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Discussion Starter #21
Wongs Performance was the guy I got the calmap cord from. I think they are out of Portland. He said they do chip burning,tuning ,dyno for tbi's. I'll look for his number. If I lost it I know I gave it to Jack.
That would be sweet. See if you can find that for me.

make you decision between hypereutectic and forged pistons whether or not your going to run nitious:grinpimp:
Berger is selling his 2.0 atlas, I think you need a 3.8, could be cheap enough to change the gear set.
Yeah no nitrous. So Hypereutectic would be fine right? Do I want to go with a whole assembly or can I keep my current rods, new crank, new pistons and a rebuild kit?
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I was looking at the difference in gearing between a 3spd and a 2spd behind a th400 when I swap that in and running the 4.11s in the diff and there is really no difference in gearing options. You can shift the tranny and get within 5 of the crawl ratio that the 3spd would give you. This was calculated using a 5.44 2spd and the 3.05/5.44 3spd. I don't remember the exact numbers but it didn't seem worth it to jump to the 3spd.
Just something to look at and make sure its worth the extra $$$ and weight.
Ratios for 5.44:1
1st = 55.31
2nd = 33.09
3rd = 22.30

Ratios for 3.05:1
1st = 31.08
2nd = 18.55
3rd = 12.54

Ratios for 1:1
1st = 10.19
2nd = 6.08
3rd = 4.11

Is there a calculator that will tell you top speed for each ratio?

I can kinda see what your saying since 2nd low/low is the same as 1st low. I would only use 5.44 for crawling and 3.05 for hauling. I am looking more at 1st gear in the 5.44 and 3rd gear in the 3.05 range.

It would only be worth it if the 3.05 and 3rd gear will let me go fast enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Not to start a whole Atlas vs. stak topic but atlas is more proven to me. Also a lot more used ones on the market.
I like the Atlas too. $$$$ difference breaks the deal for me though unless I can find one used. Mckinney said he might have one but I am not sure.

3.8 atlas with 4.88's is 79 to 1 with the th400. I couldn't be happier with the low range gearing.
I dont know where your getting your ratio? 2.48 TH400x 3.8 atlas x 4.88 gears = 45.99. Unless your calculating your converter into it. Good to know your ratio though.

With a 5.44 stak I would be 55.31.
With a 5.0 atlas I would be 50.96
With a 4.3 atlas/stak I would be 43.83 (similar to yours).
With a 3.8 atlas/stak I would be 38.73
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Dude!! Lay down the pipe.
I've got 5.88 diff gears, th350, and 5.44 stak and I'm at 87 to 1. No way that combo is 79.
FWIW I really like my stak 3 speed. I mostly use the 3 to 1 but 5.44 to 1 is real nice in the supertechnical stuff.
How fast can you go in 3.0:1 3rd gear?
 

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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
Found a calculator all speeds @ 4500 rpm

Ratios for 5.44:1
1st = 55.31 = 10 mph
2nd = 33.09 = 16.99 mph
3rd = 22.30 = 25.15 mph

Ratios for 3.05:1
1st = 31.08 = 18.08 mph
2nd = 18.55 = 30.30 mph
3rd = 12.54 = 44.85 mph

Ratios for 1:1
1st = 10.19 = 55.16 mph
2nd = 6.08 = 92.43 mph
3rd = 4.11 = 136.80 mph :eek: :eek: :laughing: :grinpimp:

Looks like I need the 3.05 unless I regear. 1:1 is useless.

Hell if I know if this is right. I just plugged in 4500 rpm, 4.11 diffs, 2.48 1st gear and 33" tires. That came out with 43.34 mph. Is that true for a stockish rig and a th400? FYI 2nd gear would be 72.62 mph. I guess I am not as far off as I thought.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Looks like the lower geared 3 sp might work better for me if 45:1 works good.

All speeds @ 4500 rpm

Ratios for 4.33:1
1st = 44.13 = 12.74 mph
2nd = 26.34 = 21.35 mph
3rd = 17.79 = 31.59 mph

Ratios for 2.43:1
1st = 24.377 = 22.69 mph
2nd = 14.78 = 38.04 mph
3rd = 9.98 = 56.30 mph

Ratios for 1:1
1st = 10.19 = 55.16 mph
2nd = 6.08 = 92.43 mph
3rd = 4.11 = 136.80 mph :eek: :eek: :laughing: :grinpimp:
 

