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Discussion starter · #21 ·
Jeep CJ7 said:
A dana 300 does not require an SYE as that stands for a Slip Yoke Eliminator. The D300, to my knowledge, never had a slip yoke and any shop that would suggest a need for an SYE kit on a D300 should be ran away from at the utmost speed.

On the rear you can angle the pinion up to point at the rear output of the x-fer by moving your spring perches and then have a FRONT double cardon drive shaft ( like a cheap junkyard XJ shaft) cut to fit.

On the front it is easier to keep both yokes parallel to the ground and run a single u-joint at each end of the drive shaft as you (probably) have lock-out hubs anyway.
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On second thought i didn't mention the D300 till after he had looked at it and I don't think he looked at the tcase in the first place so that may have been why he said that. Isn't a single ujoint at each end what I currently have probably?
 
#23 · (Edited)
We got some MAJOR problems if that is what he said ^^^. You do NOT need a SYE to fix your caster problems!! The SYE is for rear application only, and not needed for your dana 300. lets address the problem at hand here you said in your first post that you are "10+ degrees off on caster" who told you this or how did you come about finding this out. I got to be honest with you I was considering buying this jeep myself a while back but the 10 bolt axles is what scared me off and the $$$$ of it. Otherwise its a really clean lookin jeep. We really want to help you out before you go and blow a bunch of money on it and not fix the problem.
 
#24 ·
my old cj started life that way, ran the 10bolt/44 now that 10 bolt rear will not hold up to a 36-38's with hard wheelin, and there clip axles so axles falling out after they twist off the splines is a problem. i broke the rear all the time with 33's and the front all i broke was a passenger stub shaft.

i would just hold out for a 14bolt/44, there cheap and easy to find.
i had no issues with the rear drive line... and no you dont need a sye, they have a fixed yoke already, the big deal you might have is axle rap, i ran the 44044s and did not have any problems,
 
#25 · (Edited)
chrissybf86 said:
my old cj started life that way, ran the 10bolt/44 now that 10 bolt rear will not hold up to a 36-38's with hard wheelin, and there clip axles so axles falling out after they twist off the splines is a problem. i broke the rear all the time with 33's and the front all i broke was a passenger stub shaft.

i would just hold out for a 14bolt/44, there cheap and easy to find.
i had no issues with the rear drive line... and no you dont need a sye, they have a fixed yoke already, the big deal you might have is axle rap, i ran the 44044s and did not have any problems,
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Why would you upgrade the front 10 bolt to a 44? You said yourself all you ever broke was a stub shaft, those 2 axles share the SAME stub shaft :homer:

He already has gears in the 10 bolt, leave it.

OP, there is alot of bad info out there you will have to weed through. Someone mentioned a 14 bolt semi floater earlier which would be a viable option to replace the rear 10 bolt and still keep the same bolt pattern. Unless you are going Dana 60 in the front, I see no reason to mess with it.

Derek
 
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#27 ·
Ho Shorts said:
Why would you upgrade the front 10 bolt to a 44? You said yourself all you ever broke was a stub shaft, those 2 axles share the SAME stub shaft :homer:

He already has gears in the 10 bolt, leave it.

OP, there is alot of bad info out there you will have to weed through. Someone mentioned a 14 bolt semi floater earlier which would be a viable option to replace the rear 10 bolt and still keep the same bolt pattern. Unless you are going Dana 60 in the front, I see no reason to mess with it.

Derek
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the only reason i said the 14/44 was that its sets the way to one ton stuff,
you would have to get 8lug wheels, out board the front springs if wanted, build the rear end, then run it later on you could find a 60 and build to match the rear,
yea i broke a stub shaft but i also wheel hard and have a 400hp fuelinjected 355 with a sm465 4speed and a dana 300 and my axles are 456's i paid 350$ for the 3/4 ton set up.

now that it has good shafts if holds up pretty well, i sold the jeep and its still going the same way i set it up,
 
#28 ·
D44 front +/- 10 bolt front

D44rear > 10 bolt rear

3/4 tom stuff is cheap for sure. And the thicker average tube of a 3/4 ton D44 or 3/4 ton 8 lug front help s few of the smaller front end's problems when compared to the sometimes very thin tubed 1/2 to stuff.
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
...so can anyone give me a straight answer- do I need to look at upgrading asap or should this hold up for a while? Theres some 14bolt 8 lug rears on clist but that would mean switching all my rims which i didnt plan on right now.

Today the jeep is getting tuned by a mechanic and i cant wait to see how powerful it actually is when its not choking itself on fuel. New chrome mirrors, handles, hinges are on the way, and i just finished making some polished aluminum removable mud flap hangers.
 
