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alaskanbadfish

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Ford Taurus Electric fan- I heard these are everywhere in scrap yards, but I've been to several and none have a Taurus, or Sable with the 3.8L. Is there some other vehicles that this fan comes on? I heard that this fan is a seriously good fan for a V-8 conversion, and would love to snag one up for under $30. There is a ton of Taurus's with 3.0L, but none 3.8L.

Power steering reservoir- Another part I'd love to snag a scrap yard, does anyone with an LT1 swap have any guidence for me on a good one that will work well for me? I know I could buy new, but being in the military......any ideas?

Coolant reservoir- I heard I need a "pressurized" reservoir for the LT1, is this true? And same as above, anyone have any scrap yard ideas?

Radiator- Advanced adapters has the exact CJ to LT1 swap aluminum radiator, but at $500 I'm wondering about other options..

Clutch linkage- Would love to convert to a Hydraulic set up with slave cylinder ect.. What would work good for me? This I may be able to afford new, so year, make, model ect would help with the brainless part store guys.
(my Tranny is an sm465 with 205 T-case)

Axles- I know this LT1 would chew up and spit out my stock axles (dana 30 front, Amc 20 rear). So there is a guy wanting to trade me a set of Dana 44's off a scout with 3.54 gears for my Dana 300 T-case. Does this sound like a good deal for me? My T-case is just stock, nice coat of new paint on it is about all.

Starter- I installed a late 90's chevy pickup w/350 and man this starter is close to the exhaust manifold, maybe like a 1/2" of clearance is all, I'm thinking this will be a real problem with not only heat issues, but with installing the exhaust. Did I get the wrong starter?

Alternator- Parts store says the highest amp alt they can find is 140amp, I'd like to go with 185+ amp, any ideas?

LT1 Computer- This LT1 came out of a Camaro, what do I have to do with it's computer? reprogrammed? Flashed? What are the steps I need to take with this?

These are just a few questions that I have rolling around in my head. My motor mounts come in next week so it's getting close to "GO" time with this project. Also if anyone else has gone from tearing out their 4.2L and installing an LT1 in a CJ, let me in on a few pointers if you have any, I'd appreciate it.
 
The Dana 44s out of the scout require alot of work to get them correct in a CJ. They come stock with 0* of castor and you need around 6*. This involves cutting the inner C's off and rewelding them on at the new angle. If you can weld cast then go for it. You also have to outboard your springs in the front for them to work. The stock axles also use the same size U-Joint as your D30 does. I was kind of in the same boat with the scout axles until I figured all of this out.
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
Well, thanks, might change my mind about that deal then. What axle swap for the CJ has the highest performance, and is the easiest to swap in, without breaking the bank of course, I heard a Isuzu Rodeo has a killer dana 44 with disc breaks?

Also, I just looked at my LT1 wiring harness, and I guess I'll go ahead and add this to my upcoming ass pain list, it's going to be interesting to try and figure out how all this will wire up. if anyone has done this swap on a CJ please PM me cause I'm sure I'll have a ton of questions in the next few weeks, if you don't mind helping.

Thanks
 
I am in the midle of the same swap except to a yj. There is a ton of LT1 swap info at lt1swap.com. For starters, the wiring harness has a bunch of stuff that can be eliminated, emissions stuff mostly. The computer will need to be flashed to remove the VATS or the engine will never run unless you have the original key. The info at lt1 swap will help you thin the harness and figure out which wires require 12volt constant and temporary an also locates the grounds. Ihave an lt 1 starter and I think it is physically smaller than the truck starter. The harness thinning was pretty easy. Hope you find some help here.
 
Ford Taurus Electric fan- I heard these are everywhere in scrap yards, but I've been to several and none have a Taurus, or Sable with the 3.8L. Is there some other vehicles that this fan comes on? I heard that this fan is a seriously good fan for a V-8 conversion, and would love to snag one up for under $30. There is a ton of Taurus's with 3.0L, but none 3.8L.
Keep looking, I have two spares from the local bone yard that I picked up for $15 a piece. BTW, the Taurus fan was the cheapest and by far the best solution to my cooling issues.

Power steering reservoir- Another part I'd love to snag a scrap yard, does anyone with an LT1 swap have any guidence for me on a good one that will work well for me? I know I could buy new, but being in the military......any ideas?
My PS res. was the one that came with the motor.

Coolant reservoir- I heard I need a "pressurized" reservoir for the LT1, is this true? And same as above, anyone have any scrap yard ideas?
Does not need to be pressurized. I got a cheapo universal res. from Napa.

Radiator- Advanced adapters has the exact CJ to LT1 swap aluminum radiator, but at $500 I'm wondering about other options..
I can't remember where I got my rad from, its been too long. Mine is a standard copper unit that somebody back in the day was making for this conversion. The issue with the rad comes from the reverse flow and the placement of the rad inlet/outlet locations.

Clutch linkage- Would love to convert to a Hydraulic set up with slave cylinder ect.. What would work good for me? This I may be able to afford new, so year, make, model ect would help with the brainless part store guys.
(my Tranny is an sm465 with 205 T-case)
When I had my SM465 behind the LT, I used a mechanical set-up with the heart of it being AA's chain control assembly mixed with the stock linkage.
http://advanceadapters.com/product/2346/716640.html

Axles- I know this LT1 would chew up and spit out my stock axles (dana 30 front, Amc 20 rear). So there is a guy wanting to trade me a set of Dana 44's off a scout with 3.54 gears for my Dana 300 T-case. Does this sound like a good deal for me? My T-case is just stock, nice coat of new paint on it is about all.
Just go 1 ton and be done with it, trust me.:D

Starter- I installed a late 90's chevy pickup w/350 and man this starter is close to the exhaust manifold, maybe like a 1/2" of clearance is all, I'm thinking this will be a real problem with not only heat issues, but with installing the exhaust. Did I get the wrong starter?
I'll check what I have.

