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Discussion Starter #41
I think the original quote was for 4 weeks. but it got pushed out due to some shortages on the ebrake bracket. and we were ordering 2 through work at a reduced price so we told him not worry about rushing the parts and to take any extra time if needed.

I don't remember the exact price on the TH475...i think around $600. I can check because i have to take it in and have the AMC housing swapped for a Chevy housing since i had mounted to an AMC401 previously. A friend of a friend runs a tranny shop in OC. I can get the name of the shop if your interested.

Have you seen any of the 3 speeds in person yet?
A shop and price would be cool.

No I havent seen one in person. Nice?
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Erick, also talk to whoever is going to be burning ur prom about what size cam u can run, and then have them burn it for that cam, heads, headers ect ect. I know that AFI told me to keep the cam to .500" lift or less and 214I/214E @.050 duration. So I of course hade the stock cam reground for those specs. Only cost like $90 to have it reground compared to $300 new.

stan
Isnt it better to just run ALDL and have them burn it off that data? Are you saying there is a max lift you can run with any prom?
 

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Those heads should be fine,I had brain fade and was thinking about stock heads.When you talk to Comp Cams find out what spring they recomend for the cam you go with,at least find out what spring pressure. The heads you are looking at can support up to .575 lift with the springs they have installed, but being that you will be well below this you will more than likely need less spring pressure.If you run those springs with one of the cams you are looking at it is possible that they will put too much pressure on the cam and prematurely wear it out. Just looking in the Comp Cams catalog and comparing a .570 lift vs a .460 lift cam the spring pressure difference is 419 lbs. open vs 295 lbs. open spring pressure. Thats alot of difference. If you look at a 1.5 ratio vs a 1.6 ratio rocker the pushrod contact point is closer to the pivot point where it mounts on the stud, thats how the ratio is changed and thats were they usually rub. Several reasons that rollers are used- 1. free up horsepower from the reduced friction. 2. more choices for custom ratios. 3. the need to be able to adjust where the tip of the rocker contacts the valve becomes required with larger cams and also with different ratio arms(stock arms are not adjustable). Also, those heads have the pushrod guideplates installed,make sure the pushrods you get are hardened so the guideplates dont wear into them(yes sometimes there is a chance of contact on these heads,I believe there should be a minimum of.005-.007 clearance). Some of the edelbrock heads require =.100 longer pushrods,just make sure which heads you get before you buy the pushrods.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
When you talk to Comp Cams find out what spring they recomend for the cam you go with,at least find out what spring pressure. The heads you are looking at can support up to .575 lift with the springs they have installed, but being that you will be well below this you will more than likely need less spring pressure.If you run those springs with one of the cams you are looking at it is possible that they will put too much pressure on the cam and prematurely wear it out. Just looking in the Comp Cams catalog and comparing a .570 lift vs a .460 lift cam the spring pressure difference is 419 lbs. open vs 295 lbs. open spring pressure. Thats alot of difference.
For the second cam listed:
Spring Requirements:
Loads Closed 114 LBS @ 1.700
Open 303 LBS @ 1.270

Heads have:
Valve Spring Seat Pressure: ........................................120 lbs.
Valve Spring Seat Pressure @ .500” Lift: ..................320 lbs.
 

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Discussion Starter #45 (Edited)
Numbers off the front of my TBI:
17089018 0639 JWZ

Dont know if this will help but I was able to clean up the backside of the block. The numbers are pretty corroded and I dont know if I will be able to read them clearly even when I take the block out.
39700*(8,0,3,9????)

Here is a pic of my HEI if anybody can tell anything from the pictures
 

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Why would you do machine work before buying parts?
because you might have useless componets if you buy first.

ie:you buy .030 over pistons, rings. machine shop needs to go .040 over to clean up the cylinder walls.

munson is giving you excellent advice in my educated opinion.

I would seriously consider going with a oil fiter bypass. and I also like to use a "secondary" starter solenoid like the old ford style bolted somewhere easy to get to. The exhaust likes to heat up SBC starters making it a PITA to start after a hard day of work sometimes.

Get a solid built shortblock together. That's the beef. You can increase/decrease power to your needs alot easier in the upper half valvetrain,injection, ignition etc.

If you want to use this engine forever, get it balanced, blueprinted blah blah, if you want to learn as you go take it apart while reading the book mentioned earlier or better yet with someone who has done a dozen of them. They will have a good idea of what condition your block is in as it sits.

18436572....same as a AMC304.:grinpimp:
 

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Dude!! Lay down the pipe.
I've got 5.88 diff gears, th350, and 5.44 stak and I'm at 87 to 1. No way that combo is 79.
FWIW I really like my stak 3 speed. I mostly use the 3 to 1 but 5.44 to 1 is real nice in the supertechnical stuff.

You take your final and times it by 2 to figure in torque converter to give you a comparable number to a manual. His real ratio is 46.2.
Mine is 36.9....which is a little high for technical crap but great for Rock Racing.
 

