Traded a m&p 40c for the axles out of a 2008 f250. Planning on running a spool in the front and hooking up the vacuum hubs to act like a selectable locker, and a detroit in the rear with 5.13 gears. Truck has the stock 5.4 and 4r70w trans. Still trying to figure out transfer cases. I picked up a 205 Wednesday. Wanting to run a 203 doubler or strong box.

 

A couple pictures from its final trip with ifs. Hidden falls in texas

 

 

Using 1.9" x .4" schedule xx pipe for the radius arms. Frame side is using 1 1/4 heims and the factory axle mounts.

 

I used 2.5" x 1/4 flat bar to make the axle side brackets.

 

 

 

Got the front end torn down and old bracketed cut off. This has been the hardest part so far. This is my first "build" so cutting things off with no going back was a little nerve racking.

 

 

 

 

Little comparison of the old and new brakes. It's going to be nice having good brakes again.

 

Had to modify the transmission crossmember for the radius arms. After I built this I realized it won't clear the drive shaft. Rookie mistake I know. But I'm planning in building new crossmember when I get the tcase plan sorted out so it's ok.

 

 

 

 

Built this temporary crossmember out of 2x4 1/8" to test my idea. Wanted to mount the radius arms back were the torsion bar mount was. Planning on building the real crossmember out if 2x4 3/16" and incorporate the t-case mount into it as well. And the radius arm tabs will also be better reinforced and thicker probably use the ballistic fab 90* tabs

 

 

Here are the finished arms need to be cleaned up and painted

 

Some Christmas goodies must have been a good boy this year. 12" 2.5 sway aways

 

Ruff stuff shackle flip for the rear

 

Ballistic front cover

 

Cool, the more 05+ 60's on the trail the better for aftermarket support.

 

I'm jealous. I've wanted to put the same axle under the same truck for some time now. What are your plans for the steering? There's not much room around the pitman arm the way it faces rearward.

 

I currently have the factory box moved forward so that the back hole in box is now in the front hole in frame with a 4" drop pitman arm. I'm waiting for my drag link and pitman arm to get finished at machine shop..... Supposed to be done 2 weeks ago!!! I also picked up a late 80's f150 box with pitman arm facing forward and bolted it up in the stock location. My concern with it is that the pitman arm sticks out about 6" infront of the tierod seems too far but would like advice on what option will work best. I also think the 4" drop will be too much but we will see when it gets done.
I am using the factory f250 tierod and passenger draglink end and adjuster. I am using 1" schedule xx pipe which is 1.3" od .36" wall. I am having that turned down to slide into the adjuster sleeve so I can weld it in and the other side is being threaded for a left hand chevy pitman arm end I believe it was es2027L. I didn't want to buy a reamer so I bought the tapered insert from ruffstuff. Drill a 1" hole and press the insert in.