Pirate 4x4 banner

1 - 20 of 66 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,071 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
About 6 months ago I scored a $174 (tax & disposal fee included) HP 60 from a non-disclosed location in the greater Los Angeles area. This find sparked a few "may as wells" as you will see.

Before I go too far, heres what I had:
94YJ
2.5L, SM420, NP231
FF 60 rear
HP44 front w/Yukon shafts
Detriots, 4.88's etc.
100" WB sprung over in front w/beat superlift springs and XJ's rear
40" goodyears



After finding the front 60 I started getting parts:
Spool (for rear, Detroit from rear goes up front)
Yukon 35sp shafts
Long Joints
Slugs
and all the rest of the junk it takes to rebuild a front end.

Its so beautiful!



I decided that I would not bolt the 60 to leaf springs, so I gave Drew (Goat1) from PolyPerformance a call. A 3-link w/panhard bar is now in order.

TRD and Beat95YJ helped me out in the coilover department: 2" 14's
The spring rate is 150/350



Off to San Luis Obispo!!!

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,071 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Before taking it to PolyPerformance, some buddies and I did some R&P work:
swap rear detroit w/spool
install detroit from rear and 4.88's in front end




While building the front end, I got some snail tracks on my shaft.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,071 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
After my jeep collected a few spiders sitting outside PolyPerformance, it was time to get started!

I wanted to get a couple of inches of wheelbase out of the front, but clearance issues left my wheelbase very close to what it was -- 101". We mocked up the front end at full bump and saw that the limiting factor was the pittman arm hitting the diff cover. A front wheelbase stretch would involve a total redo of my steering... no thanks. Later on we found that it also comes very close to the tie rod.

Out with the old!



In with the NEW

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,071 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Due to the size of the front diff, length of the shocks, and ride height I was shooting for we ended up with 5" of up travel. Here is the front end mocked up at close to static ride height.



Drew was able to use off the shelf link brackets for everything except the frame side panhard bar mount.

I got my 60 out of an 88 F-350. The diff is very close to the driver side inner C, leaving little room for a lower link mount. Heres what Drew came up with. He notched one of the off-the-shelf lower link brackets and stradled the stock leaf spring perch with it.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
102 Posts
COOL. I would like to see more pics of your jeep, I am planning on running the 40" MTR's also, want to kinda get a feel you what it will look like.

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,071 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
We had to cut the exhaust to clear the passenger lower/upper link mounts.



A part of the driver side upper link mount tacked in place...



Driver side upper link mount fully welded. So beautiful.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,071 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
The lower links are 2" 1/4 wall DOM

I didn't take many pics the next day, but here are some from the end of the day.

Here it is with a 1.5" DOM - 1/4" wall tie rod (I only sustained minor injuries drilling out the knuckles). I was able to reuse my drag link (yay).

The lower and upper link brackets are tacked on, and frame side upper/lower link brackets are welded on.

The 60 is fully dressed
BTW, all you custom axle people, don't forget to put the dust shield on your outers!



Some close-ups...



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,071 Posts
Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
The "end" of a saga is drawing near. I'm closer than ever to actually wheeling.

The 3-link was finished up during the week by Drew and Trenton, I got to disassemble, paint, and reassemble. I also relocated many of the items that used to mount on the inner fender well.

The main problem that we faced was the front driveshaft clearance. The front driveshaft hits the driver side lower link bracket. I will build a 2-piece shaft, but for now I'm going to run an unusually small 1-3/8" OD shaft.

A new skid plate with integrated front driveshaft pillow block bearing is in order, I'll keep you all updated.

My rig has over 6" more vertical down travel in the front than the rear... an insanely overkill amount of travel. I'll eventually post some obligitory pouser forklift articulation pics.

The pics were taken before the front axle was centered and the drag link bent to prevent steering binding at full extension.

I took it for a test drive and it handles nicely on the road, even stops quickly. The best part of the street handling is no more shackle reversal 2-foot nose dive!

AFTER (I think that its a little taller in the front now, but pretty close)
I ended up lowering the front 2.5" from where it is in this pic. This shows 7.5" of up travel


The Goods.







Some damn sexy dubs





My rig is back at home now, and I have some finishing work to do. New brake lines and new skid plate w/2 piece driveshaft will be necessary before I can take it anywhere hard. Its getting closer!!!

I'm very happy with how clean this turned out, the guys at Poly did a great job! Can't wait to explode my t-case!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
125 Posts
Why not solve the steering issues with full hydro?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,071 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I want it to stay streetable, and probably the biggest reason is $$$
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,071 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
To help from bottoming out. I'm at 105 lb/in until the slider contacts the middle nuts, then I have 350 lb/in
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,071 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
The lowers are 30", a little short but thats what fit. The ride height in the pics is a few inches taller than where it ended up after some adjusting.
 

·
Read Only
Joined
·
1,334 Posts
I see the same issue with clearance on the lower drivers arm link with my 60. On that bracket did he actually notch the cast and cut it out so the link is mounted fully on the tube, or is the bracket notched and stitched into the cast?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,071 Posts
Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
The bracket is notched and stitched to the cast. One side of the bracket is fully welded to the tube, all the rest is welded to the cast.



Heres where I'm planning on running as far as ride height:

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,436 Posts
I think it looks nice, however, I also welded my lower control arm bracket half on the tube and half on the casting, just like you did, and it didn't work for me, the welds kept cracking, so I welded a whole bunch of gussets on the tube and it held so far. I wouldn't trust welding cast, unless done professionally (preheat, right welding rod, pin...).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
413 Posts
BlueAngel said:
I think it looks nice, however, I also welded my lower control arm bracket half on the tube and half on the casting, just like you did, and it didn't work for me, the welds kept cracking, so I welded a whole bunch of gussets on the tube and it held so far. I wouldn't trust welding cast, unless done professionally (preheat, right welding rod, pin...).
I am guessing thats why he had it "done professionally".
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,610 Posts
I got a FF D60 for my YJ and i wonder where can i get the brake lines conversion?
 
1 - 20 of 66 Posts
Top