Pirate 4x4 banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
230 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Where I wheel we're in alot of muddy water holes. Damn near every weekend my alt. stops working. What I found is the mud water gets in the brush holders, the water evaporates leaving the dried mud in the brush holders, shortly after the brushes wear and wont allow them to make contact with the slip rings. Sometimes I can get it to work by rompin' through cleaner water. Most times if I remove the alt. and soak it in a bucket of clean water for an hour or so and it'll come back to life.

Question? Has anybody tried to install water/contact cleaner injection near the brush holders to flush them? I'm thinking of small tubing aimed at the brush holders, plumbed to a small pump(electric fuel pump) and inject as needed?
Any other ideas?
P.S. I really don't want to relocate the alt.

Guy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
297 Posts
soaking in clean water?? weird.. i'd suggest a windshield washer res and pump since they squirt pretty good.. mounting would be up to you though, pat'na
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
230 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I don't think mounting it should be too difficult. Used to be diemaker and machine fabicater. I rebuild my alternators all the time. Can't use the washers due to the fact I no longer have the set up in my XJ yet, but thought about it.

Guy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
297 Posts
hmm no longer have what setup??
why can't you just rig a small jet nozzle off of a little shitty washer pump on a toggle/rocker?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,567 Posts
I didnt think it was good to get water in the alternator period, but maybe Im wrong. I would like to clean mine out as well but didnt want to damage it. Is it ok to take it out of the Jeep and clean it out like that?

Matt
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
230 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Joker,
I removed the washer resevoir to put an air tube to my cowl vent. Soon I'll find a place to install another. But I'm thinking I need more psi to flush the brushes out.
Matt,
Like I said in my first post I do it all the time. The biggest problem that I had was the was the rear bearing didn't like it until I started to pack a Bud Light bottle cap w/ grease and RTV'd it to the rear bearing with that I now get 1 or 2 seasons out of a alt. before it needs a total rebuild.

Guy
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,255 Posts
My suggestion would be to get some electric contact cleaner from Radio Shack and spray it down with that when it quits working, or at the end of every run. It's much more electrical component friendly than water,which has the possibility of shorting something out. Comes in a little can w/ a brush,or w/o brush would probably work better in this instance. Dries w/o residue,won't melt electrical insulation like carb cleaner.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
230 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
piratebuggy: I tried to spray contact cleaner into the back of the alt w/ the tube but it doen't work the same as soaking and manually spinning. That is why I think I must shoot it directly into the brush holder with some force.
I think I'll take one apart this weekend and see how I can fit some nozzles in.

Guy
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,255 Posts
I'm not trying to take away from anybodies ideas-just trying to brainstorm a few alternatives. Maybe there would be some way to shield the alternator from the mud and water,without taking away from the air cooling of course. Not sure how to go about this-maybe somebody can run with that idea. Of course it's easier to figure a way to flush the thing with more water,but it sounds like the lifespan of your alternators is rather short. And I don't like the idea of charging system failure because it always seems to happen at the wrong times. For that reason I would rather see it staying a little dryer and mud free but that's just me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
230 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
We talked about doing a total seal. First take the fan off the alt and build a fiberglass duct in its place that will accomadate(sp?) a 1 1/2" hose. Attach that to a small blower(perhaps one from a F 150 that's used to cool the exhaust manifold) installed inside the cab. Seal off the rest of the alt w/ frp but at the rear have it ducted to another 1 1/2" hose exhausting inside the cab.
We thought about for awhile, seems like alot of work to not know if it'll work.
When I said 1 or 2 years before a total rebuild what I should of said was I disassemble the alt, soak in clean water to remove all of dried mud, vegetation bits and what not from the windings, heatsink, brush holders and the complete inside. After blowing down w/ compressed air and contact cleaner I then polish the slip rings w/ extra fine Scotch-Brite, install a new rear bearing and reassemble.
Total time about one hour. Other then the rear bearing (about $7.00) I never had to replace anything else. I kept the same three alts going now for over five years of hard muddin'.

Guy
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top