[bent70]

I swapped out my 30 frontend a while ago due to fawked brackets and what not.
I tossed in a narrowed (59"wms-wms)rc44 with cast C's. Cut some old eb radius arms and welded plate to them to adapt to my current longarms.pics adaption
Now I am pulling the 44 and putting in the revamped 30 to get the fawker back on the road again and hopefully into a buyers hands asap. Cheaper for me in the longrun too since I won't have to do cutting and driveshaft work. Plus I can sell the rc44 and matching 9in. for more than a 30/35 combo.
new brackets on the 30
I will be adding bronco lower coil cups to these.

 

[gripguru]

specs on the 9"?

 

[Kensoffroad]

I hope some of those pictures are not fiished welds there is some scary shit there.

 

[bent70]

9in. is out of an eb 58.5" wms-wms 28spl.
Big bearing housing fresh pads and new hardware (drums)
4.10 with a spool or it welded I can't tell. I don't want to strip the whole diff just to find out its either or the two. My guess is it's a spool.

 

[bent70]

I hope some of those pictures are not fiished welds there is some scary shit there.

Whats wrong, please explain cause I would like to know the reasoning for it being scary.
thanks

 

[Kensoffroad]

The weld quality is lacking unless the ones I am talkin about are tack welds as mentioned before I do like the C bushing bracket Idea though.

 

[bent70]

Which one are you talking about?
I have not chiped any of the slag off and around the welds yet. The welds that hold the top plates on to the top are the crappyist ones cause I cut the plate a tad to bit wide so I was basicly vertical welding. I also was a rushed pass. I am planning on flipping the ale upside down and get some deeper penatrating welds on the inside. The welds to the axle tube have very good penatration and almost look like mig quality except where I stopped and continued to keep from warping the puny tubes.
oh yea I am using a stick welder.:barf: Good penitration just not as pretty.:flipoff2:

Thanks about the radius arm bracket. I always hear people complaining about getting around them and figured why can't I just do what I did. I've never seen someone make something simaler. I assume it would work like normal brackets, too bad I won't be using the axle.

 

[Kensoffroad]

on mine i just added to the length of the radius arm by useing a sleeve over the threaded end which bolted on with a nut welded on both ends and plug welded to the original arm. Thne i went over this with some .250 wall tubing plug welded and full circle welded to the inner sleeve. and put a large johny joint on the end which tied in to a cross member here is a vague picture of what it looks like on the rig. The rear is still needing to be adressed with more lift(now it only has about 6 ") and alot of the sheet metal is being removed. For reference those are bald 35s

 

[bent70]

Alright, I was thinking of the doing something simaler but, I would have had to relocate my front mounts on the subframe inboard to a new t/cass crossmember that I didn't want to make.
yours sounds simaler to a kit from Bent and twisted offroad I've seen minus the jj joint. Looks nice. Are you going to wider axles for more stability at your intended height?
Have you thought about a shackle flip for the rear, that may put you at teh height you need to makeup.

 

[Kensoffroad]

Those are 79 bronco axles so the are 65.5" wide as for the rear lift I am going to go with some shackles and a slapper bar set up that should give me about 4" more lift. It will be about 10.5-11 total. later on in the year I am going to convert the rear to coils using rear TJ springs.

 

[bent70]

sounds good. With the angle of the pic you can't really tell depth. With your cast c's centers further apart I assure the mounts would be just inboarded of the "frame" rail. With the spread of my C's the mounts would have been 2-4" out of the center of the x-member.