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Discussion Starter #1
mainly for those of you who have done any stretches up front. small, or large doesn't matter

currently im running 38s on about 6 inches of lift, and was thinking about flipping the rears, and pushing my RK 3-link mounts forward a couple inches to stretch the front about 2 inches.

problem im having is my tires dont rub the outer fenders at all, but the do on the inner wells up front. it doesn't bother me because the inner fender well up front is smooth so it doesn't cut the tires or anything, it just limits flex.

but the way the inner well is shaped if you stretch the front, you run into a "flat" area which would leave your tire with very little up travel, if any at all.

looking for ways to combat this

heres my fender trim..tire stuffs in perfectly at full compression. with slight rubbing at bottom near door

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa239/iwishihad1/n1563690294_30466156_8422.jpg
 

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You'll hit that rounded corner where the battery sits on one side and the air cleaner box on the other side. We make some slits in that corner, push/pound the sheetmetal back, then weld up the cuts where the sheetmetal is now overlapped. Pretty simple and is a good gain in clearance.
 

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I have noticed the only real method to get real clearance in our situations is to hack away and go with a one piece fiberglass front end. I am doing my 4th rig the same right now.
 

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I've never seen an XJ fiberglass front end. Pics, where, and how much?

Also, unless you're adding tube work, part of that stuff the tires are hitting is structural part of the unibody. We also sort of beat them, easier to replace a hood or fender I'd think. Simple comment to do what you said, but what are the details?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
goatman...any pics of this slit method you use. sounds like something i would easily be able to do at home and not have to fab up any filler sheetmetal. im just nore sure about what you do with the "corners" i guess you would call it.

it sounds like on the edge where the flat begins to go turn into the radius is where you made the slits and then hit it all up. did you fold over the outer edge?
 

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I ended up just cutting the inner fenders out, not so much for tire clearance but for rock clearance since I was ditching the fenders as well...

...I filled the gaping holes with some 18ga...

Obviously you'll have to remount some stuff if you cut as much as I did. ;)
 

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I ended up just cutting the inner fenders out, not so much for tire clearance but for rock clearance since I was ditching the fenders as well...

...I filled the gaping holes with some 18ga...

Obviously you'll have to remount some stuff if you cut as much as I did. ;)
Dang Jes, that thing has changed a little bit.




Where did you put the battery? In the back?
 

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I moved the battery to the firewall and used a Ruffstuff battery box to mount the yellowtop Optima...

I started with this but quickly realized I had to cut more of the front end as the inner fenders had hampered me on this particular trail...

So I cut, and cut some more.
Nevermind the garage skunge built up on the hood...

...still have to figure out how to mount the turn signal/running lights and have a little more rattle can action to go...

...but it is almost done(the front end that is).
 

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Discussion Starter #15
well thanks for showing that..but im looking for something A LOT more subtle then that. i want to keep a somewhat "factory" appearance up front. so i just want to do something small, and clear up about 2-3 inches where its currently rubbing.

also isn't that area pretty critical to the unibody structure? not saying you didn't build it well, i was just asking, because if it is, i need to make sure i do the job right
 

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jes did you remove your a/c compressor as well? i may do the same to lighten the jeep up some and make more room. i just rolled mine and messed up the ft fenders as well so i was thinking of removing them because they are in the way!!---BRIAN
 

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also isn't that area pretty critical to the unibody structure? not saying you didn't build it well, i was just asking, because if it is, i need to make sure i do the job right

Not really. There is a very obvious seam just foreward of the coil tower. From there back is critical, before it is not so much. It all sorta does something, but some of it doesn't do a lot. 18ga would be fine for that area if a guy does a half decent welding job. Not to mention once you throw tube at it, shit doesn't really matter as much anymore.
 

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beet them back with a sledge that wat i done hell with 31s and stock suspension the only place i rub it the dam control arms and the primer spot u can see in the pic where the coil sits
 

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Look like Chevy truck mirrors to me. Those wouldn't last five minutes on my rig in that spot.:D
 
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