Alternator- Parts store says the highest amp alt they can find is 140amp, I'd like to go with 185+ amp, any ideas?
No idea, I use a specialized alt for my welder.

LT1 Computer- This LT1 came out of a Camaro, what do I have to do with it's computer? reprogrammed? Flashed? What are the steps I need to take with this?
You will need to get rid of the VATS. Other than that, it will run, but will throw codes because it will always be looking for the auto trans. You could have that reprogrammed too.
BTW, I am now running a 400 behind my LT and the motor runs MUCH better than it ever did with the manual. My feeling is that the ECM doesn't understand the lower rpms that you can run with the manual and does some interesting things with the programming to get the motor to run "right".

These are just a few questions that I have rolling around in my head. My motor mounts come in next week so it's getting close to "GO" time with this project. Also if anyone else has gone from tearing out their 4.2L and installing an LT1 in a CJ, let me in on a few pointers if you have any, I'd appreciate it.
:)
 
More....

Keep the stock exhaust manifolds. Create a new exhaust system by "reversing" the "Y" so that it runs down the drivers side. Works better that way with the D300.

GM makes a "AC Delete" pulley for the AC pump. Get it. The pump, as it was in the Camaro, will hit the passenger frame rail. Even with the delete pulley, it will be close.

Make sure the water pump is good and sealed against the block well. The Duraspark doesn't like a leaky pump.:shaking:

Mike
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Wow thanks fellas. i got a new water pump and sealed it real well with gasket/right stuff, i'd be super surprised if it leaked. got that delete kit already. Real good info though i appreciate it all, and if anyone else wants to give their two cents, have at it please.
 
For axles, get a 14b and Dana 60. Dont waste money on anything else.
 
Discussion starter · #13 · (Edited)
Thought I'd add a few pictures of my build. I got my mounts in today so this won't be on the floor too much longer. If you notice how big the starter is and how close it is to the exhaust, is this the wrong starter or do they make one like it but smaller?


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This is what I started with:

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Discussion starter · #15 · (Edited)
This is an SM465 granny low 4-speed.

Got a question about the emissions junk on the top of this engine.

-Once I get my computer reprogrammed without any emissions stuff on it, am I safe to pull off all this steel tubing, egr, and plug everything off? There is a big steel pipe that wraps around the rear of the engine that I'm itchin to get rid of, this pipe goes from one exhaust manifold to the other, and in the middle there is a small pipe that goes into the back of the intake, am I good to take it and plug it all off?

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This is an SM465 granny low 4-speed.

Got a question about the emissions junk on the top of this engine.

-Once I get my computer reprogrammed without any emissions stuff on it, am I safe to pull off all this steel tubing, egr, and plug everything off? There is a big steel pipe that wraps around the rear of the engine that I'm itchin to get rid of, this pipe goes from one exhaust manifold to the other, and in the middle there is a small pipe that goes into the back of the intake, am I good to take it and plug it all off?
Yep, shitcan all of it. Then plug the holes in the manifolds.
 
Thought I'd add a few pictures of my build. I got my mounts in today so this won't be on the floor too much longer. If you notice how big the starter is and how close it is to the exhaust, is this the wrong starter or do they make one like it but smaller?


I use a LT4 corvette starter in my set up. Works great and and is a lot smaller. However I am not using the stock exhaust manifolds, i switched to headman headers.
 
Discussion starter · #18 · (Edited)
Another successful day at the junkyard today, the pick and pull set aside a
Z-28 Camaro with an LT1 until Saturday morning. Needless to say I was the first one on the scene. Although i should have pulled the entire engine ($174), I just picked off a bunch of sensors, the water pump, and the best score...The aluminum radiator and electric fan set up, I got everything for $60 and was excited to get home and make this radiator fit inside my CJ grill. After a couple hours of modifications with my grinder, I have an awesome radiator, and electric fan set up to cool my LT1, and it's a factor set up so I'm sure it's more than enough to keep the temp down. I'd say I had a very successful weekend with this pick n pulls 50% off sale, I took care of most everything on my list of mods.:smokin:

Now I just need to figure out how to tie these electric fans into my wire harness. This fan came off a 94', I have a 93' I guess thats the year they changed a bunch of things up with the LT1.

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You need a fan relay, and then find out which wire is the ground signal from the pcm. When you re-program the pcm you can change the temp it's set too whatever you wish.
Also, I'd keep the EGR, because it only works when you let off the gas and helps to get better mileage. However, I would also use the stock manifolds unless you plan on drag racing.
There's really no horsepower gain below 4000 rpm with headers. I have been told that it can make your pecker bigger though??? Maybe that was in my mind? I'm too old to remember.
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
Started my hydraulic clutch conversion today. The parts where aquired from the pick n pull off a Toyota 4 Runner. linkage is good, and it has great travel, real smooth. I think this will work real well once completed. I had to cut an 1-1/2" hole in the firewall, and two smaller mounting holes. Also one small hole on the clutch petal arm.

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