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Old 02-20-2007, 09:07 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Dana 60 kingpin removal. The easy way.

Okay, I thought I would post this and pics to let everyone know what I have determinded to be the easiest way to remove a Dana 60 kingpin without a cutting torch, any kind of heat or 8 foot cheater bars.
(This one I owe to JMHinesCJ, it was his idea).

During this process, I tried 7 feet of cheater on my 3/4" breaker bar and broke the breaker bar. I also snapped my 7/8" x 9/16" acorn lug nut in half.
I didn't have access to a cutting torch for heat, so I drilled a 1/2" x 1/2" hole in the bottom side of the kingpin and filled it with weld to get it red hot.
Broke the lugnut after that.

So here is what works:
-Get a 4 inch angle grinder and a very thin cutting disc. Cut a deep groove all the way around the kingpin that goes to the shank. Make cut ALMOST to the underside of the kingpin head where the kingpin touches the C (see pic)
Once cut is made (about 3/8" deep), take lug nut, insert in kingpin, put 3/4 inch ratchet and 7/8" socket on it and give a small tug. It will break loose.
Total time takes about 3 minutes per kingpin.
No heat, no broken tools.
Good luck!
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Old 02-20-2007, 09:12 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I prefer the 2" square tube method only because I hate angle grinders with a passion.

Favorite 2" square tube. Favorite welder. Favorite pipe wrench.

Welding the pipe to the kingpin gets it hot enough. Walked it off like it wasn't even torqued.




This was after splitting the kingpin with the nut and bolt trick and every other home remedy.
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Old 02-20-2007, 09:16 PM   #3 (permalink)
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i just used a big hex key
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Old 02-20-2007, 09:23 PM   #4 (permalink)
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i just used a big hex key
this big?

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Old 02-20-2007, 09:28 PM   #5 (permalink)
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i just used a big hex key

that requires a cheater bar and it's not uncommon to split the king pin apart. 24" pipe wrench right around the base of the pin and at least a 6' cheater. heating the inner c helps to expand it's grip also. and two buddies standing on the axle to hold it down
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Old 02-20-2007, 09:29 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Damn, that is a big ass hex key
I am a cheap ass with access to a torch, so I heated mine up and they fell out
Total time 10 minutes, but I got to play with fire, so it was worth it
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Old 02-20-2007, 09:30 PM   #7 (permalink)
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this big?



good luck with that caddy wampus tool
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Old 02-20-2007, 09:31 PM   #8 (permalink)
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good luck with that caddy wampus tool
Worked on the other side with some heat and a blow to the C. Also allowed me to install my new ones. I still have it if you would like me to send it over.
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Last edited by Dookey; 02-20-2007 at 09:32 PM.
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Old 02-20-2007, 09:37 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Worked on the other side with some heat and a blow to the C. Also allowed me to install my new ones. I still have it if you would like me to send it over.


wait till you try one that's tight .

the allen hole will break all around. then where will you be? i'll tell you where. looking for the pipe wrench like your first post.

that allen will work great for putting them back on.
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Old 02-20-2007, 10:18 PM   #10 (permalink)
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this big?

I made one, not that big though, and it was a pain. I ended up twisting it where it was bent. So I cut off a 2" piece and used an impact socket and cheater bar with some heat. Worked much better.
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Old 02-20-2007, 10:25 PM   #11 (permalink)
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not to hyjack, but I read on another kingpin rebuild post that if the cones arent that bad not to screw with them, so here are some pics of my driverside and I was wondering if it is still cool to run or should I pop the bitch out.





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Old 02-20-2007, 10:29 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Can't find any crazy hex stock, don't want to use a lugnut or whatever?

Many cold chisels are 7/8" HARD hex stock. Chopsaw to length and tack into a 7/8 socket. The whole shebang should cost less than $5 and you should still have some chisel for cutting/driving stuff out.

If it's REAL stubborn, weld the hex stock to the kingpin and the heat should free it up so you can do the above cutoff wheel trick or continue with long cheater pipes. If the hex gets welded, grind off tack and cutoff some more from the chisel and tack it into the socket for the other side.

