Why? The 20R is about the only thing I can think of that has as little grunt as the stock Zuk 1.3. Now, if you took a 22R and put the 20R head on it, the you'd be talking. :grinpimp:
Mods? Um, radiator, starter, clutch, tranny/tcase (I see *NO* reason not to run a toy 5-speed and Tcase(s).) and, um... motor mounts? Pretty much the standard motor-swap stuff, but then again, I've never actually tried or seen one of these swaps, so I don't know.
I do know that you can run a carbed toy motor on VERY few wires, and that some dicking with the Toy carb can get it to nearly run inverted. So at least the wiring would be easy.
This Zuki has a 20R in it with an auto out of a cressida and a stock zuk T-case. I think it is stretched to around 103" and the front clip was stretched about 5 or 6 inches. The guy that built it said the only thing that he wished he would have done better was the bodywork. The cage is ghetto, but its been flopped several times and I think over once and it has held up so far. The 20R had a lot more power than a stock zuki motor. With 4.57's it climbed pretty good. Everything fit once it was stretched with clearance for a mechanical fan. He said it would fit without stretching but you had to move the radiator out past the grill or right to the grill.
I have a 22r in my zuk. I'm not running a body lift and put the dual case setup in while I was at it. the radatior had to be moved to the back hydro clutch had to be put in. the only body mods were to the tranny tunnel. The rear axle had to be moved to get a good drive line angle ( i put 6 degrees in the engine tranny and t-case to help out in that equation. I also went to propane while I was at it.
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