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I know there are a couple businesses out there selling conversion kits, but has anyone here done it or know someone who has?

I'm just wondering if the benefits are worth the cost and effort of converting. I'd like to hear real-world experience if possible.
 

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i got the plates from weps, and the braces/ caliper mounts from kabuki on here. and did the machining/ welding myself.

im using 3/4 ton rotors and corvette 4 piston calipers.

they work amazing. and before hand i had the drums w/ all new wheel cylinders and older but in really good condition pads and drums. they sucked big time. i was and still am using a toy mini truck booster w/ a one ton master cylinder. w/ 1/4" and -4 lines.

i could barley get the rig to stop before... now they feel like brakes off of a car from the factory.

i just wish i did it from the start instead of buying new parts for the drums... then i had to switch wheels for the different lug pattern.... but it was worth it.
 

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I am still running the stock drums on my ranger and I know it is not light and the mog drums stop it very well on the road or trail. I did put 2 wilwood residual valves in the brake lines they are used in a lot of street rods and they make my brake system work very well. As long as you have them adjusted right they do fine...I mean they were used to stop several tons of truck and cargo originally so stoping a vehicle that weighs considerably less will be fine! Drum brakes are not a forget it till the pads need changed system they do need adjustment as they wear!
 

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ExtremeToy,

I'm guessing you are just using Mog axles on another rig? My guess is your problem is with selecting the right master cylinder. My brakes are fine on a Unimog 404. E-Brake works better than any vehicle I've owned actually. That said these are new wheel cylinders, lines, pads, cables, etc.

If I was going through the expense of putting Mog axles under another rig then I would probably go with Disc brakes but would not make the switch on a whole Mog.
 

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I am currently in the process of convert to disks from drums now. One thing that I can tell you is that it is not CHEAP. The little things is what adds up. I spent $550 dollars at Advance Autoparts on Calipers, pads, brakes lines, wheel studs, and lug nuts. I already had my rotors and box braces. I will end up having $1,200 in the conversion before it is over with.

I have a question for those that have done it. Do you leave the dust cover on? It is rivited onto the knuckle piece and looks to be a bitch to get off. I was wondering if it could be just left on.
 

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I am currently in the process of convert to disks from drums now. One thing that I can tell you is that it is not CHEAP. The little things is what adds up. I spent $550 dollars at Advance Autoparts on Calipers, pads, brakes lines, wheel studs, and lug nuts. I already had my rotors and box braces. I will end up having $1,200 in the conversion before it is over with.

I have a question for those that have done it. Do you leave the dust cover on? It is rivited onto the knuckle piece and looks to be a bitch to get off. I was wondering if it could be just left on.
the dust cover would get in the way of the brake lines since they now come out the top instead of the bottom (another plus to disks) so i just chiseled off the rivits... plus it looks beter w/o them IMO
 

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I used Rover front rotors,pads,calipers all the way around. It stops on a dime and leaves $0.09 to spare. If I do it again I will go with WEP's set-up for cost and ease of installation.
 

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Bentcrank do you have any photots of your rover disc install??
I want to do mine & there is lots more rover stuff here in Australia
than chev. Any help would be great.

Jeff
 

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I did my disk brake conversion a little different. I went with the 6x5.5 bolt pattern by just machining the hubs and used 85 Toyota rotors and calipers. Works well.

Here's a quick write up I had posted on a local board. http://throttlehappy.invisionzone.com/index.php?showtopic=1007

Someday I'll do an update on my build thread.
Sounds resourceful. I want to see the pics but I cant because I don’t have an account. Update your build thread!
 

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I've been cruising my 62 Uinmog with 40's for about 6 months now. It has the stock drum brakes. The rig according to the pink slip is 6000 pounds. I have no problems stopping whatsoever. It's not as easy as say a honda civic but for my top speed of maybe 50mph, works great. Again thats for a 6000# rig. I wouldn't say they suck though.

Dics are no doubt better, but not mandatory!
 

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I got my hubs about 4yrs ago from "straight forward supplys" in the UK and fabbed the rest of the brackets to hold the calipers myself. I wouldn't do it again if I had the choice. Weps is the way togo if you're gonna do disc's. He is by far the cheapest and it seems he and everyone else is out there beat'n the shit outta his stuff and it's hold'n up.
 

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I may have been too forward in my "disc brakes suck" comment, but here is why I feel that way.
I used to wheel a M715- non selfadjusting drums all 4 corners. PERFECT shoes,pads, wheel cylinders. 1 hour in the mud,slop, ooze, and those brakes were only trying to press the slime into submission.(no braking action) It is the design, not the condition of the components.
On my (current) mog axled rig I did front discs and the stock drums on the back at 1st. It seemed to brake pretty good (IMO)UNTIL I went to kentucky, and there are REAL hills and mountains there, unlike flat assed Indiana. I honestly had no usable brakes, and it was scary and unnerving at the same time.
I am just trying to put some info out there that perfect condition drums still fall short of the clamping action that a disc caliper will afford you. The"Squeegee" cleaning action is another plus. The pics are on my website of how to do it yourself if you want to.
 
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