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project: family fun buggy

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34K views 106 replies 31 participants last post by  dobsogj  
#1 ·
I have been beatin on my toy for a while now, and while it still has a lot of life left, its time for a new rig. I have 2 boys now, 2 and 3 years old. So, its time for a 4 seater. A buddy bought some parts and a toyota that we were gonna build. We got to talking while we were getting started, and I mentioned that I needed a 4 seater. Long story, but I ended up with his parts, and he ended up with my rig. It was a good deal for both of us. I was gonna part mine out ot sell it. I am pretty attached to it, so at least I know it has a good home. :grinpimp:
Heres the parts list:
Atlas 3.8 4 speed, aluminum 5.3 from an '06 truck, th400 art car manual VB.
60/14 with 5.13s, arbs, chromos in front, rear is shaved, front has the pinion turned up. Built by John Sumner at Sumner Machine Works, (formerly of wagoner machine.
PSC full hydro
42" TSLs for now off of my old rig
double tri 4 link rear with balistic joints both ends. 3 link with P/H front with balistic joints at the axle, and bushings at the frame.

Oh....and most importantly, so I stick to my yota roots, a fiberglass FJ 40 hood and grill. Dont know who made it, got it off of ebay.

I have been working on it for 8 months or so, but Im just now getting around to taking pics and posting them. I hate the build threads that drag out for ever.
 

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#2 · (Edited)
I started by building a frame from 2X4. I had a tub that I was gonna run, but decided, fook it, Im going all tube. But I had already built the frame, so I decided to use it, and build the chassis on it. Plus I wanted to leave door openings, and I think the full frame will help give it more structure. Im sure some will say I have went a little over board on the tube, but Im hauling my kids, so...... I still have a few pieces to put in. I need to tie the B and C pillars into the frame. Most of the tube is 1.75 X .120 DOM, but there is some 1.5 X .120 also.
 

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#3 · (Edited)
I wanted to run the FJ clip. But, since its a family rig, and I needed the room, I wanted the buggy to be a little wider than the FJ cowl would alow. So, I split the hood, and hinged it in the middle to widen it. The filler piece in the middle is 1/8" X 1" square tube, and is tied back throgh the cowl to the console, so it helps give the chassis more structure. Plus, it protects the engine. Im not loving the hinges. I spent half a day fabbing some hidden ones that didnt work. So I went to atwoods and got these. I think they will look Ok when they are painted.
 

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#4 · (Edited)
Atlas 4 speed and console. Still gotta skin it. The square pieces of sheet metal where the dash goes will be trimmed off. They are part of the cowl.
 

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#5 ·
Rear suspension. BTF truss. Shock mounts with pinned tow attachments.
Modified Roark Fab atlas support ring.
 

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#9 ·
Thanks. Doors were a must for me, as much as I am in and out on the trail. If you follow the tube that starts at the rear of the door opening in front of the B pillar, it is continuous all the way around to the other side. That bend was quite a challenge. It is seemed in the back. But, it was still 6 bends 2 of which were in a different plane. Bend tech was a lifesaver on that one.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Front suspension and steering mount. Top link mount needs beefed up. Its a cut down balistic mount. I moved recently, so I had to hurry and get it where I could put it on a trailer. Thats also why its so rusty. I had to leave it out on the trailer overnight, and it dewed heavily. I made the truss, cause BTF was having problems with the company that does their cutting.
Oh, the tirod is just there to move it around, and get it on the trailer. It will have a DE ram.
 

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#8 ·
I had the rear link mount piece that goes throught the frame made at a local machine shop. Its threaded, and the link bolt goes into it. I used a mag drill and a hole saw throught the frame to get the holes in the same spot and true on both sides. This gets the link mounts in, so they dont rub the tires, plus, they dont hang down below the frame.
 

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#10 ·
cowl. 16 gauge doubled up on the sides so it wont bend.
 

