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Project "YJ Unlimited"

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Discussion starter · #63 · (Edited)
I had to spend this weekend building a bumper for a friend. I promised him forever ago that I would do it.

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Hidden hitch behind a flip-up license plate (the zip ties are just temporary

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Just thought I'd share

Also got a chance to finish welding up the truss, then I checked it with a laser light and according to the laser its still straight.

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Finished...

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Discussion starter · #64 ·
Got my axle back from the sandblasters and immediately put a coat of self-etching primer on the housing and started on some work on the front axle.

First I used my monster 7/8" allen wrench (that I bought from my store that must remain a secret for only $4.99 brand new never used) to remove the old kingpins, which I planned on replacing the whole time so I did not bother to cover them before sending the axle to the sandblaster.

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The torque spec on the kingpins is like 600 ft/lbs and instead of using heat, I just used leverage; a 10' stick of 2"x4"x.190 rectangle tubing. A little bit of a nudge and it busted the old kingpins loose, and I put the new ones in the same way, with red loctite. I don't have a torque wrench that goes up to 600 ft/lbs so I used my mega-cheater bar and got them "tight and then some"

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Then after pounding out all the old bearing races, and installing new lower-kingpin bearing races I took the axle and parts to get the locker and gears installed.

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and tossed on the front cover just cuz

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Also my 4-link joints came in. I bought 8 of these for the links up at the frame-end for a little bit of cush and noise suppressant

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and 8 of these at the axle ends for some easier flexability and durability. I didn't snag a pic of my actual joints so ballistics pic will do. I don't know if I will run into any issues using flex joints at the axle, and polyurethane bushings at the frame end, but it seems like a good match for what I want and I'll give it a try.

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Discussion starter · #65 ·
minor update

Tryin to get the pace pickin up on this some... I had to go out of town again last week for work..

and I'm sure you are all tired of seeing this stupid axle, I'm about tired of working on it ha.. Just trying to pay attention to detail and make everything nice. Every nut and bolt is being replaced/upgraded. Every bearing and race have been replaced.

Sandblasted all the parts to get a new coat of paint.

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And I also took BillaVistas advice on welding a piece of tube to protect the lower kingpin cap grease zerk.. But I used .25" wall instead of his .125"...

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and I also traded a pair of D70 axles for this Warn XD9000i winch but I'm not sure if I will clean it up and keep it or sell/trade it for something else.
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Discussion starter · #67 ·
sleepsontoilet said:
Any reason you're keeping the Dually adapters on? Sure seems like it'd be stupid wide like that. Looks good so far.
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Yep I put them on intentionally 2fold.

A) I wanted the extra width for stability and for helping keeping the body away from those obstacles with vertical walls.. It works well for my brother's rig which also is a D60 w/ dually hubs. I love the width of his axles I think it works perfectly for the trails I like. Also in helping keep the tires away from the frame and links and stuff.

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and the 2nd reason is helping keep the hub protected by more wheel. As you can see my brother has locking hubs which are a lot wider than the drive flange caps I'm running on mine, but it helps that even using a low-offset wheel to keep the end of the hub inside the wheel line.

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I measured the finished axle WMS tonight and it is about 79".. I will be setting up the rear axle this same width but without the dually hub spacers. She'll be a wide girl for sure but thats what I'm after.
 
Discussion starter · #69 ·
Behind on schedule, but whats new about that?....

Hey did I mention that a TJ dash is NOT meant to fit into a YJ? haha wow that was a lot more of a pain than I expected. Had to cut out a lot more of the dash than anticipated.. If I had to do it again I would do it a little differently to where the windshield would not be able to fold down, that would save some more of the dash. But for the most part I have it looking about how I want it. It is 90% mounted.

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You can also see my scrambler half-top and LJ Deck lid. I scored a killer deal on a LJ deck lid, bikini top and full OEM soft-top. All 3, like new.. $100.. I know right?

But I wasn't planning on running a soft top to begin with so I had to get some of the belt rails to weld to the tub. Got them from the local stealership for $35 each.

If anyone is interested in the part numbers for the LJ belt rails they are:

56052374AA (Right)
56052375AA (Left)

I will have to make some bed spreader bar things to lift up the deck lid to make it convex to shed water.

I also bought a 4'x8' sheet of .25" plate to make my crusher corners out of. I had the steel place sheer them at 18.75" tall and a local shop is putting the radius bend in to match the back of the tub. As soon as I get them back I will get them trimmed up and welded onto the tub. (fully perimeter welding, no bolting)
 
Discussion starter · #71 ·
v8jeeptj said:
How long are the belt rails when you get them from the dealership? And when you say belt rail do you mean the top rail that is on the back of the tub that the hardtop/soft top frame bolt to?
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Yeah that piece, the little lip the the soft tops plastic piece on the edge folds underneath. And it goes all the way to the door edge but I am going to cut like 6" off that end so my half top sits down a little better. I can get a measurement tonight
 
Discussion starter · #73 ·
v8jeeptj said:
Thanks man, also are the corner rails available
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Yeah it goes pretty much from the back of the front doors around the corner and almost to the tailgate. I ordered my parts over the phone and told him "I need everything it takes to mount a soft top" and I figured that would include those two little pieces that would be about 5" on either side of the tailgate. But I guess he misunderstood me because I didn't get those yet so my next day off I will have to go in to the dealership and I guess physically point out those other two pieces. When I find out I can get you those part numbers too.
 
