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Discussion Starter #1
Running Yukon 70001 locking hubs on my RJ/SpiderTrax/Ford UB front.

F`ing Yukon locking hubs are a big PITA with getting unlocked. Most times I have to use a floor jack and screw around to get them unlcked. No ryhme or reason to which one will stick. Sometimes driver sometimes passenger.

The spindle/stub seals are doing there job. Used RTV to seal the outer bezel so no shit is getting inside the hubs. Everything is greased and the hub dials themselves turn freely.

Yukon sent replacement spindle lockout bushings/spacers when I bitched to them. They sent both the tall and the short bushing/spacers for free. Running the tall one now as have since new. The brass bushing on the drive gear is not worn so thats not an issue.

Anyone have luck with stacking both the tall and the short bushing/spacers ? That would push the lockout further apart but im not 100% convinced that what needs to happen. Once you get the drive/driven to unlock they work. Plus haven't looked to see what other fuckery might happen if I stack them. That gawt damn big ass spring you have to compress to get the stub snap ring on is a bitch. I have to get my GF to do it for me.

At this point I am considering going to the Warn 62672`s but dont know much about how well they lock and unlock or how tough they are.

Wadda you guys finding ? I know I`m not the only asshole that has bitched about the Yukons. Standard reply is make sure they are clean and greased with no burrs on the splines. yes, yes done that.............
 

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I unlock the hubs after I reach under and turn the front driveline a little. Then they unlock easy. Some guys back up to get slack in the drivetrain.

I think being a straight face tooth design there needs to be slack. Maybe some one will chime in with better knowledge about the why.

Edit: mine are for a live spindle setup but I can’t imgine they’re that much different.
 

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Most every issue I've seen with hubs being a PITA to turn, is the hub screws being too tight. Mine (Yukon Hardcore Hubs, same thing) are hand tight, and the hubs are easy enough to turn by hand. Haven't had an issue with them in all the wheeling I've done.

Back off those 6 screws some and see how it feels.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I unlock the hubs after I reach under and turn the front driveline a little. Then they unlock easy. Some guys back up to get slack in the drivetrain.

I think being a straight face tooth design there needs to be slack. Maybe some one will chime in with better knowledge about the why.

Edit: mine are for a live spindle setup but I can’t imgine they’re that much different.
Understand, with the tire up in the air I screw with turning the tire, locking the E locker and sometimes even having to engage the front drive, Atlas.

Have grabbed a hold of the driveshaft and twisted it back and forth also.

All this after going back and forth in the driveway trying to get the load off them before the floor jack comes out.

You would think that with the tire in the air and the TC in neutral/unlocked all the loading would be gone and they would unlock easily.............
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Most every issue I've seen with hubs being a PITA to turn, is the hub screws being too tight. Mine (Yukon Hardcore Hubs, same thing) are hand tight, and the hubs are easy enough to turn by hand. Haven't had an issue with them in all the wheeling I've done.

Back off those 6 screws some and see how it feels.
Replaced the dial o rings (from Yukon) and greased them up good. Also the 6 nylon washers behind the allen heads. Used a torque wrench to set the allens to the Yukon spec.....3-4 in/pounds IIRC. Dial moves freely back and forth so long as the lockout isn't under load which is reasonable.

Again, with the tire off the ground and the drivetrain unlocked there isn't any load. They should simply release no problem.

Best luck as been to lock the diff with the TC in gear and rock the tire back and forth while F`ing with the dial. Sometimes after they unlock if I spin the tire backwards they will lock back up again on there own.
 

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Replaced the dial o rings (from Yukon) and greased them up good. Also the 6 nylon washers behind the allen heads. Used a torque wrench to set the allens to the Yukon spec.....3-4 in/pounds IIRC. Dial moves freely back and forth so long as the lockout isn't under load which is reasonable.

Again, with the tire off the ground and the drivetrain unlocked there isn't any load. They should simply release no problem.

Best luck as been to lock the diff with the TC in gear and rock the tire back and forth while F`ing with the dial. Sometimes after they unlock if I spin the tire backwards they will lock back up again on there own.
Ok, so you likely don't have them too tight.

