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Discussion Starter #1
I've been in the pondering stage for quite some time, and still not sure what I want to do. Currently have a Lance truck camper with some serious frame rot. I really don't think it's worth tearing it down and rebuilding it, though I'm in the process of fixing the worst of it around the tie down points.

My Samurai is on full width axles, so that automatically rules out most "off the shelf" toy haulers, and I'm not really all that wild about buying another stapled together RV that likely already has some level of water damage anyways, nor do I have the budget for something that will properly handle the crawler.

I've been seriously considering picking up a 30ft plus enclosed trailer, and converting the front half to a camper section.

I've been looking over a ton of threads, and keep seeing the same recurring theme though - seems most people are doing the hillbilly hauler with a large flatbed, with the few that go enclosed starting with shorter trailers and copying toy hauler floor plans - the beds/sleeping area in the back, requiring the toys/crawler to be unloaded before you can go to sleep.

This seems nuts to me.. Having to park the thing unattended outside all night, especially so if I'm going on a longer road trip that requires more than 1 day of drive time...I don't want to be leaving a $20K crawler sitting outside in the rest area or parking lot somewhere.. Also the reason I'm thinking enclosed rather than open flatbed

But then... If most people are doing it the other way..I have to wonder if there's some big reason for this that I'm missing? I don't want to get another $20K deep into a trailer only to find out it was a dumb idea the first time I go to use it, lol.
 

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I went with a 24' enclosed with work bench at the front. I went with a shorter trailer to eventually pull behind a motor home. But since I haven't pulled the trigger on a mh yet, we setup an air mattress in front of the rig. With rampovers there is plenty of height to slide your feet under the rig. However you do have to unstrap the rig if cross strapping.

If I wasn't eventually going with a mh I would put a mattress on an overhead track above the rigs hood. Then there would be nothing to do in the morning besides lifting the bed back up, and the rig could stay strapped down. Check out Cargo trailer toy hauler conversions on fb for more ideas.

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But if going strictly with a truck and trailer I would go 35' plus goose neck. Then you'd have the room to keep living quarters completely separate from the garage and the dirt and fumes separate as well. Going goose gives you a couple of things, a great place to put the bed over the neck, and most goose necks have a taller ceiling height. Which you'll need to clear drive over fenders. 8 foot works well, and if you can't find it in a standard goose look for sprint car trailers.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
But if going strictly with a truck and trailer I would go 35' plus goose neck.
That was the plan. I already have the truck and GN hitch, and will be cheaper on both the insurance and maintenance side. Plus my employer will let me drag an RV trailer to out of town job sites rather than staying in hotels, but frowns on a motorhome (why? No clue..never asked, as I never planned on a buying a MH..). Also a hell of a lot cheaper than buying a 4WD motorhome, lol.

Just seemed like every time I saw a GN/5th wheel trailer here, it was a flatbed with someone doing the truck camper on the front, open buggy section on the rear, and most all the enclosed trailers were bumper pulls. I'm sure there's some going the other way, but when the majority are set up in one way, I have to wonder why....

My Samurai sits right at 74" to the top, so I think I can get away with a 7 foot ceiling, though I don't know if that's any kind of a "standard" in heights. It does look like a good number of them are 6.5 feet, and I can see where that would definitely be an issue.
 
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