilroy for $450. Should I save up and get this, or should I save more, and buy somethign bigger, like the 175 (or look used and get the 185) I would perfer a 110 volt welder because I dont have the 220 hookup.. but I can install that easy enough if I have to. So what should I do? Thanks. Garrett</STRONG>
Don't skimp. The 110 Welders are ....OK...but 220 is where it's at. The Hobart Handler 175 (about the same as the Miller 172) was on sale for $555 to your door at www.cyberweld.com/ That includes the welder, regulator and a cart if the sale is still going on. I have that welder and very happy with it. When you go get a tank for it get the biggest you can. Yeah you will pay more up front but in the long run it will pay for it's selve in savings on refills. 30# is $18 to refill. 80# is $25. Gas also goes a lot quicker than you would think. A 30# tank can be run dry in a few hours of heavy welding.
 

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I have the miller185 that I use to weld everything (new floorboards in my 48 2A-Differentials and roll bars in my race and derby cars-flat bed for my tow rig-tow bar for my 2A)however,if the dealer I bought from had told me about the 175 I would have gotten it.
Whatever you get I would advise at least a 220 volt machine. The 110 are fine for light duty work but I would not use it for anything I would depend on for my life.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
ok, sounds like I should just jump on getting a Hobart handler 175 or a Miller Millermatic 175. Now, Is there any differences between these 2 machines, or are they really the same thing with different names? thanks again for the help.. hopefully I will be fabbing stuff up soon. Garrett
 

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Originally posted by PW:
<STRONG>ok, sounds like I should just jump on getting a Hobart handler 175 or a Miller Millermatic 175. Now, Is there any differences between these 2 machines, or are they really the same thing with different names? thanks again for the help.. hopefully I will be fabbing stuff up soon. Garrett</STRONG>
The big difference that I was point blank told about by the local Miller dealer (pye Barker) is the wire feed. The Hobard uses a high grade plastic suport cage. The Miller uses a cast pot metal. The Dealer told me should the Hobart ever fail that the Miller cast pot metal would bolt right up. The other thing I think might be a different is the ground clamp. The hobart one is a little lower quality.
Warranty on the units is the same and any Miller Dealer will honor the Hobart Warranty.
As for the $499 price. What your not getting iver the $555 is probably no cart. I paid $599 for mine on sale at the Local Northern with The Delux cart. The $555 price is for the model with the light duty cart. Not sure it's $50 better of a cart. Might be worth getting the $499 deal and make your own cart as your first project with the welder. <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">
 

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I was also told the Millers are all copper wound while the Hobarts are copper and aluminum.

For me (and the other guy, we split the cost)the Miller was worth the little extra.

Charly
 

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I have had great luck with my Millermatic 185. A little pricey, but it has worked out great for me. Definatly get a 220V one...
 

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Speaking of welders, here in Europe (Sweden atleast) the standard electrical outlet is 220V.

My stickwelder is a 250A/380V Esab, and my mig is a 125A/220V -How does our "electrical systems" compare?

Everyone "who knows stuff" says that you cannot weld any good/thick materials with 2-phase, you need atleast 3-phase (380V) welders.

Are your 220V outlets 3-phase or what?

/Curious
 

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I'm by no means sure about this but I think you have 50hz 220 single phase and the US has 60hz single phaze 220 power. I'm not sure what's better, but I'm sure some POR member will fill us in.
 

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Which Search Button ?

Just a gentle Flame, but did you try a search ? I had the EXACT same thread dated November 2, 2001. :rasta: :rasta: :rasta: If you want to keep it simple, and unless you have 220VAC, I suggest you get a 110v. I received zillions of qualified opinions, but they petained more to the technical aspects of welding, rather than the rash-bash world of fabrication. Since you are budget savy, be realistic. Are you going to build and weld your own cage ? (tubing bender) Is there any 1/4-inch thick steel anywhere on your rig other than the axles ? The 220 VAC could cost more than the welder......... :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:
 

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220 volt if you plan on any serious fab work!!!

The 220 version is usually about $100 to $200 more and is well worth it for the versatility. Otherwise, you'll be buying another better welder later. Kinda like building your truck...do it right the first time!
 

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I had the same questions when I was getting ready to buy a welder. I am in college, so the cost issue was really a big factor. After talking to a lot of people, I came to the conclusion that I could get by on the 110V, but I would be much better off with the 220V. Besides, hooking up 220V is as easy as finding a friend that is an electrician and getting him to hook it up for you for a six pack of beer.
My family just bought a Miller 175 for my dad this last Christmas. It was around $600 for it from Welders-Direct.com. It came with the free cart and decent regulator. That also was with free shipping, so that was pretty nice. The differnece between the Miller 175 and the Hobart 175 is that the Miller has infinite adjustment on the temperature range and the Hobart has preset increments that you have to click to. That is why the Hobart is about $70 cheaper from Welders-Direct.com. Both are great welders in my opinion.
I have a little older version of the Miller 175. I have the Miller Challenger 172. I use it on everything from sheet metal to welding axle brackets for custom suspensions. I don't even use gas, becuase I can't really afford it. Sure I have to deal with slag, but nothing a little grinding can't take care of. I love my welder and if I had to do it over again, I might step up to the 185 or 210, but hopefully that will come when I am actually making money instead of spending it to learn.
I say save a little longer and get the 220V. Also, that way, you won't have friends always coming over to borrow your welder ,since they don't have 220V. HTH Thomas:D :D
 

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hey ouibus......I am looking to build a rig up here this summer.....instead of buying my own welder can I just borrow yours?


what year are you up here (CSU I assume)?



oh yeah.....go 220 just to do it right the first time
 
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