[TNToy]

While I was at home depot today checking prices on air compressor fittings, I noticed that 1)A good brand's 10" saw is rougly equivalent in price to a cheap 14" saw... and that they sell metal-cutting abrasive disks for both sizes of saw.

My question is simply: Why does everyone use a 14"? Is cutting tubing/bar stock/etc with a 10" saw fairly similar to welding 3/8" plate with a 110 MIG welder: You can attempt it, but it's just plain more work than it's worth?

 

[Scout Dude]

It doesn't take long for a 14" blade to wear down to a 10" blade..keep that in mind. BTW, I have a cheap one that I have been using for about 4 years...it's on it's second set of brushes and still going strong. Sometimes, they are not as cheap as they seem.

 

[frankie fountain]

we use a hack saw on our cuts.chop saws are to loud and messy:flipoff2:

 

[TNToy]

we use a hack saw on our cuts.chop saws are to loud and messy:flipoff2:

You mean a band saw? A hack saw is a hand tool, and I can't imagine waht your ams must look like if you're building buggies with one of them.

A band saw's a bit beyond both my current needs and my budjet.

 

[frankie fountain]

You mean a band saw? A hack saw is a hand tool, and I can't imagine waht your ams must look like if you're building buggies with one of them.

A band saw's a bit beyond both my current needs and my budjet.

nop its a hack saw :flipoff2:
we have a steel blade metal saw meikita i think thats how you spell it?
that mofo is da shit $450.00 and worth every penny blades cost $107.00 but they last a long time unless you try and cut titanium that sorta dulls it

 

[Brad]

I found my 14" worked better and cut angles better once the blade wore down to 10-11"

 

[CSP]

While I was at home depot today checking prices on air compressor fittings, I noticed that 1)A good brand's 10" saw is rougly equivalent in price to a cheap 14" saw... and that they sell metal-cutting abrasive disks for both sizes of saw.

Are you really comparing metal cutting chop saws? I can't say that I've ever seen a 10" chop saw. Sounds to me like you're looking at a 10" mitre saw for wood projects and wanting to use an abrasive blade on it.

 

[TNToy]

Re: Re: Why a 14" "chop saw" and not a 10-inch?

Are you really comparing metal cutting chop saws? I can't say that I've ever seen a 10" chop saw. Sounds to me like you're looking at a 10" mitre saw for wood projects and wanting to use an abrasive blade on it.

Yes. My suspicion is that it turns the blade too fast. I should have worded the initial post better.

 

[tators]

The wood miter saws are not designed for all the heat generated while cutting metal.....

For example the blade guard is plastic and will eventually melt from the hot sparks spraying on it....

I've also heard that the motors aren't sealed as well as a chop saw and the fine metal dust will get to the bearings and lead to a short life....

 

[Bones]

I have my Dad's old 10 miter box and keep forgetting to get a 10" blade to try it out. Can't hurt anything, I hate wood working

 

[76Cruiser]

The Norton blades Home Depot sells suck ass! I have had good luck with a Makita Steel Stud blade. It is made to cut those steel framing studs. Another good one I have used is a Forney chop saw blade. From what I can tell the blades that have the fiberglass looking weaved fiber construction don't work that well. The two I have had luck with are all abrasive material. I hope that makes since. The Makita blade walked around a bit when first starting the cut, but it straightens up as soon as it cuts a groove. The Forney walks around a little bit less. Anyone else have any favorite abrasive blades? I got the Milwaukee 14" from HD, BTW.

 

[TNToy]

The wood miter saws are not designed for all the heat generated while cutting metal.....

For example the blade guard is plastic and will eventually melt from the hot sparks spraying on it....

I've also heard that the motors aren't sealed as well as a chop saw and the fine metal dust will get to the bearings and lead to a short life....

I suppose that makes sense. Never hurts to ask.

 

[TNToy]

I hate wood working

Yeah. Dry rot in your cage would suck.

 

[TNToy]

The Norton blades Home Depot sells suck ass! I have had good luck with a Makita Steel Stud blade. It is made to cut those steel framing studs. Another good one I have used is a Forney chop saw blade.

Hmm... where are you guys buying all this stuff? Is there a chain besides HomeDepot/Lowes/HarborFreight that stocks saw/blades/etc?

Out of those 3 stores, only HF has something that might pass for a decent selection. But all those low-quality power tools/cutting blades HF sells, wear out very quickly... Are you guys just buying this stuff off the internet, or going to a completely different type of store from me?

 

[TLCObsession]

First off the reason for 14" blade is that the actual blade speed is faster - the motors turn the same RPMs, but the larger disc means more inches per second going into the cut....

That being said, I use a Craftsmen compound miter saw as my metal saw. It does OK, but 45 degree cuts are never good enough for a clean miter. The plastic throat does get melted out, but the saw has performed well in the 4 years I have used it. I do try and keep it clean.

The Norton blades do suck. I use some German brand sold locally.

You can buy a cold saw style blade for 7, 10 and 12" chop saws and they are around $95 for the 10" . As soon as I expand my work area, I am getting a decent band saw.

HTH,

Jim

 

[76Cruiser]

I found the Makita blade at a local welding supply. The Forney is from ACE Hardware. Some of the ACE stores have a decent selection of the Forney stuff. A lot of it is pricey, but it is good quality. Forney also makes a blade that looks like the Norton ones. It has a picture of a hand held chop saw on it. I am guessing these blades are designed to handle more side flex than the others. That way they will not explode on you.

The good Forney blade specifically says 'For stationary chop saws only'.

HTH.