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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Alright. I haven't touched my rig since the beginning of Nov. It has been sitting broken. There isnt going to be too much fabbing going on in this build, ironically will probably be one of the most expensive builds I have done though.

Here is the plans:
Turn my 350 into a 383
Replace my 465/klune/205 with a TH400 and new transfer case (STAK 2sp, STAK 3sp, or Atlas if I can find it).

Narrowing up my rear end. This is going to make me shift things around in the rear quite a bit.

Timbren bumpstops for the front axle.

I have tried to do a lot of research for this build since I didnt know the first thing about motors or auto transmissions. I am going to make separate posts in hopes that I can get some advice or at least not screw something big up.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
The motor:

I will be pulling my existing motor out this coming week. Hopefully it will be a good base block to build from. Here are the tentative plans. Let me know what you think as I probably need more help in this area than any other.

My existing 350 block (hopefully) bore .040 over

383 assembly kit. Would I be better off buying just a crank and pistons, using my current rods? Difference and benefits of external and internal balancing?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Eagl...002QQitemZ120068186755QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Edelbrock Performer RPM AL heads. There are two models. One that comes with exhaust crossover and the other does not. Which one would be better to get? If I dont need the exhaust crossover I can just block it off right?
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=EDL-60909&N=700+115&autoview=sku

Comp cams camshaft, lifters, timing gear and chain
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...887485+4294861490+4294786230+115&autoview=sku

1.6 roller rockers, push rods
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...839887+4294863060+4294804215+115&autoview=sku

Keeping my TBI system, this guy sells a bored out TBI kit that makes it 50mm or a 750cfm rating.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/454-...emQQcategoryZ33558QQihZ016QQitemZ260038176149

Adding adjustable fuel pressure regulator to TBI
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-...emQQcategoryZ33554QQihZ016QQitemZ260070066979

MSD HEI upgrade kit
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...840140+4294889107+4294851604+115&autoview=sku

Keeping my existing Edelbrock performer manifold

Ram horn exhaust manifolds. Maybe port them out if I am not too lazy.

Windage tray w/ new oil pan
 

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Eric, I've read thru your other thread as well as looked at what you have selected for parts. BEFORE you buy anything find out what year the block is (if you can provide me the block casting number I can look in one of my books and tell you) and also get the machine work done to the block before you buy any short block parts. I've personally seen too many people get ahead of themselves in this department. I've build quite a few performance motors growing up in a family that drag races and I've worked in machine shops and sold performance parts for the better part of the last 13 years. I dont claim to know everything but I know what works and what doesnt and what is a waste of money,the aftermarket world is huge and can be quite a task to figure it all out if you dont know alot about it. I have seen some people give you some good advice so far but also some misleading advice as well. Strokers are over hyped as I've seen alot of standard stroke motors walk all over the former.When you build a stroker it puts more pressure on the side of the piston and also increases piston travel speed,creating more heat and wear.If a goal is to have a motor that is reliable first and foremost, rethink the stroker part and put that money into better parts in a stock stroke short block(better pistons,bearings,rings and new hardware). Its all about the "complete engine build" and the quality of machine work and the right money spent in the right places. The edelbrock heads you are looking at are probably one of the best choices you could make for "bang for your buck". I cant even count the number of those heads I have sold and have yet to hear anything negative about them.
What is your main purpose of this motor? just for a crawler? a dailey driver? a little of both?
 

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Oh yea, the MSD dist. upgrade kit is for older carb motors with 4 terminal module.It will not work on ecm controlled tbi motor . And the roller tip rockers you are looking at, the pin that holds the roller tip on has broken on several sets that I am aware of. You should look at the Harland Sharpe brand of rocker arms.They are full roller rocker arms and I've been more than impressed with their products. I had a set for a long time and they were beat on every day and never had any issues. My friend still has a set on a smallblock motor that sees 9500 rpm alllll the time and they still look new after 6 or 7 years(I think he has had them on several motors now).
 

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If you decide to go with a 3.75 stroke crank, I've been happy with the Scat products in cast steel (as long as you'll be under 500 horsepower). Piston sideloading could be an issue if you were going to try to get 100K miles out of it- that's up to you.

Personally, I don't worry about it much since I measure engine life in # of wheeling trips, not in mileage. 5-8 years might mean 4000 miles tops.

I have a Scat 3.75 stroke crank, internally balanced for 6" rods, Keith Black pistons with a 30cc dish to keep the CR at 9.5:1 with 64cc Vortec heads. There is almost no compression height to the piston and the lower scraper ring is unsupported because the pin is so high in the slug- but again, not trying to get 100K out of it.