Worked great on my RUSTY, sitting in a field shiat.
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Old 02-20-2007, 10:31 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Your in that far. Might as well do the whole job.
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Old 02-20-2007, 10:38 PM   #14 (permalink)
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i made the really big hex allen and heat, with a cheater bar as well, bent it and then said screw loaded up the axle went to the les schwab tire store that a freind of mine works at. and he used one of those trucker impacts that are almost the size of a jack hammer and it pulled them right off and then put the new ones right back in took all of about 25 minutes with the drive time of twenty minutes. which really sucks considering i spent an hour and a half on them the night before.
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Old 02-20-2007, 10:58 PM   #15 (permalink)
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so a pipe wrench around the base of the kingpin, heat and a big fawkin cheater? I feel like a stupid fawker, I had a 1/2 breaker bar and like 4 foot of cheater. i think that kingpin is still laughing at me. When I pulled the driver side apart there was some funky little thing sitting in the kinpin. I didint have one in the other side and I didnt see it with the rebuild kits or anything. It looks like a castle nut on both sides, I am not sure what it is. May be part of it though, any know?
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Old 02-21-2007, 06:30 AM   #16 (permalink)
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so a pipe wrench around the base of the kingpin, heat and a big fawkin cheater? I feel like a stupid fawker, I had a 1/2 breaker bar and like 4 foot of cheater. i think that kingpin is still laughing at me. When I pulled the driver side apart there was some funky little thing sitting in the kinpin. I didint have one in the other side and I didnt see it with the rebuild kits or anything. It looks like a castle nut on both sides, I am not sure what it is. May be part of it though, any know?

Yep I used a 36" pipe wrench around the base, a little heat and gave the wrench a few whacks with a BFH, they came right out
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Old 02-21-2007, 07:00 AM   #17 (permalink)
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What has always worked for me is just a 1 ton lug nut. fits right in the hole.

Then bring out my big impct gun and wamo!! done..

I have front and rear strear they all came out this way when they laughed at a BIG pipe wrench...

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Old 02-21-2007, 07:16 AM   #18 (permalink)
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anyone have a pic of how the lugnut fits in there? im trying to imagine it in my head and im getting no where, i just dont see how a lug nut would work?
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Old 02-21-2007, 08:29 AM   #19 (permalink)
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1 ton lug nuts are pretty long. I'd imagine the top of the lug nut sits out of the top of the kingpin. Find an impact socket to fit over the lug nut, connect it to your favorite impact gun and voila
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Old 02-21-2007, 10:08 AM   #20 (permalink)
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anyone have a pic of how the lugnut fits in there? im trying to imagine it in my head and im getting no where, i just dont see how a lug nut would work?
No you didnt!
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1 ton lug nuts are pretty long. I'd imagine the top of the lug nut sits out of the top of the kingpin. Find an impact socket to fit over the lug nut, connect it to your favorite impact gun and voila
And we have a WINNER
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Old 02-21-2007, 10:13 AM   #21 (permalink)
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my bad i was thinking of a lug nut like this


Didnt even remember that a 1 ton doesnt have the flange that sticks out because its bigger.
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Old 02-21-2007, 10:23 AM   #22 (permalink)
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my bad i was thinking of a lug nut like this


Didnt even remember that a 1 ton doesnt have the flange that sticks out because its bigger.
OK, well then nevermind my last statement
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Old 02-22-2007, 03:21 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Glad it went smooth. We don't all get that lucky. This was using a huge hex key, a torch, and a 6' cheater bar.



Ended up welding a big bar to it and eventually it came out with more heat and 2 guys. These Michigan winters, I tell ya.

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Old 03-26-2007, 03:13 PM   #24 (permalink)
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I had pretty good luck with the hex stock/key method, heating the outermost part of the inner C to help break the grip on the kingpin itself and getting on it with a 3 foot cheater ba. The real key is to prevent heat from reaching whatever part it is you're trying to remove.r
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Old 03-27-2007, 09:46 AM   #25 (permalink)
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I turn the axle over with the thread end exposed. I take and heat the the king pin inside the hex area and use candle wax or para-fin wax on the thread in end. The heat draws in the wax... let cool and flip over take my 7/8 hex socket from proto and my titanium 1/2 impact and wallah it is out.
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