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Discussion Starter #81
Disconnected the drag link from the pitman arm this evening and this enabled me to once again turn the tires..Which points towards the steering box having been the problem. It feels like it is seized up if you try to turn the pitman arm. Any ideas out there as to what is causing the steering box to suddenly seize up like this? Would not having enough fluids cause this?
 

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I like the look of the cage, I have seen many cages with the front top window bar with a bend in it. What does it serve that way?

Skip
 

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Discussion Starter #83
Thanks Skip! I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.

The bend in the upper windshield is purely esthetic. No function over form there to the best of my knowledge. I saw the design on svaras second build's cage, and liked the look so I did the same to my cage. I'll add a dash support across and then run two smaller diameter tubes upwards just like Sebastian did.
Alot of the guys on here probably don't like the look or the fact that an unnecessary bend compromises the integrity of the cage, but with the added support I'm sure it'll be structurally sound..I mean I'm betting my life on it
 

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Discussion Starter #84
I spent some time rebuilding my Warn model 8274 and thought I'd share a bit about my experience. I knew nothing about these winches, but with the help of the below five sources was able to complete the rebuild fairly trouble free:

Warn 8274 rebuild
My WARN 8274 rebuild part 1..... | IH8MUD Forum
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WXLnAqgRpFE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AetCZJxvNdU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kPISmebrA_Q

The whole rebuild is something anyone who played with legos as a kid can complete. Upon inspecting my winch I decided to put a lower housing rebuild kit and a brake rebuild kit from amazon on the unit. I also have upgraded my motor to the 9.5xp. The 9.5xp is literally a bolt on unit, nothing more to it than that. The motor came with a gasket and a washer as well..I had to make an educated guess as to where the washer went...if anybody knows where it is intended by warn to go please chime in below:)

Robot Check

Winch before I tore into it:





As you can see in the second picture it looks like the tabs that connect the upper and lower housing broke off at some point and were welded back onto the housing..Not sure what would have caused this to happen:eek: The only grief it caused me was that the upper and lower housings were not a perfect machined fit when retightening the upper housing to the lower (It might be that these upper and lower housings are never quite a perfect fit) so I made sure I got the drum lockplate into it's slot in the upper housing and called it close enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #85
After I had the winch apart I went to work scrupping it with a wire wheel attached to a drill, and my Q-tips and tooth-picks.

The Drum before and after I had taken a wire wheel to it. After I cleaned it I coated it in POR-15. I chose the POR because it goes on rock sold and smooth like glass. I wanted a smooth finish like that for the 5/16" x 125' Master Pull synthetic rope line to attach to.


 

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Discussion Starter #86
The housing of the winch was coated in Eastwoods chassis black paint. I decided on leaving the brake components wire wheeled and cleaned because I kept seing people paint their brake components only to see them get scratched up by the brake pawl the first time they used their winch:shaking:



I then mounted the winch onto my frame using a Warn winch mount..Yes the winch probably inhibits air flow to the radiator meiser:D

 

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Discussion Starter #87
I should also mention that I have some spare parts after the rebuild..If anyone would like the old motor or some brake bearing balls if you are missing or lost some of yours (those suckers jump out at you as soon as the brake C clip comes off) you are welcome to them. I'd just ask that you pay for the shipping.
 

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How much oil and what kind goes in these?

Skip
 

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Discussion Starter #90
How much oil and what kind goes in these?

Skip
Lubrication: 6 oz. SAE 30 (non-detergent)

This looks like hardly any oil when you put it in the case, but it just needs enough for the lower gear to pick it up and smear it between the gears. Too much and it will begin to leak through the drum seal. The bushings for the drum won't benefit from the oil, in fact the support side of the drum receives no lube at all. Adding another 6 oz probably won't be a problem, but might make a mess. If you have winch rope, it could discolor it if it leaks through the drum onto it.
 

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How do ya'll go about sourcing a TJ frame? axles? etc? I've been to our local wrecking yards and they are so picked over, there is not much there. BTW...I really like this project . So...subscribed!
 

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Discussion Starter #92
How do ya'll go about sourcing a TJ frame? axles? etc? I've been to our local wrecking yards and they are so picked over, there is not much there. BTW...I really like this project . So...subscribed!
I found mine on craigslist. A local shop here in Northern California called predator off road had posted it and sold it to me. One of their customers was ditching his frame and axles in order to build a tube tube chassis for his rig. I had a CHP buddy run the frame numbers off of it to make sure nothing was stolen and all was good.

I know another guy on here got his frame from Daveys jeeps.
*Linked his thread below:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/2010218-i-am-14-just-bought-willys.html
 

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Thanks for the input! I guess it makes a big difference of how popular an activity is in an area. I'll have to broaden my search.
 

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Discussion Starter #94
PhotoBucket hosting issues removed the photos from this build thread. If you'd like to see some of the progress on my build or follow along as I finish it up I have created an instagram account under the username "OG_4X4" feel free to follow!
 

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PhotoBucket hosting issues removed the photos from this build thread. If you'd like to see some of the progress on my build or follow along as I finish it up I have created an instagram account under the username "OG_4X4" feel free to follow!
Nope, you just need to download the add-on for firefox or chrome that let's you see the pics anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #96
wvjeepguy81 you rock..problem solved, thanks for enlightening me.

Well then, I'll just post one of the most recent pics of the build here.

 

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Discussion Starter #97
Looking to get input from those who have been there and done that..Should I use Raptor liner in the engine bay and undercarriage or go with some other sort of product/undercoating?
 

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Looking to get input from those who have been there and done that..Should I use Raptor liner in the engine bay and undercarriage or go with some other sort of product/undercoating?
My cousin sprayed raptor liner in the bed of his Toyota pickup. Overall he said application was easy but he was not impressed with the finished product. He said it seemed almost brittle. Like if you dropped something heavy in the bed and it made a dent, the raptor liner wouldn't move with the metal and ultimately crack or chip.

Maybe his technique or application process contributed in some way. I have been looking at Monstaliner for the inside and underneath of my tub. Still a bit more fab work before I'm ready for it tho.
 

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I sprayed Raptor on the inside of my GPW tub approx. 5 yrs. ago, a very easy product to use, lots of stink for about 3 days while curing, but it came out with a perfect uniform hard texture.............
5 years later... my mufflers were about 1" from the bottom of the tub on both sides, the Raptor lifted and flaked off in the shape of the mufflers, and I'm sure with a putty knife I could just flake a few more inches off before I would find good adhesion. Around my cage mounts where there is a little flex the Raptor has cracked and lifted. This was a brand new reproduction tub, no rust, I prepped the tub with brake clean and a scotch bright. I do use the rig a lot, Rubicon 15+ times a year. My opinion, have your tub Line-X'd or Rhino Lined and never have to deal with it again. I'm going to have my new project Rhino-Lined in 2 weeks. The Line-X has a hard textured feel. The Rhino-Liner has a softer rubber texture which I like. I have emailed for quotes but no replies yet. My truck was $400.00 to have Line-X'd. Tim
 
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