Just my $.02. Free advice might be worth exactly what you paid. Nothing.
 

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Eric,

If your going Big bore TBI get with whoever will burn your PROM's and get their input before you decide anything

I think your going a little small on your camshaft with, I believe Crane has a better product and I like dual profile cams much better http://store.summitracing.com/partd...889107+4294887485+4294925073+115&autoview=sku
I'd also run dart heads and Aluminum only gives you a little bling factor, shoot for 64 cc with and 180cc intake runner
http://store.summitracing.com/egnse...94791970+4294925073+4294784513+115+4294867028

I usually throw all MSD stuff in the trash you might open the door for unwanted problems. By the complete stroker kit with Rods, make you decision between hypereutectic and forged pistons whether or not your going to run nitious

Sorry to say the Ram horns gotta go..your giving up real HP and letting your engine build too much heat.if your passenger drop I'll give you a smokin deal on my hooker center dump and 2 1/4 to 3" crossover
 

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Wongs Performance was the guy I got the calmap cord from. I think they are out of Portland. He said they do chip burning,tuning ,dyno for tbi's. I'll look for his number. If I lost it I know I gave it to Jack.
 

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make you decision between hypereutectic and forged pistons whether or not your going to run nitious:grinpimp:
Berger is selling his 2.0 atlas, I think you need a 3.8, could be cheap enough to change the gear set.
 

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I don't have anything useful to say about your engine decisions or auto for that matter.

But I do think that a Stak 3spd case would kick ass behind a TH400.

BTW, what has been broken on your rig?
 

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But I do think that a Stak 3spd case would kick ass behind a TH400.
I was looking at the difference in gearing between a 3spd and a 2spd behind a th400 when I swap that in and running the 4.11s in the diff and there is really no difference in gearing options. You can shift the tranny and get within 5 of the crawl ratio that the 3spd would give you. This was calculated using a 5.44 2spd and the 3.05/5.44 3spd. I don't remember the exact numbers but it didn't seem worth it to jump to the 3spd.
Just something to look at and make sure its worth the extra $$$ and weight.
 

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Upper link mount which caused some other problems. I mentioned that I was amazed that Eric never broke a rear shaft. That didn't help. Still bad ass how long those shafts lasted with Eric behind the wheel. Not to start a whole Atlas vs. stak topic but atlas is more proven to me. Also a lot more used ones on the market. Seems less complicated to pick the ratio that you like and have less levers and choices and drive the snot out of it. 3.8 atlas with 4.88's is 79 to 1 with the th400. I couldn't be happier with the low range gearing. With nicier heads he should have more poop then me in high range for desert bashing till I can do some head and cam work to get 50-75 more hp.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Eric, I've read thru your other thread as well as looked at what you have selected for parts. BEFORE you buy anything find out what year the block is (if you can provide me the block casting number I can look in one of my books and tell you) and also get the machine work done to the block before you buy any short block parts. I've personally seen too many people get ahead of themselves in this department. I've build quite a few performance motors growing up in a family that drag races and I've worked in machine shops and sold performance parts for the better part of the last 13 years. I dont claim to know everything but I know what works and what doesnt and what is a waste of money,the aftermarket world is huge and can be quite a task to figure it all out if you dont know alot about it. I have seen some people give you some good advice so far but also some misleading advice as well. Strokers are over hyped as I've seen alot of standard stroke motors walk all over the former.When you build a stroker it puts more pressure on the side of the piston and also increases piston travel speed,creating more heat and wear.If a goal is to have a motor that is reliable first and foremost, rethink the stroker part and put that money into better parts in a stock stroke short block(better pistons,bearings,rings and new hardware). Its all about the "complete engine build" and the quality of machine work and the right money spent in the right places. The edelbrock heads you are looking at are probably one of the best choices you could make for "bang for your buck". I cant even count the number of those heads I have sold and have yet to hear anything negative about them.
What is your main purpose of this motor? just for a crawler? a dailey driver? a little of both?
On my block: small numbers T6F507786 and then larger numbers V1119TY2

Why would you do machine work before buying parts?