If mine are being a pain to turn, usually one hand on the tire and one on the dial is all that's needed. Rock the tire a hair, dial turns freely. Though, that's easier on something like a 40 than say...a 33.
 

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Yukon on my Dana 44 are tough to unlock without driving a little bit in 2wd. That or i turn the steering wheel one way or the other a little bit and they try and unlock them. Once one unlocks doing that the other is pretty easy.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Had a good conversation with Gus at Yukon.

We were able to ID a couple of potential issues.

I need to take everything apart and inspect the brass bushing on the gear. Seems that if there is any wear on the brass the wheel bearing may be "worn". A worn bearing would put a vertical load on a part that isn't supposed to have any load. Binding the inner and outer gears preventing them from sliding apart.

The distance from the base of the UB to the snap ring on the stub with a bunch of aftermarket parts, like I`m using, the stack up might require a touch of additional spacer thickness. Yukon`s spacers are .400 and .200. Running the .400 now but might need .450/500. Doubling up on the Yukon spacers (600) would likely be too thick.
This can be measured and figured out once everything is apart.
 

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I have the same issue with one side on my 79 Ford 60. Usually I have to put it in 2wd and go in reverse and forward with the wheels straight and it will unlock.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/1103785-yukon-hardcore-locking-hubs-install.html has some good info.

Yukon added an additional part to the assembly.

Pages 11 of the linked docs, 15 vs 16 parts.

https://docdro.id/XqXw3om

https://docdro.id/HkFJX83
Thanks guys, will take the hub apart and look into this. Sure does seem that there is not enough spacer. Even when pushing in on the cam plate the hub wont always unlock. Nice seeing that there are other folks having the same issue and how they fixed it.

I don't have the spring retainer (16) in the drawing that is used with non UB hubs. Wondering how the two styles compare in the spring preload ?

Need to check (and my gut is telling me I have more than .200) float between the retainer plate and spacer #12 on the manual.

.800 ? The guy from Yukon claims the guts hub wont have enough room to install the spindle snap ring at anything over .500 ish. Clearly he hasn't seen all the combinations.
 

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.800 ? The guy from Yukon claims the guts hub wont have enough room to install the spindle snap ring at anything over .500 ish. Clearly he hasn't seen all the combinations.
There's plenty of room in my setup. I'm running a Currie UB which is a machined Ford to 5x5.5. Nothing too fancy there. And yes, I'm positive that it's .800". With just .400" I had to rock the tires to get them to unlock. Now, it works perfectly just by turning the dial.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
There's plenty of room in my setup. I'm running a Currie UB which is a machined Ford to 5x5.5. Nothing too fancy there. And yes, I'm positive that it's .800". With just .400" I had to rock the tires to get them to unlock. Now, it works perfectly just by turning the dial.
Stan @ Branik did my UB`s to 5 on 5 1/2. Likely the same as your Curries.

Only thing I can think that might be different between us is the snap ring groove on the stub. Running SpiderTrax D60 stubs but not sure on the length or groove.

Have .200 and .400`s to play with so no harm in trying them. .600 or even .800 out.
 

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Standard reply is make sure they are clean and greased with no burrs on the splines. yes, yes done that.............
how you grease them does matter.

excess grease can make unlocking harder due to grease's "suction" holding them engaged.

I have this same part# as you in my truck for over 5 years and never failed to function, always lock and unlock just like should.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
how you grease them does matter.

excess grease can make unlocking harder due to grease's "suction" holding them engaged.

I have this same part# as you in my truck for over 5 years and never failed to function, always lock and unlock just like should.
x2 ive had this problem, a thin coat over everything is all it needs
Used regular Valvoline wheel bearing, u joint, chassis grease. While not packed the parts are well lubed. NOT the tacky grease. That stuff would fuck things up in a hub no doubt.
 

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how different are your front to back gear ratios?
Auto or air/electric lockers?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Both are S60 538`s from Currie stuffed in RJ housings with Eaton E Lockers.
 
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