I prefer the 2" square tube method only because I hate angle grinders with a passion.

Favorite 2" square tube. Favorite welder. Favorite pipe wrench.

Welding the pipe to the kingpin gets it hot enough. Walked it off like it wasn't even torqued.

This was after splitting the kingpin with the nut and bolt trick and every other home remedy.

 

I prefer the 2" square tube method
...

Digging up a really old thread to say thanks for this, wherever it originated. It didn't save me from the first day or 2 of ghetto-tool-fab retardation, but it was nearly effortless.

:smokin:

 

i just used a big hex key

 

this big?

 

Damn, that is a big ass hex key
I am a cheap ass with access to a torch, so I heated mine up and they fell out
Total time 10 minutes, but I got to play with fire, so it was worth it

 

not to hyjack, but I read on another kingpin rebuild post that if the cones arent that bad not to screw with them, so here are some pics of my driverside and I was wondering if it is still cool to run or should I pop the bitch out.

 

Can't find any crazy hex stock, don't want to use a lugnut or whatever?

Many cold chisels are 7/8" HARD hex stock. Chopsaw to length and tack into a 7/8 socket. The whole shebang should cost less than $5 and you should still have some chisel for cutting/driving stuff out.

If it's REAL stubborn, weld the hex stock to the kingpin and the heat should free it up so you can do the above cutoff wheel trick or continue with long cheater pipes. If the hex gets welded, grind off tack and cutoff some more from the chisel and tack it into the socket for the other side.

Worked great on my RUSTY, sitting in a field shiat.

 

Your in that far. Might as well do the whole job.

 

i made the really big hex allen and heat, with a cheater bar as well, bent it :mad3: and then said screw loaded up the axle went to the les schwab tire store that a freind of mine works at. and he used one of those trucker impacts that are almost the size of a jack hammer and it pulled them right off and then put the new ones right back in took all of about 25 minutes with the drive time of twenty minutes. which really sucks considering i spent an hour and a half on them the night before.:shaking:

 

so a pipe wrench around the base of the kingpin, heat and a big fawkin cheater? I feel like a stupid fawker, I had a 1/2 breaker bar and like 4 foot of cheater. i think that kingpin is still laughing at me. When I pulled the driver side apart there was some funky little thing sitting in the kinpin. I didint have one in the other side and I didnt see it with the rebuild kits or anything. It looks like a castle nut on both sides, I am not sure what it is. May be part of it though, any know?

 

Yep I used a 36" pipe wrench around the base, a little heat and gave the wrench a few whacks with a BFH, they came right out

 

What has always worked for me is just a 1 ton lug nut. fits right in the hole.

Then bring out my big impct gun and wamo!! done..

I have front and rear strear they all came out this way when they laughed at a BIG pipe wrench...:cool2:

 

anyone have a pic of how the lugnut fits in there? im trying to imagine it in my head and im getting no where, i just dont see how a lug nut would work?

 

No you didnt!

1 ton lug nuts are pretty long. I'd imagine the top of the lug nut sits out of the top of the kingpin. Find an impact socket to fit over the lug nut, connect it to your favorite impact gun and voila

And we have a WINNER

 

1 ton lug nuts are pretty long. I'd imagine the top of the lug nut sits out of the top of the kingpin. Find an impact socket to fit over the lug nut, connect it to your favorite impact gun and voila

 

this is what worked for me... i had a 3/4" impact gun...

 

my bad i was thinking of a lug nut like this

Didnt even remember that a 1 ton doesnt have the flange that sticks out because its bigger.

 

OK, well then nevermind my last statement

 

Glad it went smooth. We don't all get that lucky. This was using a huge hex key, a torch, and a 6' cheater bar.

Ended up welding a big bar to it and eventually it came out with more heat and 2 guys. These Michigan winters, I tell ya.

 

Not enough heat on the knuckle. If so, there wouldn't be any grease left!

I heat the shit out of them and then go away for an hour, come back and twist them out with a 1/2" ratchet and lugnut. Life is too short to fuck around. :grinpimp:

 

I had pretty good luck with the hex stock/key method, heating the outermost part of the inner C to help break the grip on the kingpin itself and getting on it with a 3 foot cheater ba. The real key is to prevent heat from reaching whatever part it is you're trying to remove.r

 

I turn the axle over with the thread end exposed. I take and heat the the king pin inside the hex area and use candle wax or para-fin wax on the thread in end. The heat draws in the wax... let cool and flip over take my 7/8 hex socket from proto and my titanium 1/2 impact and wallah it is out.

 

Welding a chunk of 2" square is the easiest way!

 

X2
works great!

 

I like that idea
relieve the torque by removing the material that is pullling on the threads

 

You guys have wayyyy to many tools to do this. I just get a good grip with my hand and twist :flipoff2:

 

Yeah....we aren't full of shit are we?:laughing:

 

I just use an 80 dollar snap on 7/8 hex impact socket, and my $400 ingersol rand 3/4" impact from work. The impact i kind of have to have anyway so no biggie, i was kind of mad about buying the socket, but then i realized it comes in handy for a lot of things, i use it a lot as a spacer to press bearings and such. If i break it, eh, fuck it, it's snap-on, they warrenty it.

 

git er done!
I'll show you the easy way!
I used a 7/8" allen wrench, split the head wide open
tried a 24" pipe wrench and a 10' pipe it thretened to fall off the jackstand...
Then I got a brilliant Idea!!!

use a 1 1/2 ton comalong with a sling thru the eye of the comalong handle to a hook on the bumper! aprox. 3 foot TONS! popped it like it was nothing.
3 foot tons = 6000 ft/lbs (aprox) I have lifted 3 tons with a 1 1/2 ton comalong
(not recomended)

Enjoy!

 

that is awsome. :grinpimp:

 

Brilliant idea...use my winch!!! :smokin:

 

wow. ive actually used the comealong for crap like this before. thank god my king pins looked new and i dont have to do any of this yet

 

Here's what I do. Cut a hole in a piece of flat bar approx. 1/4" thick or thicker, about a foot long or so and make the hole just a little smaller than the base of the cone. Weld that sucker on there and smack the edge of the flat bar a couple of times with a hammer then just turn it out. Never failed me yet.

 

I got pissed when I fawked the kp up and couldnt grip it well with a pipe wrench, so I welded the fawkin pipe wrench to the king pin. 6foot of cheater and I pulled that bastard off. I think ground off the welds and still use the pipe wrench today. It is bent to fawk though :laughing:

 

the setup my buddies have used was always pretty simple.

had a few 19" x3/4" grade 8 bolts laying around, heated one up and bent it into and "L" then ground the hex part down from 1 1/8, to 7/8's. Hammer into king pin, slide on 6 foot pipe, and BANG kingpin breaks free.