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Eric,
If your block is at .030 right now I'd probably look for another block. just find one with the dipstick on the drivers side(early) don't worry about 2 bolt/4bolt. I've never seen a crank come out of a 350 but I've seen a few fail due to thin cyl walls.It will make your life easier if you go with aftermarket rods I'd stick with 5.7" length. you will have to grind on the block to clear the throws. find a complete internal balance Eagle kit. some kits are external balance and you'll have to run 400 harmonic and flexplate.
the longer the rod the less crank angle and they hold together better at high RPM but they'll have less torque at low rpm. I built my 400 with the stock rod length and dart 165 cc heads that engine makes real power at 2000 rpm.

I'm not a big fan of Edelbrocks Cyl heads either go with Dart or AFR heads their product is way better

The Distributor you have is a mechanical advance distributor. you don't want any vacuam or centrifical advance. A stock HEI is capable of 50k volts and will burn any mixture you put into an engine. I won't use anything in one other than ac delco stuff. you can but it'll be a waste of $$$.

check out http://www.dyno-flo.com/ their out of Vegas and are a huge dealer.

What intake are you running? don't run a TBI intake use an adapter plate with a bbc TBI on a small single plane or modified dual plane. center dump header will clear anything that ramhorns will.
If your going with aftermarket heads you need to get the air in and out of them.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
find a complete internal balance Eagle kit. some kits are external balance and you'll have to run 400 harmonic and flexplate.

What intake are you running? don't run a TBI intake use an adapter plate with a bbc TBI on a small single plane or modified dual plane. center dump header will clear anything that ramhorns will.
If your going with aftermarket heads you need to get the air in and out of them.
I need to buy a harmonic balancer and a flex plate anyway. Would it still be better to buy a 350 balancer and have internal balanced crank or to buy a 400 balancer and 400 crank?

Running a standard performer (for a carburetor) with an adapter for my TBI.

I will research headers. There is no way a block hugger will fit. Maybe a rear dump will though.
 

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The number on your tbi I can only find for 88-93 4.6 v-6 motors. Interesting. They are basically the same as v-8 tbi's as far as parts they use.I think the main difference is throttle bore size. They use the same injectors and pressure reg. and fuel system.

The only block numbers that I can find that start with 39700 are:
3970010- 1969-1980 350 2 or 4 bolt main
3970014- 1970-1976 350 2 bolt main
3970020/3970024 1969-1973 307 2 bolt main

As far as your dist. it looks like a rare 5 wire system that was only used for a few years in the late 70's to early 80's IIRC. I believe that tbi modules shoul be 7 or 8 wire. I am interested in what the dist. number is. It would help to figure out what is what on your conversion.

Also if you can get the gm number for the ecm it will help. Should be a 7 or 8 digit number.
 

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As far as 350 vs 400 parts-go with internal balanced 350 parts. Any motor I have ever built that was external balanced I always change it to internal. There are alot more options for standard 350 internal balances parts. Have you considered making your own headers? Its not that hard if you buy the prebent pieces and flanges, it just takes time.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
I will get the ECM, possibly block number and dist number this weekend.

So my best option will be to get a internal balance 400 crank and I will still have to run a harmonic balancer or is there a way that you eliminate the need for a harmonic all together?

yeah I was looking for some header flanges right now. I think if I run headers I will have to make them myself which isn't a big deal as I have been making my own exhaust anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
These are sweet. I bet I could make a set really easy.



You can kinda see what I am dealing with in these pics. Maybe I have a shorter ram horn than your thinking? I held a spare block hugger up next to it and it had to be atleast 4-5" longer.





 

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The stroker kit your looking at is internally balanced. Always run a balancer. just measure the size of your old balancer and order the same size. I believe there are 3 different sizes, most common being 6.75", its because of where the timing marks line up with the timing tab in the cover. No need for a fancy racing balancer. At the machine shop I worked at we used Pioneer or Dorman brand balancers unless the customer supplied something else. You can get them for $50-$70 and they are new. Its cheap insurance.
Also, I dont know if you have thought about it but really think about running new fasteners for your motor(main bolts,head bolt) Arp brand is the only way to go. Again, cheap insurance. Also decide if you are going to run main cap bolts or studs before you machine the block because when they align hone the mains they will need the proper fasteners. Main bolts and studs will torque differently and if you change your mind after the machine work is done the crank will lock up when you torque it. I've always been a fan of main studs over bolts. Studs are only $15 to $20 dollars more than bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #59

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I am reading that a stock HEI has the required voltage but it cuts off at 5000rpm.

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/67498_hei_coils_modules/
The reason they cut out is the module only recieves 7 volts input(the aftermarket modules have more primary input voltage,thats the main difference), thus limiting the output of the coil, the coils are epoxy filled(vs oil filled) which run hotter(the reason they sometimes crack) and stress the module anddd the carbon button for the coil(which can also cause the cap crack) has too much resistance. The best thing to do is use ac delco parts and buy an aftermarket low resistance carbon button from msd or accell. Thats what I have learned from my buddy who owns a carb and distributor performance shop. I have watched him test various aftermarket coils,modules and carbon buttons and even complete aftermarket distributors on his machine and have seen very little difference in stock vs "performance parts". Oh yea, that distributor you have looks like its been in a war!:flipoff2:
I would really recomend replacing or rebuilding the thing completly. It looks like the housing is for a vacuum advance because of the cutout on the body and someone has eliminated it. When you get the ecm number I can find out what module and dist. you should have to make it work properly.
 
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