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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
a stronger one? I posted about a week ago that the Dana 30 in my bud's heep wouldn't engage...we got it apart and it is a broken fork...AGAIN. Three times now and we are wondering what could be causing this to happen.

I would think that the vacuum would be the weak link in this setup and that the fork would not break the way it is. It is breaking at the base, where the shift fork rod goes thru it. It's like vacuum is stronger than it should be and is actually elongating the hole. Kinda hard to explain, and I might be able to get a pic of it up tonight or tomorrow.

ANY ideas??? We can't figure this damn thing out and it is getting to be a pain in the ass.

Does anyone make a stonger shift fork?? Would it be a good idea to make a stronger one? My bud is a machinist and can make one out of steel instead of aluminum, but I am thinking that this might not be a good idea, as right now it seems that the fork is the weak link. BLAH BLAH...this book is long enough..thanks in advance for the help before by suggesting that the cable setup be used...

[ 08-11-2001: Message edited by: JasonB ]
 

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Why don't you just leave it engaged permantly by removing the c-clips, sliding the fork to the engaged position, then replacing the c-clips. You might have to put a washer or two between the fork and c-clips to keep it tight, its been a while since I've done it.

This will remove the vaccum from the equation if you feel this is what is breaking the fork. Figured this out on a buddy's rig for a trail fix. It works on TJ pricipals. Best of all, its easy, fast, and free.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Originally posted by P&T jeeps:
<STRONG>Why don't you just leave it engaged permantly by removing the c-clips, ... easy, fast, and free.</STRONG>

Saw this on your other post...still wondering if this is a good idea tho. The Jeep is his daily driver...would this induce any extra wear on things that normally wouldn't get as much?
 

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Originally posted by JasonB:
<STRONG>
Saw this on your other post...still wondering if this is a good idea tho. The Jeep is his daily driver...would this induce any extra wear on things that normally wouldn't get as much?</STRONG>
Nope. Same as on the XJ's. the newer ones don't even have the vac disco on the D30.
 

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i used to have that problem with mine. flat out i think they're junk! when ever i went wheelin i'd take the fork out, manually slide it over and cable tie a socket in there. then that fork wouldn't have any slop,worked well until i swapped out hte axle.
 

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The best thing you can do, if you want to keep running that D30 is to either put in the posilok unit (had one, sold it), or put a one piece axle on the passenger side. You can go down to your local favorite driveline shop and tell them you want a passenger side axle from an 88 (i think that was the year) XJ with selec-trac. That was a non-disconnect axle, just like the new ones on TJ's. I was also told you could get a TJ inner shaft put on your XJ stub shaft. I did the selec-trac axle directly into my YJ, and it works awesome.
I had to use a different seal for it though. Might be the one from the same XJ, it goes in the diff, instead of in the axle tube. It doesnt have the mushroom shape to guide the shaft in though, so you risk damagint it easier. Driveline Direct can also help you out. They have done this conversion also. Mine is a temporary fix til I finish rebuilding my D44/60 combo. <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce.gif" border="0">
Good luck! BTW, dont use the hub from the selectrac xj, it is narrower than a later unit. I made that mistake and brought it along as a spare, but when i needed it, it was about a half inch too narrow, and put the rotor against the dust shield.
Michael
 

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Oh, one more thing. If you insist on using the two piece axle design, you can go down to the dealer (damnit, dealer time) and get a cast iron fork. It is an upgrade, but is obviously not the best solution to your problem.
Michael
 

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cleen, do you have any more info on that seal. we tried to put in a TJ shaft on my buds YJ but couldn't get a seal to work. the diff is not machined on the passenger side to accept a seal and the TJ shaft is way too small for the seal in the vac disco to work...
 
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