Discussion starter · #74 ·
Got them measured. Basically if you stand them up on the floor on end, they measure 58" long.

I got the steering column (Factory YJ, non tilt) semi mocked in and it should work for me. But I found out my steering wheel has a big bend (not noticeable when sitting still, but you sure can see it when you spin the wheel around fast) so I will have to get a new steering wheel but that's all good I want a smaller one anyways. The steering column on a TJ appears to be maybe 1.5" or so more inwards towards the center of the jeep than a YJ because to get the column centered in the dash hole it is on a tiny bit of an angle. Not noticeable though.

Grabbed one of my seats and threw it in there on some blocks and sat in it. Everything felt ergonomic and pretty comfortable. Should be good amount of room for a roll cage, and enough room between the seats for the factory TJ center console I have.
 
#76 · (Edited)
ChocFlip201 said:
Completely non technical, or anything to do with jeeps, but I made my owm Pirate4x4 smiley today, at 120 mph 18,500 ft above sea level.

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btw no I'm not always that ugly, its crazy what the wind does to your face during freefall.
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slednecks1124 said:
You cant blame the wind for your receeding hairline:flipoff2:
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And your butts to nuts with a dude dropping out of the sky! lol

sorry a little delayed. but I just found the thread. nice build!
 
Discussion starter · #78 ·
attentionwhore said:
Great work man. I am also stretching my YJ but not going as big. I will be watching your progress.
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Thanks it's been to long drawn out. As far as an update I bought 3 new pitbull rockers in the 42", 16.5 flavor. I woulda bought 5 but they were for sale locally and he only had 3. I will get them mounted on the front axle so that I can kinda see where ride height is going to be. It won't be as low as a lot of builds on here, such as project Animal, but it will be a lot lower than my brother's FJ on the same size tires. Wheels I'm just thinkin stock H1's with a PVC insert and a custom rock ring.

I also contacted Jason Ratcliff and talked to him a bit more about the status of the Sixty9, needless to say that same day I called RuffStuff and ordered a Sixty9 rear axle housing. I'm super excited about going to be running a Sixty9 rear axle.

Need to make up my mind on inner and outer C's for the rear, I've always had my mind set on Ried as I have used some of their products before and have been super impressed with them. But I'm also kind opening up to Crane. I don't know yet. Unless I can be convinced I'd be happier with Crane then I will order Reid's for sure. Going to be running RCV axles and joints. This rear axle is going to be porn.

Thinking a double ended ram mounted in front of the rear axle mounted just below the upper links and just above the Sixty9 third member. If I can make it work that is. And probably the Artec high steer arms because even though I think my front ballistic double sheer arms are a lot better than a basic arm, I don't feel they meet my expectations.

Bought a secondary TJ dash that I will leave unmolested until I get my cage in and everything, so I will cut, grind and weld with this tan dash in and not care about ruining it. Sad thing is I paid $300 shipped here from a guy in Texas of off JeepForum. At the time I felt it was fair because I couldn't find any local TJs being parted out at the time. I paid $80 for this one that is in perfect condition and was local. Oh well live and learn. I am only doing this because when I was clearancing the tan, current dash to make room for the YJ windshield wiper motor that is mounted to the windshield frame, I cut out enough material so that there would be room enough for the wiper motor to rotate while folding down the windshield. After I got the dash cut out (which I cut out a lot more than I wanted) I realized if I make it so the windshield cannot fold down without removing the dash then I can keep a lot more of both the support frame and also the top plastic pieces. So I will get everything fanned up with the first dash then make the minimum necessary cuts to the new dash when I know for sure what I can and cannot leave.

I should still be getting my homemade crusher corners bent this weekend I hope.

I am going to have to do some kind of a front-half system to the front of my frame to make clearance for my front axle. I almost bought the ATX system from the same guy who I bought my front dash from because he had some sets but when I saw them I realized how puny they are. They look a lot bigger online. I am sure they would be fine for a lot of people but I want something a little bigger.
 
Discussion starter · #79 ·
Need some insight from you pirates..

Im thinking just a spool in the rear for strength and simplicity.

How well will a full spool work in a steering rear axle?

I am also thinking about a 40 spline spool where as I am having to have custom shafts anyways.. Anyone have more insight on 40 spline D60 axleshafts?

I just need someone who knows more about this specific stuff more than I do...
 
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ChocFlip201
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