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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well Sorry it took so long to get this posted.

What I did on mine was to install it with out removing the entire housing. It would have been easyier if I had but would also have taken longer.

1. Put jack stands under the frame to support front of EB.

2. Support axel with floor jack under housing.

3. Remove pass side tire, hub, spindle, brake asembly, Steering, then remove axel and clean out tube. ( I used a piece of 3/8 rod with a 1 1/2 washer welded to the end and just slid it in the tube and scraped out the sand/mud/dirt I found) Then stuff a rag into the axel tube all the way to the housing.

4. Remove pass side coil spring and C-bushing retainer cap. I only did this on the pass side as stated above. If you are removing the entire D44 then repeat for drivers side and proceed.

5. Clean all paint off pass tube, I used a flapper disc and 4" grinder.

6. Measure 4 1/2" from pass side of center housing at the location were the tube presses in. Use a pipe cutter ti scribe a line around the tube at this piont then using a 4" grinder with a cutt off wheel cut the tube in half. This step helps if you have someone to help catch the outer axel housing as you cut it. Once done their is no turning back.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
And
 

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Discussion Starter #3
7. Clean ends of tubes and chamfer the ends of the tube as well. Drill two 1/2" holes 90* from each other all the way through the tube ( end up with 4 holes) 2 1/2" out from housing or 2" in from end of tube. These will be used to weld in the stub tube. Hone inside of tubes using a cylinder hone to clean out tube and to size it for the spud tube. It goes real easy just give it time. You want the tube to slide into the inner housing tube snug and in to the outer with out binding. So the outer will take a little more then inside. You want the spud to slide into the inner tube 4" and once it can do this pull out spud and place the o-ring on the grove at the end of the sput tube and reinstall.

8. Very inportant!!!!! Remove rag you slid into tube.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
9. Make the four bung welds and let cool.

10. Put hub on on inboard tube and slide it on untill it is flush with outer tube edge.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
11. Tack the hub on to the tube in two locations AFTER you make sure the 1/4" zurk hole is pionting up.

12. Now go to the outer tube. You will need to drill and tap for a 1/4-28 rurk fitting about 2 1/2" in from end of tube and on top of tube. Install the o-ring into the cap and slide it on the tube as far as it will go. Then slide on ONE of the bronze washers and then the rotor.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
13. Next slide the outer axel tube over the exposed spud shaft untill the two halfs butt together. At this piont you will have a second bronze washer that should NOT yet be installed.

14. Slide the rotor all the way inside the coller that you tacked on in step 11.

15. Holding the rotor tight to the coller place four tack welds in the recess grove between the rotor and the outer tube. Keep these welds small!

Sorry no pic.

16. Remove out board tube from spud sleeve. Cover bronze washer and cap so you don't get any splater on themand weld the rotor on to the tube in two steps. Weld one side then the other side letting it cool between welds.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
17. Now weld only the side of the hub that is tward the center housing.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
18. Now that the outer axel has cooled remove what ever you used to cover the bronze washer and slide it to the rotor. It needs to fit tight up to the rotor and if it does not then just grind what ever portion of the weld is in the way. Repeat ont othe side of rotor using the second washer.

19. You are now ready to assemble the two halfs but first cote every thing with lots of grease and install the third o-ring on the exposed end of the spud sleeve. Now slide on the second washer and press it into the hub which is on the inner side then slide the outer assemble into place. Install your 6 bolts and washers and tighten. Then install the two zerk fittings and grease.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
20. It is time to paint and re-install all your axel parts you took off to start this project and try it out.

21. The axel will twist 1/2" to 3/4" so you need to make sure your brake line will move free of bind. I recomend using a flex line at this piont. I don't have any pics of this because I have not done this to mine yet. My brake line was long and had enough room to move, but not the best set up.

22. This kit is from BC Broncos and I highly recomend it to any one who is looking for that extra flex. The kit is made of Crommolly and it is some of the nicest pieces I have seen machined up.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I have not yet gotten a chance to test to much. But what I noticed right away is now my bronco flexes 50/50 front to back. Before it would flex real easy in the back and that would cause the front to then flex. Now it is at the same time. I also had to trin the front inner fender lip were the "wheel well" meets the fender support.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Front
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Rear.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
This might help show the shocks working
 

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Discussion Starter #14
And
 

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Discussion Starter #15
From under.
 

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awesome rig i was wondering who fabed up your entended arms? and how much longer than stock are they? I have a 79 im building and want maximum flex and cant decide between extended or wristed. Let me know who fabed them or who makes them.
thanks fordlover
 

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I think you are convincing me of going this way too!

Do you have a before and after pic to compare it all? Is this the $400 kit that Bcbroncos sells?

Adam
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Fordlover~ I built the arms and they are12-13" longer. Just in case you want to know I will not build these for any one. Sorry

Adam~ Yes it is the BC-kit under 400. I do have some shots of before some were. But what sold me after the install was I never knew you could compress the spring so every coil sat on top of each other and the other side pealed out of the lower bucket! I get up to SR quite a bit I will look you up next time so we can meet.
 

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Hey Rokcrln,

That coild compressions sounds like *just* what I want! Next week when my 5.5" BC broncos coils come, I am swapping them in for my James duff 3.5" coils. Duff was good, jut way to compression unfriendly.

That's cool, I am going to order a WAH kit.

I am doing this to a bronco 2, so the weight is a little bit different, but with the 351 in there things are very close, according to the BC bronco people.

next time you get up to SR, let me know in advance. We'll go to cow together! You'll see my bronco 2s.

What did you do for the panhard bar to allow it to flex so much? I think that will be my next step.

You have piqued my interest!

Adam
 
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