Main purpose would be for a crawler/going fast between trails. I don't know how many miles it would see in its lifetime but not too many (see picture Gunmetalcruz posted below).
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Oh yea, the MSD dist. upgrade kit is for older carb motors with 4 terminal module.It will not work on ecm controlled tbi motor . And the roller tip rockers you are looking at, the pin that holds the roller tip on has broken on several sets that I am aware of. You should look at the Harland Sharpe brand of rocker arms.They are full roller rocker arms and I've been more than impressed with their products. I had a set for a long time and they were beat on every day and never had any issues. My friend still has a set on a smallblock motor that sees 9500 rpm alllll the time and they still look new after 6 or 7 years(I think he has had them on several motors now).
I had somebody put my TBI together for me. I am not 100% sure its a TBI distributor. Is there a way to tell? I have 5 wires coming out of the coil connector (that includes the tach) and 4 coming out of the cap (including a ground).

If that is not the right distributor upgrade for me what would be? Just a better coil, cap and rotor? From what I have read the stock HEI leaves a lot to be desired.

I will check out those rockers you suggested. Thanks for the help.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
If you decide to go with a 3.75 stroke crank, I've been happy with the Scat products in cast steel (as long as you'll be under 500 horsepower). Piston sideloading could be an issue if you were going to try to get 100K miles out of it- that's up to you.

Personally, I don't worry about it much since I measure engine life in # of wheeling trips, not in mileage. 5-8 years might mean 4000 miles tops.

I have a Scat 3.75 stroke crank, internally balanced for 6" rods, Keith Black pistons with a 30cc dish to keep the CR at 9.5:1 with 64cc Vortec heads. There is almost no compression height to the piston and the lower scraper ring is unsupported because the pin is so high in the slug- but again, not trying to get 100K out of it.

Just my $.02. Free advice might be worth exactly what you paid. Nothing.
Yeah, reliability is a big issue with me but not talking about long life just reliable up to 50k miles. This motor I am taking out was a schucks motor. I had it for about 8yrs, ran on its side too many times to count, overheated too many times to count, ran with no oil too many times to count and it did a great job IMO.
 

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...
. Not to start a whole Atlas vs. stak topic but atlas is more proven to me. Also a lot more used ones on the market. Seems less complicated to pick the ratio that you like and have less levers and choices and drive the snot out of it. 3.8 atlas with 4.88's is 79 to 1 with the th400. .
Dude!! Lay down the pipe.
I've got 5.88 diff gears, th350, and 5.44 stak and I'm at 87 to 1. No way that combo is 79.
FWIW I really like my stak 3 speed. I mostly use the 3 to 1 but 5.44 to 1 is real nice in the supertechnical stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Eric,

If your going Big bore TBI get with whoever will burn your PROM's and get their input before you decide anything

I think your going a little small on your camshaft with, I believe Crane has a better product and I like dual profile cams much better http://store.summitracing.com/partd...889107+4294887485+4294925073+115&autoview=sku
I'd also run dart heads and Aluminum only gives you a little bling factor, shoot for 64 cc with and 180cc intake runner
http://store.summitracing.com/egnse...94791970+4294925073+4294784513+115+4294867028

I usually throw all MSD stuff in the trash you might open the door for unwanted problems. By the complete stroker kit with Rods, make you decision between hypereutectic and forged pistons whether or not your going to run nitious

Sorry to say the Ram horns gotta go..your giving up real HP and letting your engine build too much heat.if your passenger drop I'll give you a smokin deal on my hooker center dump and 2 1/4 to 3" crossover
I will take a look at that cam. Doesn't look too much bigger.... Dual profile just means that the exhaust and intake lobes are different where as a single profile will have the same lobes?

Question on the cam selection. With the torque converter I am pretty set with a 2500 stall speed. Does that mean I should look for a cam that starts building right before 2500 like 2200 or do I still need the low end and have it start at ~1500?

Via www.chevyhipeformance.com I got the numbers for a 180cc head and the Edelbrock 170cc head. The Edelbrock appears to have better flow and since it has a lower volume intake that means it will be a better head right?

I don't like the MSD when you get into the complicated boxes and what not. But what about just MSD coil, cap, rotor?

No nitrous for me now.... as much as I would like to. I just cant afford it.

Biggest problem I have with getting rid of the Ram horns is that they barely clear my driveshaft. Do they make a shorter header than the rams horn?
 

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Discussion Starter #19



The Edelbrock RPM head is the big brother to the Performer version. It still retains a small 170cc intake port volume providing great torque down low where it’s needed. The E/I percentage is no less than 70% with much higher numbers in the low-lift areas. This head is a step up from the Performer, flowing more air, which in return will make more power on the top end.
 

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Discussion Starter #20


This head is also a big brother but to the 165cc Dart Iron Eagle head. The 180cc head reveals a respectable intake flow curve and an outstanding exhaust port. This head comes in many different combinations. You can order the head with straight or angle plugs, a 64cc or 72cc chamber, and in iron or aluminum.
 
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