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Discussion Starter #1
so I just replaced my hg along with a valve job and the works doneon the head by a local machine shop. New gasket set. The timing chain was replaced with a dual doa kit not long ago. Put every back together, and finished today.

Adjusted the timing to spec and adjusted the valve lash to spec. All wire and hoses are intact where they should be. Started her up today. The idle is perfect, the exhaust is consistent. but.......

here is the problem......

1st: it takes a while(like 4-5) attempts to get the thing to start. It will fire up on the first crank but dies before it can get going.

2nd: there is an extremely noticable noise coming from somewhere? It sounds like in front of the timing cover area but it is a consistent clack/clicking noise that seems to be nsync with the rpms. I assume it is something mechanical, but what?

3rd: there also seems to be some oil spitting out behind the valve cover, head back plate area but I am not sure. The gaskets were all replaced?

I apologise if this has been covered before but I couldn't find anything this specific using the SEARCH button. thanks
 

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If oil is spitting out the back of the cover, you might have done somthing like I did my first time, I got one of those pesky vacuum hoses stuck between the valve cover and the head. Clanking in nsync with the rpms huh....is it more of a ticking that sounds like its coming from the top of the engine, like right beneath the valve cover...it could be a loose valve in there, sometimes you can mess up when setting the valve lash...I'm not sure what to tell you on the 4-5 attempts to get it to start...you timed it with a light I presume, you got the timing chain exactly on in relation to the crankshaft? Just a thought...

Ohh, do you have a blocked exhaust, or intake? or a sticky throttle plate? cold start injector wire plugged in?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
no I haven't timed it with a light, should have but I don't have one. As far as the clicking, it is very loud. Not the normal valve ticking. I did the valve lash with my buddy, I am pretty sure everything is set to spec. I will look again(tommorrow) I do have the timing gear setup correct. I replaced the timingcover gasket and made sure it was legit.


blocked exhaust....don't think so, how would I tell? Intake is good. Not sure on the sticky throttle plate?????? not sure what that even is? Cold start injector wire is plugged in. I had an issue with it earlier today....it was spraying gas out of the thing, but I got it fixed....I think.
 

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slug said:
I did the valve lash with my buddy, I am pretty sure everything is set to spec.


blocked exhaust....don't think so, how would I tell?

is valve lash being checked at normal operating temp?

unbolt cat-converter, its easy.

check for fuel problems, maybe strainer or filter is clogged, maybe pump rubber connecting hose burst. if you take the sending unit out, change the strainer, even if it looks good. also try jumping the fuel test connector. that would rule out afm switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
tanman2003 said:
is valve lash being checked at normal operating temp?

unbolt cat-converter, its easy.

check for fuel problems, maybe strainer or filter is clogged, maybe pump rubber connecting hose burst. if you take the sending unit out, change the strainer, even if it looks good. also try jumping the fuel test connector. that would rule out afm switch.
well I started the engine up for the first time, let it idle for a few minutes then pulled the valve cover and changed the valve lash. I guess it would be wise to get it up to normal temp tommorrow and recheck it.

I have no idea what your talking about in the entire 2nd paragraph. Could you spell that out for me? thanks.
 

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In your fuel tank is a pump...I have never messed with mind, so I wouldn't know what to direct you to there. But it sounds like you need to get a light and use it. My distributer was off and it did the exact same thing (minus the noise) but it was hard to crank over, but it would still run sweet! Do you have a manual, it will tell you how to time it, timing lights are pretty cheap too! But that is the first thing I would check for the odd starting pattern... the noise, if you are almost positive it isn't a valve, go back and make sure somthing isn't loose in the timing cover. Does the noise go away when there is oil pressure? I heard from somewhere else on this BB that the timing tensioner is run off oil pressure!
 

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slug said:
no I haven't timed it with a light, should have but I don't have one. .
Then why are you asking for help right now???? Do you think it the problem will magically disapear? Time it properly, distributor could be off and stalls the engine. The clicking could be a loose timming chain even if its new. As for the oil leak, reach out wit a mirror and flash light.
 

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tanman2003 said:
check for fuel problems, maybe strainer or filter is clogged, maybe pump rubber connecting hose burst. if you take the sending unit out, change the strainer, even if it looks good. also try jumping the fuel test connector. that would rule out afm switch.
check for fuel problems. on the pump that is attatched to the sender assembly(you must drop the tank take off fuel line return line and vent line, mark where hoses go, do not mix vent and return line.
take off screws, pull out sender, change fuel pump strainer, it is a mesh filter type dealy that strains the fuel of large particles, it can become clogged, change it when your in there, $14 in parts. check if the hose conecting the pump to the sender is not ruptured, also as a diagnostic process, jump the t connector in the engine harness by the check engine connector, this will automatically start the fuel pump when the ingnition is on. that way you know the pump is getting power so that would rule out the switch in the afm that activates the fuelpump.
 

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courtesy of 4crawler



this is the test connector location.



this is how you jump it

more info
If you find your engine is hard to start when it has been sitting for a while, but is still warm, you might have a problem with the fuel pump not turning on. I noticed my '85 4Runner would need to be cranked for many seconds before it would start. When I was doing some work on the engine, I decided to install an electronic fuel pressure sender in the fuel injector rail (I drilled a hole in the end of the rail, soldered in a brass pipe elbow and screwed the sender into that) and noticed when the engine is cranking but not starting, my fuel pressure was zero. Then, it would pop up to the normal operating range and the engine would fire. I reasoned that I had to crank the engine fast enough to pull sufficient air into the AFM to trip the fuel pump contacts and pressurize the system (I suspect I have an air leak in the fuel system that is letting the residual pressure bleed off over a few minutes - I see no fuel leaking). Anyway, digging through the handy FSM, I found the following:
 

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about the noise warren, i adjusted my valves to spec 2 days ago, .012" on the exhaust and .008" on the intake and it was making that noise. Pull the spec down to .007" on the intake and .009" on the exhaust. It should make a big diff.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
alright. I went out and bought a friggin timing light. Set it at 5d btdc for initial liming. Had the idle at spec but adjusted it up to 950 after I timed it. I did just the initial timing in the 1st cylinder. Is that the extent of the timing?

Truck starts up fine now, I fixed the oil leak, i was the half circle seals at the back of the head between the valve cover...wasn't set properly.

Got the engine up to normal temp and adjusted the valves. Only had a feeler in even incriments, so I just tighten the screw harder on the .008 and .012 feeler. Still making a weird noise....noises. Not sure how to diagnose it?

Lord Orange, when were you coming my way? thanks.
 
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