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Discussion Starter #21

Removed the steering box and cleaned up the frame. I will be able to reuse the steering box mount plates and sleeves. Good bit of trimming into the body mount, core support, and inner fender. Removal went a lot smoother than planned.

From inside the engine compartment looking out towards the driver front body mount


From the front of truck looking back along driver frame rail


From the front looking down at driver frame rail and body mount


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just an FYI, I cut into my body pretty good right in there and eventually had my core support crack off totally and it managed to twist the whole mount that it flexed and cracked my radiator.

it is now braced heavily :rasta: something to think about while you are in there, either replate the core support back in (can be done with thin ~18-20ga sheet metal) or brace the radiator in a different way

edit: might not be a problem for you with the body lift, but worth a double check
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Will do. Thanks for the advice. I’ll put some bracing in now while I’m there. The last two times I said it’ll be fine have come back to bite my in the hind.


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Discussion Starter #24
This damn weather! 75 and clear last night, 42 and raining tonight. Game 3, wings, and beer at Frank & Marley’s on the square. Halloween is in full swing here at Ole Miss. Nothing productive happening tonight.


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Discussion Starter #25

Had to do some additional trimming to the body mount and core support. I didn’t account for the 1/4” plate when I first cut. Made the fill plate and tacked in the. Went to work with the angle grinder.

Added rear support to the mount and burned everything in

4” angle grinders don’t fit well everywhere. Should be fine though

I also got the steering box mocked up in the new location. I didn’t get any pictures before ripping it back out to make a small tweak. Tie rod/drag link clearance is great. I ordered a a flat pitman arm and 14” bilstein 5125s this am.


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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)

New steering box location. Drag link/tie rod clearance is much better. Flat pitman arm should be here tomorrow and with any luck my shocks will too.


Picked up my driveshaft from NAPA today. I swapped out the double cardan for a single ujoint. And fedrilled the tcase flange for the new yoke.

On the transfer case side I used a yoke from tcase side on a rear 89 ext. cab shaft.

Used tubing from the same ‘89 shaft. It measures .098 on my Pittsburg digital caliper. I set it up with 3.25” of splines showing, like this I needed ~1” of tubing.

Still a lot to do before hawk pride this weekend. We’ll be there fri-sun with 6 or 8 rigs. Anyone else going to hawk pride this weekend?


Edit: added shaft specs and pic
 

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Discussion Starter #27

Last night I started installing the new front shock towers. I went with the low range towers bc I liked the plate construction, nice and beefy and matches my diff cover from them. Swapped to lower mounts out with some ruff stuff amounts I had on the shelf.

I’ll be using the stock bump stop pads on the frame side. They were easy to cutoff and will fit nicely in between the shock towers.




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I remember seein this truck when it was for sale awhile back. Not too many 1st gens around here. Especially with clean sheet metal
 

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New steering box location. Drag link/tie rod clearance is much better. Flat pitman arm should be here tomorrow and with any luck my shocks will too.


Picked up my driveshaft from NAPA today. I swapped out the double cardan for a single ujoint. And fedrilled the tcase flange for the new yoke.

On the transfer case side I used a yoke from tcase side on a rear 89 ext. cab shaft.

Used tubing from the same ‘89 shaft. It measures .098 on my Pittsburg digital caliper. I set it up with 3.25” of splines showing, like this I needed ~1” of tubing.

Still a lot to do before hawk pride this weekend. We’ll be there fri-sun with 6 or 8 rigs. Anyone else going to hawk pride this weekend?


Edit: added shaft specs and pic
Drive shaft is a little thin walled for railing on rocks. You might not beat your rig that much, but it's a good idea to make a spare square driveline for when it goes. I carry one that is good for front or rear on my rig and it gives me that warm fuzzy feeling inside.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Had a blast at Hawk Pride this weekend. Yotabo did great cept for separating the front driveshaft a couple of times :homer: Ended up throwing a ratchet strap around the frame and axle as a limiting strap for the trip. The RUF packs made the ride so much better and I didn't have tires rubbing into the firewall and rear of fender wells during flexing once. Thoroughly enjoyed it. HPO has lots of really fun trails and at around 2 hours one way isnt a bad weekend trip.

I'm going to be redoing the front driveshaft and I am going to make a spare while I'm at it out of square tubing. I think I set the shaft up wrong to begin with. It has a 10" male spline section and 12" female section. When I measured first time I put 3" of splines showing out of the slip leaving 7" of splines inside. I'm thinking I should have started with 3" of slip showing (not splines), This should give me an extra few inches of splined shaft mated together at full extension. Not saying for sure it would fix it, but it would sure help. My friend Greg seems to believe that I'll need a longer spline section to fix it. I'm hoping I can get it to work with what I already have. Will post pics of the trip later on.
 

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Discussion Starter #31 (Edited)


Front driveshaft wouldn’t stay in past halfway up upper ditch

Leading the group
and me sliding into the group pic just before the timer went off


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Where are you from? We wheel a lot of the same places.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
I remember seein this truck when it was for sale awhile back. Not too many 1st gens around here. Especially with clean sheet metal


Yep, I️ was surprised when I got there to see how good of shape it was in. Quick look over and test drive and it was on the trailer headed back south.


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Got a Facebook?
 

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Here's a short clip of our November 4 Hawk Pride trip. IIRC the trail is southern diamondback.

Nice group you've got there. Looks like you could do to take some pressure out of those tires! Also, how'd you rig up that front winch mount?

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Discussion Starter #39
Thanks yooper. I had them at 12 Psi for this trip, and the others I’ve been on. I’ll try 10 next time I️ go out. What pressure would you suggest? My only concern would be going too low without beadlocks.
As for the winch plat, its is welded to the front of the frame, then the front crossmember is reinforced top and bottom and gussets on the back side for extra support


These are the best pictures I️ can find right now



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If you find more pictures let me know, I've gotta go through and redo my front crossmember soon. It's always good to get some inspiration! With steel wheels you're probably pretty safe running 10 in the front and 5-7 in the rear. Just be conscious of turning real hard into a rock and pressing on the bead. Before I got beadlocks I'd run 7-10 in the front depending on conditions and 3-5 in the rear. But then again I'd always keep a hi-lift and starting fluid on me :grinpimp:

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