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Discussion Starter #1
Has anybody done an SAS with only 2 or 3 inches of lift? If so, what how did you setup the mounts, what springs did you use....?
 

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Talk to Scott Drawz.

From the way he talked though, it seems like he's got a lot of steering clearance issue's...?

Personally, I'd recommend going 4" to not have to deal with those problems as much. 4" isn't that tall. Go wider too to make up for it... <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">
 

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I'm currently researching the same thing, Eli. I don't want to go too tall, because I run a lot of tight wooded trails that are off-camber. I think Erik is on to something with the 4" idea. I think that's what I'm going to do, but I will probably end up being right around 5" because of about 1" built into the front spring hanger. I'm currently looking at running the All-Pro 4" long travel front springs, but that may change. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

HTH
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I want to keep it low, I don't mind notching the frame if needed for clearance.

I've seen a few 4Runners that were SAS, supposedly only 5 or 6 inches, but they sure looked TALL.
 

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I'm running about 4", but I don't see any reason why a person couldn't go lower. You wouldn't be able to use hy-steer, and you'd have to be very careful where/how you mounted the PS box, but it should be doable.

Why would clearance would be an issue - we all have to deal with clearance under full stuff, so as long as that is cool, static height shouldn't matter. The only other thing that might be an issue (again w/ hi-steer) is the tie-rod/oil pan clearance.

Come to thing of it, my old 4Runner had about 3" of lift (definitely no more) w/ cross-over and NO clerance problems. It has since been converted to hy-steer and the owner had to lift the engine to keep things from bumping into each other...
 

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A customer did a SAS with a 87 runner, and got away with only 2.5" lift springs. he used Marlins x-over low steer, and a 2" body lift to clear 35's, with a bit of fire wall mods, and the center pin 2.5" forward.. On the rear, 5" extended springs with Orbit-Eye's. He says that nothing hits the frame except a small 1.5" poly bump stop.
 

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Eli - AOR is referring to Trey's rig. He's running AOR's springs, SAS kit and the stuff mentioned above. He's got plenty of room for the 35's. he hasn't had it off road, but no bad handling characteristics so far and he's driven from to and from Mike's house several times in it (w/o front shocks). I'm also planning on going with a low lift - 3" AOR springs to keep me legal (or at least closer to it) in MA. I hate Mass lift laws <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0">
 

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If I only went with 4" of lift with the SAS, I would have trouble clearing the 38's I want to put on.......can you jam a D44 under the front with less lift? <IMG SRC="smilies/blender.gif" border="0">
 

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i too am thinking about the same thing. i still want to be able to squeeze under trees, and maybe into _some_ garages.

with a front 1.5" drop hanger and 4" springs the cab starts getting up there. i know there are many companies out there that are making flat steering arms, so that might help. but im thinking standard crossover is the best way to go to avoid having the draglink getting too cozy with the oil pan (especially w/ my v6). one thing i was wondering about is the rear shackle mount. i'm guessing a through the frame mount a la all-pro would keep things down a bit.

anyone have some input? scott? 39.5's are nice and all, but i'm only looking to run 35's.

James <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">
 

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Im running 4.5" of lift and 38"sx. Its a 90 V6 p/u with all pro high steer, Moved the steering box 2.5" forward for drag link to oil pan clearance.And yes I had to message the firewall and trim....hack the fenders but not much <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

CJ
 

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I am running the AP 5" springs with 35 BFG MTs and I have flopped it twice. Both times I tried to take way to high a line. At the time I was running my Rancho 9's on 2, I now run them on 4 and both my wife and I have had it at 30 + degrees and it has not even though about going over. here is a pic of it in the "Box" on a bad line.
 

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I'm running 3" with the FJ80 system.... not exactly leaf springs.... that's what the stock coil springs gave.

Brian
 

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With a shackle reversal like Zuk runs, you could run a large tire with a very small lift. What is the minmum height to use Hysteer?

Mike.
 

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Originally posted by MEK:
<STRONG>With a shackle reversal like Zuk {snip}</STRONG>
<font color="yellow">
Hmmm... that's a good idea. Front shackles make the tire move forward on compression, insetead of back toward the firewall, where toys always rub.

By the way, MEK: I think we've oficially termed it a shackle unreversal, FYI. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"></font>
 

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Well, as far as I know, my rig has the least lift w/ hysteer..

2.5" susp.lift total

1" drop hanger
stock toy rears with 2 mazda's added. (too soft for my v6)
FRORFab steering arms
rock rods (important key)

The deal is this:
My draglink hits the frame at extreme compression and the top of the leaves at extreme droop with wheels turned. Without the rockrods, it would bend the d-link for sure.

It's definately not the best setup, but it works.... future plans are too add more spring lift and remove most of the body lift, yet leave in the drivetrain lift. Mega undercarriage clearance baby! I know it'll involve some serious body pan work to fit though.....(tranny tunnel, gastank clearance, etc..)

Hope that helps. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by ScottD:
<STRONG>Well, as far as I know, my rig has the least lift w/ hysteer..

2.5" susp.lift total
</STRONG>
so you still have the coils in the rear and the 1.5" spacer? does it sit even?

by mazda's, what exactly do you mean? you took rear leafs off what year truck and added which parts of mazda springs to what part of the toyota rears?

do you think if you used standard instead of high crossover you would still have clearance issues with the draglink? i'm assuming you left your ps box in the factory location.

one more thing, how far forward did you move your axle? is the drop hanger moved forward? or do just the springs relocate the axle?

thanks,
James <IMG SRC="smilies/flipoff.gif" border="0">
 

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<IMG width=442 height=608 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/;lkaj;orituot.jpg">

heres allpros 4 inch kit(front and rear)with a 2 inch body lift and 2 inch drivetrain lift, mega belly clearance with the budbuilt xmember!! they start off reeeally tall but have settled in real nice. i too wanted to stay low, not too tippy! <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">
 

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Update on Trey's SAS

Black_Panther said:
Eli - AOR is referring to Trey's rig. He's running AOR's springs, SAS kit and the stuff mentioned above. He's got plenty of room for the 35's. he hasn't had it off road, but no bad handling characteristics so far and he's driven from to and from Mike's house several times in it (w/o front shocks). I'm also planning on going with a low lift - 3" AOR springs to keep me legal (or at least closer to it) in MA. I hate Mass lift laws <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0">
Trey had the same issues of his draglink hitting the frame on compression. I guess with a little work on the tube bender,Scott E. of Rockstomper cured his problem with no added bumpsteer.
 

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Is this too high. No rubs in front with 35's. Would probably clear 38's (in front). Also has Hysteer, no interference.
 

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