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If you can, would you mind getting a picture showing how the Atlas is clocked with the factory adapter? Is it flat? I am doing the exact same thing as you right now. 6.0/4l80/atlas in JHF chassis When i called Advanced about this to get their thoughts they said the GM adapter was clocked different than jeep and it would not clock flat. I suspected i was getting a sales answer, but i dont have my atlas yet to check it.

FYI i did not weld my sub frame yet as i think i need to move it a few inches from where Drew has it so the front square tube sits between the trans/engine with a little more clearance. I'm thinking the rear of the engine will sit pretty close to the "windshield" spreader bar.
 

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No $500 adapter needed, just a little trimming.

Could you grab a length from bellhousing to end of adapter? Also a length from bellhousing to yoke would be good too, if you don't mind.

Excited to see this combo in the JHF buggy! Should have plenty of pop. You're making this look easy. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #106
Could you grab a length from bellhousing to end of adapter? Also a length from bellhousing to yoke would be good too, if you don't mind.

Excited to see this combo in the JHF buggy! Should have plenty of pop. You're making this look easy. :D
28” bellhousing to adapter, 40.5” bellhousing to ujoint.
 

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Discussion Starter #107
If you can, would you mind getting a picture showing how the Atlas is clocked with the factory adapter? Is it flat? I am doing the exact same thing as you right now. 6.0/4l80/atlas in JHF chassis When i called Advanced about this to get their thoughts they said the GM adapter was clocked different than jeep and it would not clock flat. I suspected i was getting a sales answer, but i dont have my atlas yet to check it.

FYI i did not weld my sub frame yet as i think i need to move it a few inches from where Drew has it so the front square tube sits between the trans/engine with a little more clearance. I'm thinking the rear of the engine will sit pretty close to the "windshield" spreader bar.
It's not exactly flat, actually kicked up just a little. I'm going to adjust the clocking ring until I find a sweet spot, I was just checking to ensure I trimmed enough off.

 

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It's not exactly flat, actually kicked up just a little. I'm going to adjust the clocking ring until I find a sweet spot, I was just checking to ensure I trimmed enough off.
Thanks That answers a couple questions i had. There's more room between the yoke and the trans pan than i was thinking with a passenger drop. (my setup is pass drop as well) I was dreading the idea of a 2 piece front driveshaft. Looks like that wont be necessary.
 

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28” bellhousing to adapter, 40.5” bellhousing to ujoint.
Thanks, that's perfect. :smokin: FWIW, 4L60E length is at 26.5" with AA adapter so this is only 1.5" longer. A short output Atlas/4L80E would put it at roughly the same length. Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #111 (Edited)
My Vette pan is the widest/shallowest LS pan I've ever seen, and it wasn't going to work with the skids. So I tried to find another cheap option, and sadly a used Fbody pan and baffle was the same price as most aftermarket pans. I ran one of these on the LQ4 in my last buggy and it survived a hard hit on a boulder that cracked the T350 bellhousing, so I figured I'd just run another one on this buggy. They seem to be backordered everywhere, but Wide Open Design had some on the shelf so I snagged it.

I ordered the $120 eBay headers everyone is ordering for these, and got the wrong ones. So they sent me a return label and said they're making it right. Hope to have those back along with the new 150tunes harness Wayne is making me soon. Drew said my trusses came in and should be shipping soon, so should have a full roller in a few weeks.

 

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I ordered the $120 eBay headers everyone is ordering for these, and got the wrong ones.
I was getting ready to order headers and found a lot of different ones too. I held off becasue im sure i would get the wrong ones.
Got a link or part # to the correct ones?

Edit:I see your's is the 3 hole flange. I was trying to find the V-band clamp style like Jesse did. All i seem to find is the forward facing turbo headers.
 

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I was getting ready to order headers and found a lot of different ones too. I held off becasue im sure i would get the wrong ones.
Got a link or part # to the correct ones?

Edit:I see your's is the 3 hole flange. I was trying to find the V-band clamp style like Jesse did. All i seem to find is the forward facing turbo headers.
eBay 714167798
 

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Discussion Starter #116
I was getting ready to order headers and found a lot of different ones too. I held off becasue im sure i would get the wrong ones.
Got a link or part # to the correct ones?

Edit:I see your's is the 3 hole flange. I was trying to find the V-band clamp style like Jesse did. All i seem to find is the forward facing turbo headers.
Jesse and Michael cut the flange off and welded on vbands.

eBay 714167798
Incorrect

 

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The cheap headers from ebay will work. But like Ronald said. You have to cut the ends off and weld a bend on with a clamp. The V-clamps work great.
 

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Discussion Starter #120
Ahh I missed that part trying to sort through the FB build. So now looking back he did run the turbo headers. Makes sense. I think they would stay up higher and out of the way better anyway. Thanks
No, that’s not what I’m saying. Jesse “did not” run the turbo headers. He ran the truck swap that both dump out of the back. Then he cut the three bolt flange off and welded on vbands. The turbo headers hit and won’t work.
 
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