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Discussion Starter #1
my tow rig... a 1985 6.9 diesel...

it is loosing coolant, and over heating...

so for the sack of time i take it to a buddy who works on diesels alot..

he does a pressure test and cant find the leak...

when it does over heat its blowin out like mad... fan throws it everywhere.....


could there be a leak once the engine achieves a certain temp? we are gonna run it get it hot and put pressire to it again...


any suggetions as to what to look for or how to find this leak?


there is no antifreeze in my oil, i think that rules cavitation out...

and if the head was puttin antifreeze on the piston......... well..... enough said it aint that either...


any ideas?
 

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I remember reading something about a coolant problem on older Ford/Diesel's. A special additive needed to be used or serious peoblems resulted. Check Here for more details. Good Luck
 

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Push Rod is refering to cavitation, which Fords can get if you don't put a coolant additive in, this is when the anti-freeze actually drills holes in the water jackets. Cavitaion takes a while so I don't hink this is your problem, it would always be leaking water out of the motor, into the combustion chamber, or into the oil pan. I think you may have a bad thermostat and housing. Pull the thermo and then do a pressure check.
You can send a oil sample out to see if there is any water or diesel in it. The ford-diesel site is a good site.

Just buy a POWERSTROKE you know you want to.

Craig
 

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I had an 84 f 250 diesel.It started running real rough.It was a blown head gasket,I think it blew between the middle two cylinders or passenger side.It's been 6 yrs. so its a fading memory.My guess is head gasket/cracked head.Keep us posted. <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">
 

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Check the clucht fan if it has one , and check your thermostat, pressure check the radiator cap to.
 

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If you pressured up the coolant system and it held the pressure I would have to say thermostat. however some other things to check are high exhaust back pressure( look for crushed exhaust) bad water pump (is it the original) plugged radiator (can you see any of the tube?are they open?) insufficient airflow through radiator (did you just add a winch or a tranny cooler?) is your fan turning fast enough (loose belt or bad fan clutch) when was the last time you changed the air filter.
 

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Does it get hot & then blow the coolant? Or Does it blow the coolant and then get hot?
Check the radiator cap for a good sealing surface & spring tension.
Check the lower rad hose for collapsing.
What color is the smoke out the tailpipe?
 

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Originally posted by badassjeepguy:
<STRONG>gets hot then losses anti freeze....

blows a lovely black soot out da back <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
You stated that you were leaning towards the fan clutch & or the 'stat.
Do you have access to an infrared temp gun? Check the temp of the upper rad tank & then the lower rad tank, as close to the hoses as possible. The temp diff should be about 10 degrees.

Check the pump timing. Also, how old are the injectors? They could be worn and causing an overfueling situation that will in turn cause an overheating problem.
A dark black cloud out the back can be a sign of overfueling and/or the fuel not being burned correctly.

Is there any air restrictions in front of the rad? What about exhaust restrictions? Do you have a shroud?
 

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As for the cavitation, what happens is when the fuel is ignited by compression, the cylinder wall vibrates rapidly. That, along with the heat form the combustion process, cna cause bubbles to form on the outside surface of the cylinders. When the bubble collapses, the water hits the wall at a VERY high speed. Without the protective layer that the diesel additive package gives the coolong system, the water hitting the cylinder causes microscopic pits to start. As these pits form, they increase the formatipon of the bubbles, which causes more & larger pits. Eventually, these pits will form holes in the cylinder walls.
The additive package in diesel coolant forms a small barrier on the cylinder walls that safrifices itself to prevent the pits from starting.
You cannot prevent the bubbles from forming, but you can prevent the pits from starting.
You may not notice any performance difference from this process as it is normal, but the damage is preventable.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Originally posted by JeepinIan USA:
<STRONG>As for the cavitation, what happens is when the fuel is ignited by compression, the cylinder wall vibrates rapidly. That, along with the heat form the combustion process, cna cause bubbles to form on the outside surface of the cylinders. When the bubble collapses, the water hits the wall at a VERY high speed. Without the protective layer that the diesel additive package gives the coolong system, the water hitting the cylinder causes microscopic pits to start. As these pits form, they increase the formatipon of the bubbles, which causes more & larger pits. Eventually, these pits will form holes in the cylinder walls.
The additive package in diesel coolant forms a small barrier on the cylinder walls that safrifices itself to prevent the pits from starting.
You cannot prevent the bubbles from forming, but you can prevent the pits from starting.
You may not notice any performance difference from this process as it is normal, but the damage is preventable.</STRONG>

right , but im saying if it has finally gone through the wall and antifreeze is in there, it would be done....


the fuel is turned up due to the turbo, i was told this black smoke is good....
 

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BAJG, when ya do get it sorted-out, could
you post your results (hopefully good) so the
rest of us poor bastard older-Ford owner types can understand just another "remedy"..

Thanks,

PS, the Sherpa tow-rig, (90 f250xcab 4x4, 7.3
E4OD just got a new torque converter due me
me burnin' up the old one (rebuilt trans 25k-
ish on it).... I guess it's time for a trans
cooler. WTF don't they put a tranny cooler
in these damn things when you order the
HD tow package, camper package?? dorks.

THanks,

Sherpa
 

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Originally posted by badassjeepguy:
<STRONG>
right , but im saying if it has finally gone through the wall and antifreeze is in there, it would be done....

the fuel is turned up due to the turbo, i was told this black smoke is good....</STRONG>
You're correct about the coolant into the combustion chamber, but it is possible that there is a hole in the cylinder wall below the rings and the coolant is getting intpo the oil. Oil analysis is the best wy to check for that.

One of the best tools you can use, on all oil compartments, is oil analysis. You send a sample in every oil change & watch the trends. When something jumps out of trend, then you know what to lok for. I do this on all my vehicles and reccomend it to everyone, especially if they run diesels.

As for the black smoke, w/ the turbo and fuel turned up, yeah some is ok. The best way to check if you have too much fuel is to measure the exhaust temp. Check each cylinder individually and compare them. If there is one that's way off, then you may have a cylinder with a bad injector, and not notice a performance drop.
 

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Originally posted by badassjeepguy:
<STRONG>my overall egt is normally around 400 degre's, i know thats not what measurement your lookin for but its staying overall low...</STRONG>
That exhaust temp doesn't sound bad at all.

Is the cooling system clean? .10" of calcium silicate build-up in the cooling system is like .75" of firebrick, as far as insulating properties go.

Can you get to a heatgun? As I said before, check the rad in & out temps and check at the 'stat housing what temp it starts to open and what temp it fully opens at.
The bypass hose is still connected isn't it?
Does it stay cool when the heater is on?
 

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Thanks JeepinIan for the the info I'm learning a bunch just reading everything
 
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