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On my block: small numbers T6F507786 and then larger numbers V1119TY2
Eric, where did you get these numbers from? they look like engine assembly date codes that are stamped into the front of the block. Where you will find the casting(raised numbers,not stamped) number is on the top of the block at the rear betwen the head and where the bellhousing bolts up,usually on the drivers side but some later blocks had them on the passenger side as well. It will be 6-8 digits long- 3858618,10046614 or 460777 are examples of what your looking for. This is important to know before buying parts,like that stroker kit your looking at, because there is a crankshaft for early motors(85 and older) that uses a two peice rear main seal and a crankshaft for later blocks(86 and late that is a one peice seal). You can use the early crank in a later block but it requires an adapter so you can use a two peice rear seal.They also use different crank flange and bolt patterns for the flywheel or flexplate. I did not see a spec on the crank for the stroker kit you are looking at. The first thing I always do when building the motor is get the block the the machine shop and have it checked for cracks(magnafluxed) and if all is good then have them do the machine work and bore it as little as possible so it runs cooler. Theres no need to go all out and punch the bore out just because you decided you "wanted" a .60 over bore.You will be happier if it is machined the minimum amount.Reliability and running cool is the biggest factor in this.If you are set on a certian stroker kit check with the seller to see what your options are for piston selection(size) and what material the rings are made of so the machine shop knows what finish to put on the bores(yes this is very important and sometimes overlooked). Also see what the crank is for-a one or two peice rear main seal. I know alot of people will say a small block is a small block but there are many little differences that need to be looked at in order to obtain the right parts and make the build go smoothly.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
On my block: small numbers T6F507786 and then larger numbers V1119TY2
Eric, where did you get these numbers from? they look like engine assembly date codes that are stamped into the front of the block. Where you will find the casting(raised numbers,not stamped) number is on the top of the block at the rear betwen the head and where the bellhousing bolts up,usually on the drivers side but some later blocks had them on the passenger side as well. It will be 6-8 digits long- 3858618,10046614 or 460777 are examples of what your looking for. This is important to know before buying parts,like that stroker kit your looking at, because there is a crankshaft for early motors(85 and older) that uses a two peice rear main seal and a crankshaft for later blocks(86 and late that is a one peice seal). You can use the early crank in a later block but it requires an adapter so you can use a two peice rear seal.They also use different crank flange and bolt patterns for the flywheel or flexplate. I did not see a spec on the crank for the stroker kit you are looking at. The first thing I always do when building the motor is get the block the the machine shop and have it checked for cracks(magnafluxed) and if all is good then have them do the machine work and bore it as little as possible so it runs cooler. Theres no need to go all out and punch the bore out just because you decided you "wanted" a .60 over bore.You will be happier if it is machined the minimum amount.Reliability and running cool is the biggest factor in this.If you are set on a certian stroker kit check with the seller to see what your options are for piston selection(size) and what material the rings are made of so the machine shop knows what finish to put on the bores(yes this is very important and sometimes overlooked). Also see what the crank is for-a one or two peice rear main seal. I know alot of people will say a small block is a small block but there are many little differences that need to be looked at in order to obtain the right parts and make the build go smoothly.
I got the numbers off the passenger side right below the heads on that shelf. I will have to wait to get the numbers this coming week when I pull the motor. I dont think I will be able to see them now.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I think your going a little small on your camshaft with, I believe Crane has a better product and I like dual profile cams much better http://store.summitracing.com/partd...889107+4294887485+4294925073+115&autoview=sku
I think that cam looks good. I think I was just trying to go conservative.

Is this the same cam? I would like to get the lifters with it. Looks like its cheaper this way too.
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...840140+4294861490+4294786289+115&autoview=sku
 

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Discussion Starter #31 (Edited)
OAnd the roller tip rockers you are looking at, the pin that holds the roller tip on has broken on several sets that I am aware of. You should look at the Harland Sharpe brand of rocker arms.They are full roller rocker arms and I've been more than impressed with their products.
Sounds good. How about these then?

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CSP-S1002&N=700+0&autoview=sku

And what do I base the push rods off of? The cam, lifters and valve springs?
 

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Discussion Starter #33
nice choice eric. I'm sure you'll be on the trail before me however.

Ive got a 350 lt1 in the shop getting ready to become a 383. My stak 3 speed(3.05 and 5.44) shows up next week. My TH400 with Th475 planetaries(20% lower 1st&2nd) is ready to go.
How long did it take to get the 3 spd?

Who did your Th400/Th475? How much $$$ for that?
 

