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From ZJ to Buggy build

39K views 44 replies 17 participants last post by  waynehartwig  
#1 · (Edited)
Hey all, so after much thought I have decided to build myself a tube chassis and use my current ZJ (build thread here) as a donor rig for the buggy. The ZJ is just too heavy and in order to get it anywhere near where I would like, it would take a shit-ton of work...not that a buggy won't, if anything it'll be more work/time, but I think I'll be happier with the end result.

I'm planning to build this to Ultra4 specs, just in case I ever get the urge to try my luck and race in one...however, it'll mostly be a trail-rig so I will build it to serve that purpose foremost.

Planned Specs:
4-seater
109-110" WB
6.0L LY6 Engine
6L90E Transmission
Full-hydro
Front CRD60 with Reid C's and Knuckles
Rear 14 Bolt
39"-42" Krawler Reds
ORI struts

I should be starting on this by the end of the month. My plan is to have the chassis done this winter, then collect needed parts next summer and swap everything next winter...

Here is the design I've come up with for it. The gray tubing is 2" .120 DOM, orange is 1.5" .120 DOM, and black is 2" .250 Square (subframe). There will be gussets in corners that need it, and some of the tubing that isn't structural may change slightly but the bare-bones of the chassis will resemble this. According to Bend-Tech, this is a total of 211' of 2" DOM, 54' of 1.5" DOM and 15' of square for the subframe. Total weight is 675 lbs.

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I'm open to all comments as this is my first full tube chassis design and build and I'm sure there is some criticism that I have not yet thought of. Yes, I know this opens me up to a world of flaming :flipoff2:...but I'd rather post up now and get any ideas/thoughts before starting the build.

Tyler
 
#3 ·
So I've got a question for some of the Ultra4 guys out there and anyone that would be involved in tech inspection.

I'm sure my build will come in over the 4400# mark so I'm building the chassis out of 2" .120 DOM with some 1.5" .120 DOM in some places. My question is if the 1.5" tubing I have in part of the design will be an issue for tech inspection? Mostly referring to the A-pillar and windshield bars. I did this mainly for better visibility, but 2" could be thrown in there if need be (although I'd rather 1.5").

Thoughts?
 
#6 ·
Good call. I'll most likely do those pieces in 2" square tube as well so it's easier to mount skins/UHMW to as well.

I would reconsider the wheelbase length. That is super long. I would suggest 106-109" if you want this to perform exceptionally well as a trail wheeler. I ran 109 and then dropped to 103 and the places I could go was night and day difference. I'm running 105 now and notice it way more stable in the higher speeds than 103. If your only going to dabble in ultra 4 I would keep it smaller and more nimble.

Keep all the main tube 2" and you will be fine for tech.
I definitely understand the shorter wheelbase, but I've gotta keep it 4-seater to keep the wife fully on-board ha. If this were strictly going to be Ultra 4, then I would make it a small 2-seater like your new bad ass rig. I don't expect to do more than one or two Ultra 4 races in this though..but if I'm building one, I might as well build it to spec just in case.
 
#5 ·
I would reconsider the wheelbase length. That is super long. I would suggest 106-109" if you want this to perform exceptionally well as a trail wheeler. I ran 109 and then dropped to 103 and the places I could go was night and day difference. I'm running 105 now and notice it way more stable in the higher speeds than 103. If your only going to dabble in ultra 4 I would keep it smaller and more nimble.

Keep all the main tube 2" and you will be fine for tech.
 
#7 ·
Chassis lines look very nice.

Not a big deal, but one thing I would change, at least from my Juggy, would be squaring off the bottom of the rear section on the cage.

Looking back, it would be much easier to add a tailgate, or fit a tote, tool box. Yours is 90*, so it might be easier than mine, which is at an angle.
 
#8 ·
Alright, based on some input I've made some changes to the chassis. Shortened the whole chassis up as much as I can and was able to get a shorter wheelbase for better cone-dodging. My currently rig is 112" so I think I'll like the ~109" wheelbase.

The grey tube being 2" .120 DOM, orange 1.5" .120 DOM, green is 1.5" .188 DOM, black is 2" .250 square.

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#9 ·
whats the width on the belly?

also i'd run a 9" belly i have 10" right now. it could be a tid bit shallower.
 
#10 ·
Good to know. I had it at 10" on the first build, just moved it down a bit for estimating. I figure the belly will be the last thing I build, and will be attached around the time I actually throw the power train in...

For the dimensions I currently have it setup at 34" wide and 32" long.
 
#12 ·
I'm 28" wide for mine. It's about as narrow as you can go. The motor is offset .5" to the driver side to fit the passenger side drive shaft.

That's 28" to the outside.
 
#19 ·
Got a bit more work done tonight.

Can't believe I didn't purchase this for the other cages I've done. $40 well spent.
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My current welder of choice is the Ready Welder.....mainly because the Lincoln is at my brother's house currently. Plus I'm only tack-welding everything right now. I'll MIG it when all is said and done.
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#29 ·
Just about ready to fully weld the cab. Should finish the last few supports tonight. Next step after that will be picking up an engine/trans combo and start fitting it.

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