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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I searched and found a couple of threads with some interesting anchoring info, but no discussion of marine anchors. I'm no sailor, but I know that boat anchors come in a half-dozen configuratons for rocky, sandy, muddy bottoms etc. and in any size up to and beyond the size of your rig.

Somebody must have tried this sometime. Does it work sometimes? Ever? Is a boat anchor free better than a pullpal for $$? :confused:
 

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Fistful of Boomstick
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i am not sure if i would use a "boat" anchor because of the wieght. some of the flat metal "mud" anchors might work but not sure on rating.

Now here is a proven system i have used for when there is no anchor points available. it is a modified rappel anchor and will not have a catastrophic failure if it does fail.
it consists of 1 LARGE chain(with openings big enuf to run the rebar threw) around 6-8 feet long, 3 pieces of rebar 3-4 feet long, a clevis and a hammer to drive the rebar. but a rock can be used instead. it takes up little space in a rig and works very well.
Drive the rebar at a 30-40 degree angle thew the chain,leaving a 1 foot section above ground. pull the chain tight and around 1-2 feet away drive another piece of rebar threw the chain. repeat with the last piece. attach your clevis to the end or your winch hook. wieght the line as you usualy would.
It takes a LOT of force to pull these out horizontaly :eek: put can be pulled out verticaly by hand.
 

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Fistful of Boomstick
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Todd W said:
What size rebar? I`m guessing the size of a finger since it has to fit in the chain links?
correct.
you can use larger bar but the problem you run into is trying to find chain with big enuf holes to run it threw.
the reason i say chain and rebar is most people dont know rope and knots well enuf to use some Amsteel/sythetic line and tie directional figure 8 knots :D

if you know how to tie knots you can use any sized bar you want.


also the reason for 3 posts in the ground is all rappel points should be redundant. you "might" be able to get away with one good/big bar but i ALWAYS work in redundant systems
 

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usmcdoc14 said:
correct.
you can use larger bar but the problem you run into is trying to find chain with big enuf holes to run it threw.
the reason i say chain and rebar is most people dont know rope and knots well enuf to use some Amsteel/sythetic line and tie directional figure 8 knots :D

if you know how to tie knots you can use any sized bar you want.


also the reason for 3 posts in the ground is all rappel points should be redundant. you "might" be able to get away with one good/big bar but i ALWAYS work in redundant systems
Awesome, I was working on a single bar system with 2 "spades" one on the bottom, and one half way to the top of the dirt. Ive had the idea from houseboating for YEARS and seeing what wind can do to a houseobat with a 3ft steak in the ground with only 5" above ground to tie it off. I thought the spades would help a TON with pulling it sideways out of the ground. I`ll have to give the 3 re-bar anchro a try for 4wheeling..

Have you ever used it in SAND? To mee since the rebar isnt to thick it seems like it would pull sideways even with 3 of them in "sand sand" (not dirt just sand like at a river, lake or ocean..)?

Also, do you have pictures of the knot setup I`m interested in the look so I don't have to get out my knot book I haven't had to tie knots in forever.

Thanks!
-Todd
 

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sand i always burry a deadman. usualy a spare tire. if its hardpack sand it might work.

you would tie 2 figure 8 loops one at each end of the rope and slip one over the first rod
(figure 8 loop)

then make a inline firgure further down (making sure its in the correct pull direction) and hammer the next rod threw that one after pulling the line tight
(inline figure 8)


repeat for the last one
HOW TO TIE

some 1/2 inch Amsteel would last forever in this aplication
 

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That's actually a really cool way to anchor and any ******* can get ahold of some chain and rebar :smokin:



While a boat anchor MIGHT work, I'm not sure they're really rated for this.. uh.. application :D
 

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Also, if you were in sand and wanted more strength, you could weld on some 3/16ths plate in the shape of a triangle near the top of the rebar to give it extra holding power.
 

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ZJim said:
Also, if you were in sand and wanted more strength, you could weld on some 3/16ths plate in the shape of a triangle near the top of the rebar to give it extra holding power.
That's what I said about 3 posts up :D
 

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usmcdoc14 said:
sand i always burry a deadman. usualy a spare tire. if its hardpack sand it might work.

you would tie 2 figure 8 loops one at each end of the rope and slip one over the first rod
(figure 8 loop)

then make a inline firgure further down (making sure its in the correct pull direction) and hammer the next rod threw that one after pulling the line tight
(inline figure 8)


repeat for the last one
HOW TO TIE

some 1/2 inch Amsteel would last forever in this aplication

That second one is not a true fig 8 :flipoff2: - whats the other name for that- i know ive heard it called a few things other than an inline 8

And just an add on, if you do use rope and stakes dont plan on ever getting those knots out. Ive loaded a fig 8 from a good climbing fall and they like to tighten up nice
 

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DozerDan said:
That second one is not a true fig 8 :flipoff2: - whats the other name for that- i know ive heard it called a few things other than an inline 8

And just an add on, if you do use rope and stakes dont plan on ever getting those knots out. Ive loaded a fig 8 from a good climbing fall and they like to tighten up nice
it says inline figure 8 loop above it :flipoff2: thats what you tie in the middle of a line to hold load :D

and i have never had a problem untieing a properly tied figure 8 loop or inline figure 8 loop and have tied them under some serious wieght :p
 

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Using the kind of rope that you would use for this application, a figure 8 would untie without too much persuasion. In climbing, you use dynamic rope that makes the knot a bear to untie once you fall on it, especially if you're pumped. Ask me how I know... :D
 

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Izeloz said:
Using the kind of rope that you would use for this application, a figure 8 would untie without too much persuasion. In climbing, you use dynamic rope that makes the knot a bear to untie once you fall on it, especially if you're pumped. Ask me how I know... :D
AMsteel blue is about as "static" of a static line as you can get :laughing:
 

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elacruze said:
I searched and found a couple of threads with some interesting anchoring info
what did you search under? I searched and not much came up..
 

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figure 8 knots are pretty qucik and easy to tie once you learn how. its the knot used the most in rock climbing. i have taken a couple good falls and always been able to untie the knot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
youngladdy said:
what did you search under? I searched and not much came up..
Winch anchor, anchors, marine anchor, boat anchor...

Not much came up. Mostly discussion about straps, chains, rocks-preferred methods of sticking to something solid which is already there.
 

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DozerDan said:
That second one is not a true fig 8 :flipoff2: - whats the other name for that- i know ive heard it called a few things other than an inline 8
Thay are sometimes called "directional 8's" as well. You need to make sure the knot is tied so the force is from the working end of the rope.

When setting up a picket system (usmcdoc14's first image) it is very important to get equal tension to each stake. The strength of the system relies on the sum of the anchors. When one is overstressed, the system may fail prematurely
-Jon
 

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alright thanks, I will try again using those.

elacruze said:
Winch anchor, anchors, marine anchor, boat anchor...

Not much came up. Mostly discussion about straps, chains, rocks-preferred methods of sticking to something solid which is already there.
 
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