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The cams you have selected dont look bad but just so you know there are early and late cams as well.86 and older are the standard cams that are very common and in 87 they introduced hydraulic roller cams. there are differences in the block for a cam retention thrust plate and a anti-rotation mechanism for the lifters( basically the lifter valley of the block has bosses that are tapped for the lifter retention hardware. The cams on the later motors have a slightly different nose on the cam as well, instead of being flat like the older cams they have a step machined into them and a smaller bolt pattern for the cam gear. Thats one more reason I am trying to find out what year motor you have because I have seen and had to help too many people figure this out the hard way later after the purchased all the parts and did not take this into consideration. Not trying to be a pain,just trying to help make it easier for you.If I am correct you have converted your current motor over to tbi? If so its an early(pre-86) motor with 4 bolt valve covers? What are the numbers on the ecm?(when you get a chance) it willl tell what year the tbi system is that you have. It will be a long gm number that is 7 or 8 digits long.
 

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I believe the number one best thing you can possibly do in your cam selection is to talk to Comp Cams at their cam help hotline and go over the motor with them.Tell them what your plans are for the motor as far as building a stroker and the modified tbi and palns for the prom upgrade for the ecm and all that good stuff. They have spent millions on designing this stuff and the phone call is free.I have had to talk to thier tech dept many times over the years in my job and they have never steered me wrong. I believe that anyone can select a cam that will do alright but for the time it takes to make a free call and get the RIGHT cam selected you would see the difference and be very happy in the end. And one more thing to consider, your going with 1.6 ratio rockers- this means the pushrod clearance to the pushrod holes in the head will need to be checked.Alot of times they have to be ground for the clearance because the pushrod moves closer to stud for the rocker arm on higher ratio rockers. And also remember that the lift for the cam you see is the lift measured with a 1.5 ratio so in reality you have to refigure this for the higher ratio rockers that you will use.

The first cam you selected- energy xtreme:.434 int lift/.444 exh lift w/1.5 ratio rockers would be changed to .463 int lift/.473 exh lift w/1.6 ratio rockers.
The second cam you selected-z-series cam: .446int lift/.459 exh lift with 1.5 ratio arms would now be .476 int lift/.490 exh lift with 1.6ratio.


The Comp Cam cam help # 800-999-0853
or you can use their cam help form at the top of the page if you like:http://www.compcams.com/Technical/default.asp#Specs
 

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How long did it take to get the 3 spd?

Who did your Th400/Th475? How much $$$ for that?
I think the original quote was for 4 weeks. but it got pushed out due to some shortages on the ebrake bracket. and we were ordering 2 through work at a reduced price so we told him not worry about rushing the parts and to take any extra time if needed.

I don't remember the exact price on the TH475...i think around $600. I can check because i have to take it in and have the AMC housing swapped for a Chevy housing since i had mounted to an AMC401 previously. A friend of a friend runs a tranny shop in OC. I can get the name of the shop if your interested.

Have you seen any of the 3 speeds in person yet?
 

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Discussion Starter #38
If I am correct you have converted your current motor over to tbi? If so its an early(pre-86) motor with 4 bolt valve covers? What are the numbers on the ecm?(when you get a chance) it willl tell what year the tbi system is that you have. It will be a long gm number that is 7 or 8 digits long.
yeah thanks for the reminder. I now remember reading about cams and differnt style blocks. I will get the info ASAP. Your not being a pain and I appricate the help.

Yeah the current motor is converted to TBI. Nothing special. I still use a standard non-TBI intake manifold with an adapter, the TBI itself, minimum TBI computer stuff hooked up and I will have to figure out the HEI to see if anything was done to that.

Yes it is an early 4 bolt valve cover motor.

I will get the ECM in a couple of hours when I get home.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
I believe the number one best thing you can possibly do in your cam selection is to talk to Comp Cams at their cam help hotline and go over the motor with them.
I will give them a ring

And one more thing to consider, your going with 1.6 ratio rockers- this means the pushrod clearance to the pushrod holes in the head will need to be checked.Alot of times they have to be ground for the clearance because the pushrod moves closer to stud for the rocker arm on higher ratio rockers. And also remember that the lift for the cam you see is the lift measured with a 1.5 ratio so in reality you have to refigure this for the higher ratio rockers that you will use.
This will need to be done with brand new heads? I also thought that the roller rockers eliminated this since they dont hold the push rods in one location?

The Edelbrock heads can take up to .575 lift so I look to be good there.
 

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Erick, also talk to whoever is going to be burning ur prom about what size cam u can run, and then have them burn it for that cam, heads, headers ect ect. I know that AFI told me to keep the cam to .500" lift or less and 214I/214E @.050 duration. So I of course hade the stock cam reground for those specs. Only cost like $90 to have it reground compared to $300 new.

stan
 
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