#30 · (Edited)
chrissybf86 said:
out board the front springs if wanted
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Springs are already outboarded since he is running a full size axle. The 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton axles share the same 31 1/4" spring perch center. Everything else about the 8 lug wheels makes sense to a point. Since the 10 bolt already has gears, all he has to do is swap spindles and rotors and he has 8 lug in the front.Knuckles, calipers, housing, etc. are exactly the same from 1/2 to 3/4 ton. No need to swap the entire axle out for a Dana 44 and buy gears again, lots of extra money for nothing.

kashwak said:
...so can anyone give me a straight answer- do I need to look at upgrading asap or should this hold up for a while? Theres some 14bolt 8 lug rears on clist but that would mean switching all my rims which i didnt plan on right now.

Today the jeep is getting tuned by a mechanic and i cant wait to see how powerful it actually is when its not choking itself on fuel. New chrome mirrors, handles, hinges are on the way, and i just finished making some polished aluminum removable mud flap hangers.
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Depends on your driving style, I have seen 10 bolts hold up on 38's and I have seen guys destroy 1 tons with 37 inch tires. If you are aware the axles are weak and take it easy on the skinny pedal you will be fine. The 10 bolt rear is equal to the AMC 20 the Jeep came with and there are plenty of guys out there still running it. Just don't beat it too hard.

Derek
 
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Discussion starter · #31 ·
Okay thank you I was just confused after all this debate.

Well when I brought the jeep in to be tuned etc. I found out that the carb was shooting like 70% of my fuel to the side just spilling it and wasting it... so I'm getting the Jeep back tomorrow with a rebuilt carb and tuned, new gaskets, etc.
 
#32 ·
If you can find a D60F that you can afford I would do it now. Why re-do stuff when the light duty axles start failing? If you have no power and run a 37" tire like those junk Humvee take-off's that won't hook-up on dry pavement let alone anyplace off-road your 10-bolt will last a long time. Not actually taken it off-road will add to the longevity. Keeping your budget in mind look back through the posts here and decided how much weight to give the posters giving you advice, and go from there. Good luck with your upgrades.
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
Got new gaskets and the correct bolts on the headers, now I've been working on new heavy duty brackets for the glasspacks that mount on to the bottom of the body mounts.

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I also got the new handles but when I took the old ones off the old bolts literally fell out with half remaining in the door >_< Last night I purchased an easy-out and am hoping they'll come out easy tonight cause in the mean time I'm handleless and have to crawl through the passenger side.

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My high school has no parking so I make do:

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Discussion starter · #35 ·
Clean Jeep and some nice weather :)

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Me doing some final touches on the exhaust

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Finished my homemade mud flaps & brackets today. I used a 3 foot stick of aluminum square tubing cut in half,
4 chain repair links, and a semi truck mud flap cut in half as well. They're also very easily removable for 4x4ing
which is nice cause I have lost a lot of flaps to the mountains.
I also got all the damn stickers off as well so it looks nice and clean with no freakin suns and moons on it :p

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The flaps look wide in the picture but they actually only stick out exactly as far as the tires

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Discussion starter · #37 ·
Well the aluminum hangers didn't last long as you can see in the pic, so I just picked up a 3 ft stick of steel box tubing that feels 10x as strong.

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The exhaust mounts are holding up fine though which took care of a lot of loud rattling.

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A couple years ago I was at an army/navy surplus warehouse and found a box of Vietnam era pineapple grenades (explosives were drilled out though of course :p ). I got the idea of turning one into a shifter after seeing some grenade shifters for sale online somewhere. So I took a nut that matched the threads of the shift knob, and ground the corners off so it was a metal circle with threads in it. Then I welded it with a nickel rod (cause the grenade is cast iron) into the hole in the bottom of the grenade where the charges had been drilled out. It's sturdy and works great, my main shifter is gonna be solid copper but I haven't decided what design yet, possibly a skull since I already have a mold for that.

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Right after I post this I'm going out to replace the rear leaf bushing so my Jeep wont be tilting anymore :p
 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
Spent all damn day trying to get the bolt out of the rear bushing to no avail. The nut came off fine but the bolt would come out about 1 cm and then not budge any further no matter what; I heated it real fricken hot with a torch, sprayed it repeatedly with pb blaster, and even hit the thread-end with a sledge (with copper punches in between the two of course) as hard as I could. I'm just gonna have the tire store do it this week cause $50 ain't worth the effort I went through today.
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
Got my rear bumper hitch done in time for going up to Kalispell, Sunday for a trailride on the Blacktail ohv trail.
On the trail I broke the weld holding the steering box to the frame (past owner welded cast iron to steel) and my steering box is pretty much trashed, but it was getting towards the end of its life anyways. That's getting fixed right now and my soundbar just came in the mail, but I had to send it back as it was a 2 speaker when they clearly said it was for 4. >:/

Here's some pics from the Blacktail trail:
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