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Discussion Starter #1
I'm trying to plan my install and wanted some info or diagrams of your design. I have an idea of how I'm going to do it, but maybe your idea is better?

Also I'm going to be running a TH400/D20 so if you have this set-up also maybe some info on your mount for those would be good.

Thanks in advance for any input.
 

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Hey Cliff I think that was me. My engine mounts are the street rod design from MTS. I believe they may be a Chrysler mount. Shoot me a good email address and I will send you pics. I was concerned that a mount from a crossmember equipped vehicle would tend to try to spread the framerails apart because of the diagnal load.

My rear mount is a stock late 70's chevy crossmember. Everything tucks up into the frame, but that dam mount hangs about 3 inches below.

If you havent bought headers yet, think twice about the sandersons Right now I am not a big fan
 

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ChiScouter said:
Hey Cliff I think that was me. My engine mounts are the street rod design from MTS. I believe they may be a Chrysler mount. Shoot me a good email address and I will send you pics. I was concerned that a mount from a crossmember equipped vehicle would tend to try to spread the framerails apart because of the diagnal load.

My rear mount is a stock late 70's chevy crossmember. Everything tucks up into the frame, but that dam mount hangs about 3 inches below.

If you havent bought headers yet, think twice about the sandersons Right now I am not a big fan

can you send me the pics too
i'm throwing in a 425


[email protected]


thanks
 

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How about just posting 'em here, so you don't have to email 'em to eveyrone individually, and the rest of us can check it out too. ;)
 

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Here's a quick diagaram of what mine look like. They are 1/2" plate bent to match the angle of the stock '69 coupe de ville motor mounts. Gusseted back to the frame, and tied together with a crossmember that bolts to the bottom of each plate. I need to chain my motor down because the rubber mounts aren't strong enough and my motor moves all over the place. If I were to do it over I would fab something using poly spring bushings.
 

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I would be happy to post them, but I am a just about computer illiterate. I haven't found a easy way to post pictures that I understand, and feel like a moron asking others to post my shit. Give me a wrench and a hammer and I am fearless, give me a keyboard and I am a sniveling wimp. If someone requesting the pics wants to post them that would be great, I am waiting on Cliffs email and then I was going to send them out.
 

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ChiScouter said:
I would be happy to post them, but I am a just about computer illiterate. I haven't found a easy way to post pictures that I understand, and feel like a moron asking others to post my shit. Give me a wrench and a hammer and I am fearless, give me a keyboard and I am a sniveling wimp. If someone requesting the pics wants to post them that would be great, I am waiting on Cliffs email and then I was going to send them out.

you can sed them my way and I can post em
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I don't have a red star anymore, so please send them to someone else. Thanks for the info.

I Think I'm going to take the route Ben took.

Ben didn't you just reuse the Stock caddy mounts for the engine and then mount those to your fabbed mounts?? and where are you planning on finding poly mounts??

The only time I've ever had a problem running the stock caddy mounts is when the were beaten to death from years of abuse, then I'd just go to the 'yard and get some "newer" ones and they always worked great.
I've only torn one and that was with my BUILT caddy 513.
 

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No, I used new rubber motor mounts from the parts store.

If I were to do it over, I'd build one with a spring bushing, similar to the M.O.R.E. bombproof mounts for jeeps, like this

 

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Thanks Chief, I don't know how to compress the dam things.

The notch on the mount on the left side of the pic is for header clearance. The hole on the mount on the right side of the pic is for steering box bolt clearance . I am actually going to raise the mounts higher up in the frame than I had planned. That hole for steering box bolt will be opened up to be a notch

I am bolting them to the frame to begin with until I am sure driveshaft angles will work without vibration, and the engine won't hit anything when torquing and flexing. After it is up and running I will zip in a couple of beads.

I hope 2 grade 8 bolts per side with a backing plate on the outside of the frame will hold it together until I weld it for good.

The rubber mount bolted to the engine is from MTS.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I like the idea of using leaf spring style mounts, but that may take more fabbing than I want to do. On the other hand, if I fab my own mounts I could mount the engine as low as I want "theoretically"

So why don't you like the Sanderson headers?
 

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I mounted the engine as low as I could. I have about an inch of clearance between the headers and the frame. I went to a borgenson U joint to replace the rag, but it is still too close to the headers. With the engine in place now the pan is within a half an inch of where the bottom of the IH pan was. I am going to scab a brace on the outside of the frame, that will strengthen a weak area, and move the steering joint away from the headers. I am worried the engine will rock more than the inch I have between the headers and frame, so I am going to raise the engine another inch which will give me more clearance.

I have my 241 clocked almost straight sideways. It is right up against the side of the frame, so there is no room for a pipe down the right side of the truck. I am running the right exhaust across the shallow part of the pan and then turning backwards into a collector meeting with the left downpipe. Running a single exhaust the rest of the way, tuning sideways behind the step, and then backwards outside the frame and out the bottom of the right rear quarter.

The collector flanges on the headers are pointing towards each other (or perpendicular to the 90 degree angle of the V of the block) rather than straight down(straight down would mean the flanges would be parallel to the ground) .

Did that sentence above make any sense? I wrote it and I dont think I can understand it.

The bottom line is clearance from the pumpkin is really tight, clearance from the front of the sump and the bottom of the pan is tight, and I had to booty fab the bolt on collecter on the right side header to make things fit. It looks crappy The sandersons come with a offset collecter and it wouldn't work on my right side, I had to buy another pair of standard collectors and use one of them.

These headers aren't a good fit for my setup. Al at MTS has some headers for a caddy in a nova. I would take a long look at those if I was starting over particularly if you plan on running duals down each side of the drivetrain. Being as I think most of you guys are spring over the diff clearance won't be an issue, then the only problem might be clearance between the starter, driveshaft, and pipe. Once again the SOA may take care of that.

There is a pic of my exhaust somewhere on the IH board here, search on my handle. It was in the last few weeks.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yeah that sentence made sense.

I plan on running single exhaust anyway so I don't think the angle of the headers is a problem for me.

Did you "Test fit" your engine with the headers on and the steering bolted up and any other Clearance crtitcal items in place.

If there's one thing I've learned during all of my caddy engine installs (which include: 71 Nova, 79 Malibu, 70 & 72 El Camino, 71 Buick Centurion, 73 Dodge 1/2 Ton) is this: Leave as much engine compartment stuff in tact during test fitting as possible!!!

Did you have any problems clearing the Heater set-up??

What Radiator did you run. I'm hoping to find a suitable Junkyard doner. If I do, I'll post what I found for sure!!!

Thanks again for all the info, It will help me a lot I'm sure!!!
 

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feel free to send more pics if you like if you want them posted
 
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