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Discussion Starter #1
I see everyone cut their 60s. From what I see, 30/35 WMS is ~60" and you D60s range from 67-69" (WMS). If that means an average of 3.5-4.5" extra per side, which doesn't seem like too much considering the fullsizes do all the trails up here (Oregon) too (plus the cops don't care too much about how far the tires stick out).
I'm throwing around a few axle swap choices, and I'd hate to put in a 8.8" rear and a D44 front when I can get fully built 60s for $900 from guys in the for sale forum.
If you've done this, can you post a pic of what it looks like?
My primary reason for asking is that I have never cut an axle, and swapping them under with just changing some flanges, rebuilding the axle and doing brakes sounds like an easier way to go, especially since parts will be easy to find when I do break something.
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Also, i'm running a hamster driven 2.5L in my '92 YJ, and I'm planning on swapping it out for a 5.0, NP435/NP203/D20 setup (most likely, but not for sure yet).

Smack me around and tell me what I should do . . .
 

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Am running fullwidth chevy 60 & 14 BFF with no issues. I chose to go the humvee rim route, and I have been very happy with the rig. I have stickout, but I have a trail-only rig.

No reason you can't go fullwidth, it is all up to what you want....
 

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Full width is the way to go in my book due to the added stability. I'm running D60-14b with 39 irocs on 17x9 beadlocks 5" backspace for 84" overall width.RD
 

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RADDONKEY said:
Full width is the way to go in my book due to the added stability. I'm running D60-14b with 39 irocs on 17x9 beadlocks 5" backspace for 84" overall width.RD
X2, full width (I'm 85" on front) is the best for trail stability, that and stretch the wheelbase is perfect for my terrain (on a flatty) :)
 

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You haven't gone to tillamook lately have you. Stickn out that far will shurly get you a nice donation to the oregon state police xmas party. Keep em covered and good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Nah, I haven't been to Tillamook lately, been about 2 years. However, I can do mud runs and a few trips up there if I cover them up right. I have the 8" fenders for my Jeep already so that'll cover a good chunk.
Also, I use to run Rubicon a lot for fun, so this rig will do great there if I get done what I want.
Thanks for all the support, i'm going full length for sure now ;)
 

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Why go through the trouble and expence of cuttting them down?....If you really think about it there is no reason.Full width is the way to go.
 

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roc krawler said:
You haven't gone to tillamook lately have you. Stickn out that far will shurly get you a nice donation to the oregon state police xmas party. Keep em covered and good luck
How many tickets have you gotten?...I'm still waiting to get my first ticket....I run full width "no cover" and have driven right past the cops.....mind you I don't drive like an a$$...but I know it's bound to happen....
 

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Granted I am from Arkansas, now live in Texas and mostly where in Oklahoma, but have no problems with the law about width.

I am running full size axels, oneton dana 60's. I did not cut them down. I did not want to buy extra expensive cut down shafts everytime I broke. I did opt to use the Hmmwv wheels and I DID NOT recenter them. I feel very stable on 42's and would not have it any otherway.

I know that it does not take much to adapt the chevy 60's to a YJ if you are using leaf springs. On the drivers spring perch move it is about 3/8 of an inch and on the passengers side you can grind into the housing and move that spring over too. Use a larger ubolt instead of the typical stud mounts. Then fab a strong spring plate. this is for springover of course.

JOSH
 

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I cut down my 79 ford front 60 on the driver side by about 3" and many times I had to barely squeeze in between trees to continue on the trails... No custom shaft, just looked up some part number and put a shorter chevy shaft instead. It all depends where you wheel. I left my rear 60 fullwidth.
 

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geberhard said:
Seems kinda weird to get your rear axle wider than the front, and will suck for turning radius. If you are getting one shorter, have teh rear shorter, will give you much better maneuverability.

:)
Not sure if you're talking to me, but my rear axle is not wider than my front,

Stock 79 HP60 wms-wms 69.25"
Stock 79 F250 rear dana 60 wms-wms 65.75"

I shortened my front driver side by 2.75" to be exact so my front 60 wms-wms is 66.5".
 

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geberhard said:
Got it :) What Chevy stock chevy did u use, do you have the part number, or shaft length? Am wondering if it would work the same on a Ford setup (on the passenger side). BTW, what wheels are you running?

Thanks,

Gui
Stock 79 Ford driver side shaft length is 18.68".
Stock Spicer inner shaft that I replaced it with is part number 660182-1 and measures 15.97".

You could go to a Spicer dealer and look in their books, the shaft lengths and part numbers are all there.

Shortenning a front axle is really no big deal, it took me about 2 hours to get it done with no special tools.

My wheels are 16.5"x9.75" with 4.5" backspacing and welded 3/16" inner safety beads, the backspacing is enough to have my hubs protected inside the wheels.
 
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