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Ok, guys... check this out... Just bought a 1987 YJ for next to nothing... Previous owner said it wouldnt run-said it was the timing... Well-anyways... Poured some gas down the carb-it started right up-runs great-no problem.. After getting all excited:smokin: I decide to drive this jewel... Release the emergency brake-The Jeep dies... Keep in mind that this ride has the venerable 258, so unexpected engine problems are always expected! Push the e-brake again-and it will runs...CRAZY:confused: ... Well-I've now determined that it will start with the brake released, only to rev up and die like you cut electrical power... Unhooked the wire that runs the indicator light on the dash- no difference.. Traced the cables to the rear drums-No interference... The lever mechanism itself is not touching any wires at all... Grounded the lever-no difference... Check the coil for power-It has 12v as long as the key is on-regardless of e-brake pedal position... Craziest thing ever... HELP?
 

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drive it with the parking break on??? My 88 YJ with the 258 did some weird shit as well... I would not run if I was raining out side(even if it was in the garage)... never did figure that one out.

Your best bet is going to do what I did...get a D.U.I (Distributer Unified Ign.) its a one wire hook up and then run the weber 2bbl. carb and get rid of the comp controlled carb., It will give you more headaches than you can imagine.


If you dont want to do than then my next suggestion would be to get it running and start shaking wires under that dash in an attempt to get it to stall.
 

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It sounds like you need to unbolt the e-brake assembly from the dash and take a look above it and between the brake and body for some wires hung up in it. Is the brake assembly or pedal pushing on the wiring or the fuse box when the brake is on or off? Maybe the pedal is putting enough pressure on something when it is pushed to make a bad contact near it start working.
 

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Schmozilla said:
drive it with the parking break on??? My 88 YJ with the 258 did some weird shit as well... I would not run if I was raining out side(even if it was in the garage)... never did figure that one out.

Your best bet is going to do what I did...get a D.U.I (Distributer Unified Ign.) its a one wire hook up and then run the weber 2bbl. carb and get rid of the comp controlled carb., It will give you more headaches than you can imagine.


If you dont want to do than then my next suggestion would be to get it running and start shaking wires under that dash in an attempt to get it to stall.

D.U.I (Davis Unified Ignnition) :smokin:
 

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Schmozilla said:
Your best bet is going to do what I did...get a D.U.I (Davis Unified Ign.) its a one wire hook up and then run the weber 2bbl. carb and get rid of the comp controlled carb., It will give you more headaches than you can imagine.

Ditto. This is what I did (except I'm running a Motorcraft 2bbl). With the crappy OE carb, even braking fast while driving down the street would cause the engine to stall out. It's the first mod I ever made to my YJ and the process is very simple. Plus you get to basically remove any possibility of electronic gremlins that might be at the root of your problem. When you swap in the HEI and carb you also get to rip out all of those stupid vacuum tubes running all over the place under the hood, a huge chunk of the wiring harness, the computer behind the glove box, and the ignition module in the driver's side fender well - which is very satisfying.
 

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yeah check the grounds under the hood once owrked on a jeep that didnt like to start afer a body lift was installed came down to the old grounds didnt make good contact solution was simple and cheap.
 

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I agree, check the ground between the battery and the engine block. We had a lift gate on a pick-up do that. The ground between the chasssis and the block was bad so it was trying to ground itself through the brake cable. We found out the hard way, the e-brake cable melted. Try some jumper cables. Hook them up between the battery and the block and then try starting it. If that fixes it then you know that you need a new chassis to block ground. Hooking the battery up to the block is the quick and easy way to check this.
 

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Schmozilla said:
My 88 YJ with the 258 did some weird shit as well... I would not run if I was raining out side(even if it was in the garage)... never did figure that one out.
Easy fixes: Buy your rig a umbrella or get some chicken bones in a little bag and do funny looking dance around your Jeep to chase away the evil spirits or it could be that your motor has heard the rumor that sugar and shit both melt when it rains.:flipoff2:
 

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Schmozilla said:
drive it with the parking break on??? My 88 YJ with the 258 did some weird shit as well... I would not run if I was raining out side(even if it was in the garage)... never did figure that one out.
That’s an easy one. Your distributor cap and/or your plug wires were arcing in the high humidity...
 

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I would bet that you have a wire that is grounding out to the E-brake when it is pushed in.The fuse box is right there.Reach under the dash and move the the wires around.I bet it will do the same thing.
 

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Cheepin said:
I would bet that you have a wire that is grounding out to the E-brake when it is pushed in.The fuse box is right there.Reach under the dash and move the the wires around.I bet it will do the same thing.
forgot about that one
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I really appreciate all the help guys... I have tried everything that has been mentioned but totally removing the e-brake mechanism and the the chicken bones thing (Actually did do the dance, though-video @ 11)... New battery to body ground and new battery to engine block ground... Ran a ground wire from the battery to the e-brake lever, mount, AND the 1/4" of bare cable right at the attatchment point- NO DIFFERENCE... no wires touching the brake actuating mechanism... Removed the carpet for an unobstructed look... "Wiggled" the fuse block ( and by that I mean I tried to rip it from the firewall, shook every wire that I could reach from my precarious position looking under the dash, and unplugged the firewall wiring bulkhead-checking for burnt, melted, or broken wires- NOTHING DOING.... I'm pretty sure it is just screwing with me now... I was glad that this POS started and all-meaning it had no serious internal timing or valve issues as first thought, but now im thinking it might have been easier to fix those things....
 

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cody4011 said:
I really appreciate all the help guys... I have tried everything that has been mentioned but totally removing the e-brake mechanism and the the chicken bones thing (Actually did do the dance, though-video @ 11)... New battery to body ground and new battery to engine block ground... Ran a ground wire from the battery to the e-brake lever, mount, AND the 1/4" of bare cable right at the attatchment point- NO DIFFERENCE... no wires touching the brake actuating mechanism... Removed the carpet for an unobstructed look... "Wiggled" the fuse block ( and by that I mean I tried to rip it from the firewall, shook every wire that I could reach from my precarious position looking under the dash, and unplugged the firewall wiring bulkhead-checking for burnt, melted, or broken wires- NOTHING DOING.... I'm pretty sure it is just screwing with me now... I was glad that this POS started and all-meaning it had no serious internal timing or valve issues as first thought, but now im thinking it might have been easier to fix those things....
http://www.painlesswiring.com/ Might be an option. Maybe a broken wire and the e-brake moving was enough to get the wire to work. But moving the wires around might make it worse. There are easy ways to find broken wires, especially on a carbed rig, but I would be spending most the morning typing out how.
 

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Are you sure it's related to the e-brake and not that when you release the e-brake you press the brake pedal? With it running and e-brake on, try stomping the brake pedal a few times. If the brake booster is dead then it won't hold a vacuum, it will leak air into the manifold and the engine will struggle.

Seperately, remove the wire from the parking brake assembly and ground it (simulating that it's ON.) See if having the parking brake pedal ON or OFF makes any difference. Then set the pedal and remove the ground from the wire.

CP
 
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