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#11 ·
fuel cell and rear winch mount. There will be some storage above the winch, with a trunk lid. Winch is an old rep 8000 we had laying around. Its pretty light with the cable off of it. I will run rope on both winches
 

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#13 ·
I tried, and the hood would hit the center piece when I opened it. If you look, there are some notches on the pass side hood where the hinges mount. Thats where I tried to put the hinges on the bottom side. Now I have to patch that somehow. I also tried fabbing some hidden hinges, and that didnt work either. I dont love the hinges, but they arent too bad. I think they will look better when they are pained to match the rig. I was just tired of messing with them and wanted to move on.
 
#15 ·
Looks good partner. Git R Done so we can wheel fawker :flipoff2:
 
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#16 · (Edited)
Dont ever quote Larry the cable guy in my thread again you fukin *******!! Besides, I think done is spelled dun. Ive been burning vacation days like crazy. The irony is, when I get finished, I wont have any vacation left to go anywhere. I do have 5 weeks this year:flipoff2:
Memorial day!!! with or without you.
 
#17 ·
George,

Good to see this finally posted, quite a bit of progress since I seen it.

Looking good, can't wait to hook up & wheel with you again.

Now get it finished:D
 
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#20 ·
I hope to have a shakedown in april sometime. You got memorial plans?

Im getting pretty burned out, but I want to go wheelin so bad it keeps me motivated. I wish I still had my old rig, so I could get my fix. You guys makin any progress?
 
#19 ·
It mounts through the bottom. There will be an angle iron frame under it, that bolts in. It will have 1/4" rubber b/w all of the angle and the cell. The cell barely wouldnt fit through the top. Thats what you get when you go off of the measurements summit shows, and put the tube in before you actually have the cell. Its about 3/8" wider than they list on their site. It will be a kindof a pain to take out, but not too bad.
 
#21 · (Edited)
Just got a pic from my buddy that now has my rig. He went to some park in Ft scott Ks. this last w.e. He said there wasnt much there. Everytime he takes it somewhere, he messes up something. I think its rejecting him like a bad organ transplant. I will stop hijacking my own thread now.
 

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#27 ·
#28 ·
I guess its the one in the link in your sig? That is a sweet chassis, I really like the lines. I just moved to Tulsa. I will have to look you up sometime. I might give you a ring for some oil.
 
#29 ·
I have some 1/4" rubber. I have been debating on whether I want to tie the bottom frame that supports the cell to the chassis, or back to the top frame. What do you guys think?
 
#33 ·
Ya, Im a little nervous about that. I plan on working on that next. I will post up some pics, and see what the consensus is. I dont want to take any chances with my little guys.:)
 
#34 · (Edited)
help with the cell mount

Ok, gimme some opinions on mounting the fuel cell. I have 2 thoughts.

Build a frame on the bottom out of angle, pretty much like what is on the top, only not welded to the chassis. Weld 2 pieces of angle along the bottom running front to back, one on each side, like the piece of aluminum angle in the pic. Then make mounts off of that angle to the chassis. Mounts to the tube that runs from side to side behind the cell that the winch is mounted to. And mounts to the tube that will run from side to side in front of the cell, which the rear seats will mount to. There will be 1/4" rubber b/w the cell and the top and bottom frames. Even thought about using rubber or poly bushings in the mounts too. The angle running side to side is long in the pic, it will be cut off short of the end of the cell
 

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#35 · (Edited)
The 2nd option:
Pretty much the same frame as the 1st idea, but instead of mounting to the chassis, mounting the bottom frame back to the top frame. I was thinking about welding some allthread nuts to the top frame, and then connecting the bottom frame to the top with some allthread. I also thought about putting the allthread through a piece of tubing. Then I could get the nuts on the bottom tighter without putting too much squeeze on the cell. The pics kinda show what Im talking about. The allthread would go through the piece of angle. there would be 2 of these in front and two in back.
Im leaning towards the 2nd idea, cause it would be easier to adjust the amount of squeeze on the cell, and chassis flex wouldnt be an issue. What do you guys think?
 

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