Pirate 4x4 banner

1 - 20 of 38 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
838 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Winter Project - Raptor SAS

Its -20 here in Fairbanks. It warmed up from -40. I decided to build another crawler. I didn't post the last two here, but this is my start.

Its got wraith axles, RC4WD 2 spd dig tranny, Novak 45 turn motor, and a traxxis radio.









 

·
Registered
Joined
·
191 Posts
ha awesome i was totaly thinking the same thing when i saw that raptor rc at walmart the other day perfect crawler body just didnt have it in me to spend hundred bucks for just a body looks bad ass man good luck with the build
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
838 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
When I'm not doing this, I'm a pilot and building my actual truck. My wife bought the truck for Christmas because it is so much cheaper than my other two hobbies. Otherwise, I would not have dropped the coin for just a body.

I made a little jig to keep the tabs lined up. It worked freakin' awesome. UNTIL I had to remove the 1/8 rod. It was just tight enough that it wouldn't let go. I had to cut it into pieces to get it apart.



Then I got motor and transmission installed. Because I'm going to swap to a 18.5T brushless, I want to have 2WD (rear drive) rather than a front dig. I want this to be able to crawl, then take off and go. We'll see how that works out.




I got the front axle installed. It sits a little too far back for my liking, but it is perfect at full stuff.





I added a little bit to the chasis. I'm not going to spend a ton of time making the inside fancy. I will make it strong. The bumpers and bed cage will be much detailed.

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
838 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I did make the link mount myself. Its 16ga steel. Unfortunately, I brazed the tabs too narrow. I had to bend them out to fit the links in. For now, I just using some stock Wraith links. I'll be upgrading those later.

Because the plastic links are nonadjustable, placement of mounts is critical. As I stated last post, I did not like the location of the front wheels. I also had way too much caster. I decided to build a new bracket and move it forward. It moved the axle slightly forward, took out some caster (back to negative numbers again), and the links fit without having to be bent.

I took a picture of the new jig. This one worked much better, other than the burned nylock.

I don't know about down south, but the only brake line I can find up here has some new coating on it to keep it from rusting. That stuff sucks. I have to use an abrasive wheel to get it off. Otherwise, I contaminates the joints, prevents good adhesion, and is probably toxic to breathe. Then, it looks like crap once its brazed.



 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
838 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Small update - No pics.

I was thinking that my front shocks would not have enough travel. I have the Axial 72-103 aluminum shocks. In addition to the short travel, the valving to super stiff. I tried different weight oils, but was not satisfied.

I stopped by the local shop in town and picked up a set of HPI Racing 77-117 aluminum shocks. They appear to have the same valve discs that the Axial shocks do. A quick check showed that they do.

Because I am going to run trailing arms in the rear and will have some substantial leverage over the shock, I surmise that I'll need some tight valving (heavier oil).

I only want to run one weight oil so I don't get mixed up or have issues later. SO...I drilled out some valve discs for the HPI shocks.

3 1/16 holes seems perfect for the shock angle the truck weight. I'll know more once its assembled and I can test it.

I did get the front shock towers built today. They're not on the truck yet. I can't do anything with the rear until the get the RC4WD trialing arms.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
838 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Here's today's progress. Not too much, but I'm going out again when my daughter goes to bed.





 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
838 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Here is an update.

I added some support to the front shock towers. I'm not super happy with my ability to drill holes in a straight line, but it'll be covered by the body.

Here is a sample of how the bed cage will look. I need to come up with two things: mounting at the top and mounting at the bottom. It has to be able to unbolt, otherwise the body will be permanent. I made some really small and really detailed brackets for the rear bumper mount, but were too small to braze. The damn-near melted.

I am not sure how to make it mount once it goes through the back of the cab. That's what I'll be working on for the next few days. My RC4WD trailing arms should be here tomorrow.



 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
838 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I'm taking some advise from someone at RCCrawler.com. I'm going to put a Summit 2 speed trans in it later in the build. I'm not that confident in the R2 that's in it now.

So here is my update. I got the RC4WD trailing arms in. I am very happy with them. They're really just CNC'd aluminum, but they look great.

