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Discussion Starter #21
Got home this evening from being out of town down in Monterey on work and figured I'd post some updates on the build.

Huge development! The jeep has a new powerplant! A Chevy 350 Engine was purchased and arrived this week from gearhead engines.

 

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Discussion Starter #22
Some sweet headman headers were stumbled upon by my dad on craigslist for the 350 this last week. We snagged them for $30. Seemed like too good of a steal to pass up.. even considering that they might not clear:D





Advanced adaptors Engine mounts were purchased and delivered this week for the Chevy 350 mated with the TJ frame. The Tj chassis is proving to make finding parts a breeze.



Going to try and drop the engine in this weekend, but we will see how far I actually make it:)
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Okay, so I got my motor mounts tack welded in place this morning.. I'd like to hear some input on engine and powertrain angles? Please feel free to chime in with any and all knowledge! This is my first build as well as my first engine swap and I'm open to hearing comments and suggestions.
 

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On mounting the engine is a balancing game between the hood, firewall, fan/radiator clearance, steering shaft, exhaust manifold clearance, transmission tunnel clearance, transfer case yoke to diff angles and once you get all that figured out try and get 3-5* on your intake manifold (but make sure you account for the any slope of the shop floor):D:D:D. Just don't weld everything solid until you get everything else figured out. I had everything tack welded really well, and then once I had everything where it need to be I stripped it down to the frame and welded everything solid.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
On mounting the engine is a balancing game between the hood, firewall, fan/radiator clearance, steering shaft, exhaust manifold clearance, transmission tunnel clearance, transfer case yoke to diff angles and once you get all that figured out try and get 3-5* on your intake manifold (but make sure you account for the any slope of the shop floor):D:D:D. Just don't weld everything solid until you get everything else figured out. I had everything tack welded really well, and then once I had everything where it need to be I stripped it down to the frame and welded everything solid.
The 3-5* is what I was curious about. I'm planning on performing a stretch in the door and between the cowl and front fenders but I want to wait until I have the engine and such placed and mocked up and let that determine my exact stretch lengths. Then I'll stretch the body, and weld everything up for good. Thanks again for the detailed response, it's exactly what a beginner such as myself was looking for..Also I just wanted to say I really enjoyed reading/looking through pictures of your build. Excellent work.
 

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Look at your manifold. See if it has a lean on it where the carb/efi mounts. Mine did. So I put the manifold on and then made it level at the mount which leaned it back 3* but I did that without the trans on. I ended up added a 2" drop at the tcase cross member ( that was confusing. I made the mount for the carb level --- both ways and then adjusted placement like Rod said.
 

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The 3-5* is what I was curious about. I'm planning on performing a stretch in the door and between the cowl and front fenders but I want to wait until I have the engine and such placed and mocked up and let that determine my exact stretch lengths. Then I'll stretch the body, and weld everything up for good. Thanks again for the detailed response, it's exactly what a beginner such as myself was looking for..Also I just wanted to say I really enjoyed reading/looking through pictures of your build. Excellent work.
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #29 (Edited)
So the Power-train is finally sitting in the chassis, and I'm really digging it:D I still need to come up with a modified mounting method for the transmission/Tcase, as the Novak mount that I am using doesn't fit flush with the belly pan. I'll most likely weld in a little block to fill the gap between the belly pan and trans mount. It looks like I might also need to make a cutout in the belly pan for the driveshafts to mate up to the tcase, but other than those two things everything looks to work really nicely.
Another update is that I went ahead and fixed the finish on the frame. I had a couple of spots that rust was starting to form along the bottom of the frame and near the belly pan. I ground the rust away until I hit bare metal and then refinished the entire frame with por15. I then hit it all with Eastwood's chassis primer, and finished it with Eastwood's Chassis black topcoat. I personally think it came out nicely.

 

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looks good and very clean!
 

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Why not try for a much flatter belly with more clearance?
 

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Discussion Starter #33 (Edited)
Why not try for a much flatter belly with more clearance?
You know its an obvious suggestion but the more I've sat around thinking about it this evening I think you might be right man. The original thought was that the tj belly pan would give me some rock protection while also keeping my axle to tcase shaft angles low..but on the other hand my issue would be solved with just a basic cross member trans support and would give me more clearance at the same time.

Just thought I'd bring up a story from this past week as well..I had posted my old Dana 18 Tcase on Craigslist along with my old Novak tcase to tranny adaptor and I got to talking with the guy who purchased my items and he brought up your name, "Mieser." He had a 60's cj5 that he cracked the frame on and said you were a real cool guy who he grabbed some frame blueprints from, and was on his way to have a shop start the work on a new frame for him. Small world.
 

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You know its an obvious suggestion but the more I've sat around thinking about it this evening I think you might be right man. The original thought was that the tj belly pan would give me some rock protection while also keeping my axle to tcase shaft angles low..but on the other hand my issue would be solved with just a basic cross member trans support and would give me more clearance at the same time.

Just thought I'd bring up a story from this past week as well..I had posted my old Dana 18 Tcase on Craigslist along with my old Novak tcase to tranny adaptor and I got to talking with the guy who purchased my items and he brought up your name, "Mieser." He had a 60's cj5 that he cracked the frame on and said you were a real cool guy who he grabbed some frame blueprints from, and was on his way to have a shop start the work on a new frame for him. Small world.
Too funny! Thanks for the story.
 

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Hey man most Tj frames rot from the inside out. My original frame did. When I did my driveway frame swap I did the same preps as you(I used Chassis Saver instead) but I also used 3 cans of Eastwoods internal frame coat too. That stuff is the shit and for $20 a can you really can't go wrong.

Unless you've already coated the inside of the frame with something?
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Hey man most Tj frames rot from the inside out. My original frame did. When I did my driveway frame swap I did the same preps as you(I used Chassis Saver instead) but I also used 3 cans of Eastwoods internal frame coat too. That stuff is the shit and for $20 a can you really can't go wrong.

Unless you've already coated the inside of the frame with something?
I appreciate the suggestion! I've been trying to figure out which product I wanted to go with to coat the inside of the frame. Glad to hear that you did a Tj with the eastwood stuff and it worked out well. Is 3 cans overkill, or will I be happy that I ordered that number?
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Drove up to Oregon and picked up a little something from Ron Fitzpatrick back towards the start of September:D


Cut out the tank



And Finally..the crime was committed. The 8" stretch


 

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I appreciate the suggestion! I've been trying to figure out which product I wanted to go with to coat the inside of the frame. Glad to hear that you did a Tj with the eastwood stuff and it worked out well. Is 3 cans overkill, or will I be happy that I ordered that number?
You'll be good with 3 cans. It takes about half a can to figure out how to get the spray even. I'd put at least 1 can in each frame rail. The stuff works good but have a towel ready to clean off all the coating that drips outta all the holes.

Sorry it took so long for the reply.
 

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Discussion Starter #39 (Edited)
More progress on the stretch today! The tub is at Hot Rod's in Roseville for the 8" stretch and let me just say Rod is an awesome guy! I'd recommend him to anyone in the area. He's a perfectionist with the work he does (perfect trait for the man you have doing your body work!)
 

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I am all ears on this build....I so wanna do one of these in the near future...collecting the old stuff first...

Thanks for posting on here....

MikeC
 
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