I had to cut out the rear sub-frame. When I originally built it, I guess on the dimensions. I guessed wrong.

I got the rear sub-frame out and replaced. The truck is now a roller. I'm going to do everything first, then the motor/trans last. I know if I can drive it, I'll never finish the rest.

The biggest issue that I see is going to be the shock tuning. I think that I am at a good starting point. I expect that I'll need stiffer springs. If I have to replace those, I'll revisit valving/oil weight.







 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
838 Posts
Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Well, I lied. I did put the motor and trans in today. I got most of the electronics installed. I also got the rear cage tied into the rear bumper. Now all I have to do is finish the cage.

Let me say again how much I HATE Napa break line because it has the crappy coating on it. It makes the whole cage look like shit. I'm gong to sand blast it before paint.

TO DO LIST:
Stiffer rear springs, then revisit valving
Build and mount servo brackets for DIG and 2SP
Finish bed cage
Find tires that fit better
Buy Mayhem Monster re-machines
Build or Buy rear drive shaft

18.5T Novak Timbuck 2 Motor/ESC
Summit 2spd




 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,455 Posts
I don't know how the heck you guys deal with those temps. It was just under -20* here a few days ago and it sucked working outside all day.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
838 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
I don't know how the heck you guys deal with those temps. It was just under -20* here a few days ago and it sucked working outside all day.
I am starting to wonder how I deal with it. Its -48F today. This sucks. My heating bill may exceed my mortgage.

Here is an update:
The Rock Crushers were too tall and kept grabbing the fenders. The springs on the HPI shocks were way too soft. The body roll was out of control. I still have not built a rear drive shaft. I drove it around with front wheel drive. I definitely need a sensor-based burshless motor. The slow is great, but the go is not enough.

I placed the order for the Mayhem wheels and found some Spooky Krawlers. I doubt Spooky Krawlers work great, but they don't look too bad. In the mean time, I have a set of Mud Slingers. I hate Mud Slingers

Here are some updated photos. Here is with all of the weight on the springs. Its sitting way below ride height.



Here is the Mud Slinger stuffed in the fender.



I had to use a 1 quart can to get it back to ride height. The front still sits a bit low.

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
838 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
I got bored today and built some rock sliders. I am not sure if they really "fit" the look of the truck. I think that they turned out fine, but I don't know if I'll install them.

I took a recommendation and started building a real light bar. Here is what I came up with, but with more uprights. I know that they need to be trimmed a bit. The whole family is sleeping, so I have the keep the noise to a minimum.

What do you guys think of either the sliders or light bar? I've been looking at the small circuit board that runs the LEDs. Its almost like its own little schematic. I just don't know what the voltage would be. I guess they'll either be dim or blow-up.

I don't know the first thing about RC lighting. I was just going to find a small external switch and additional battery pack to run the lights.

While you guys read this and chime in, I'll be reading until my eyes bleed to learn about lighting.





 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
838 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Thanks, I appreciate it. Its actually a New Bright 1:6 scale Ford Raptor. It measures out to be closer to 1:8 scale. I keep the updates coming
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
838 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
I finally got the Spooky Krawlers today. They're rather unimpressive. That being said, they look way better than the Mud Slingers. The tires feel very stiff. We'll see if they 'break-in'. The rubber seems to be sticky. Its hard to explain. The tread is very shallow. Like I said before, they are still better than the 'slingers.







The tires, being the perfect size, show how soft the suspension is. I cant even drive it yet. I tried, but it just rolls over onto the tires. I tried to use a set of Axial springs that I had, but they're only marginally better. The HPI springs have shipped, but won't be here for about a week.



I decided to add the rock sliders to help protect the body

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,457 Posts
Its -20 here in Fairbanks. It warmed up from -40. I decided to build another crawler.
Fuck! And to think that when it dips below 40℉ I cut back on the outside and shop projects...

Sweet build, though!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
838 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Now we're having a freakin' heat wave...its -4F
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,245 Posts
I'll have to bring my AX10 and check this thing out in a few when I get back to AK. Any new progress to share?
 
1 - 20 of 38 Posts
Top