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PrOjEcT bLUmPkInWaGoN: cause u can get a bj while poopin!

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#702 ·
Booger Weldz said:
Eat a taco when lookin at pics :flipoff2::)

Yes, u are actually describing what i am, but i start from the very beginning with a bend that i( at the last bend) undo essentially. As the press is 4" +wide and the amterial is slightly stuck in the machine at the final bend. I have a micrometer preset at the point so the brake stops, but this time someone else used it and moved the stop.... The piece is tapered and bent so i need to make two false bends/un bends to fix my back truss and its a bitch/eyeball it not measure it...
Click to expand...
I see, we have a few 10-12' x ~160 press brakes, but we also have a little 48" press brake that is fawesome for stuff like this and is def not 4" wide :flipoff2:

So are you saying that you get the middle bend close, and then flip the piece 90* and "squish" the thing like this > u < The v's being the press brake dies and the u being your truss???
 
Discussion starter · #703 · (Edited)
YotaAtieToo said:
I see, we have a few 10-12' x ~160 press brakes, but we also have a little 48" press brake that is fawesome for stuff like this and is def not 4" wide :flipoff2:

So are you saying that you get the middle bend close, and then flip the piece 90* and "squish" the thing like this > u < The v's being the press brake dies and the u being your truss???
Click to expand...
Yeah!
:D

I'm using a brake as big as a semi cab w no sheet metal dyes....
 
Discussion starter · #705 ·
Ring gear protection...

Now I gotta trim the entire ugly edge of the cover back3/8" and weld it on.

But not till I resolve the third bolt method/material issue???

What grade do u think the studs are? 8.8, 10.9? I doubt 12.9??
 

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Discussion starter · #707 ·
2for each axle. Replaceable 30# magnets to collect all the metallic tidbits this will potentially have floating around in it. There's no way to really get it 'clean'... Hot tank guy said I'd be wastin $...
 

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#713 ·
Booger Weldz said:
Still gotta finish this( cut/cap the top). Notice the stock frame still taller at the splice. It's a bitch getting in there to cut, let alone square...
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Did you go narrower with the rear frame so you could mount your shocks on the out side of the frame?

Also why didn't you line top of the new frame up with the top of the old one rather then the bottom?
 
Discussion starter · #716 · (Edited)
YotaAtieToo said:
Did you go narrower with the rear frame so you could mount your shocks on the out side of the frame?

Also why didn't you line top of the new frame up with the top of the old one rather then the bottom?
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Yes sir on the shocks.

The frame is lowered a bit(u know, uve done this)and flat now so I can make a 'real' bed using all potential space w 14 gage and dimpled holes. The rear frame is where the stock piece was(height), so I really just changed the shape, technically didn't lower it
 
Discussion starter · #717 · (Edited)
I guess the cut up sheet metal and missing inner fender area kinda makes it look weird at a camera angle from floor up.

I'm capping the bed sides and tailgate w 1 5/8" tube. The tailgates gutted of the window mechanism and glass. Everything else gets cut out and tossed. The whole 'inner' bed is new.
 
#718 ·
Booger Weldz said:
Yes sir on the shocks.

The frame is lowered a bit(u know, uve done this)and flat now so I can make a 'real' bed using all potential space w 14 gage and dimpled holes. The rear frame is where the stock piece was(height), so I really just changed the shape, technically didn't lower it
Click to expand...
Wait, did you lower it or not? :laughing:

IIRC on mine I continued with the 45*ish angle of the stock frame up further where as you came off strait back. So I would say you did lower it a bit, but you used 2x3 and I used 2x4(really close to stock in that area) so it looks even lower then it is because of the space between the body.

The bed idea is cool, what are you planning on for a fuel tank? (I'm sure you mentioned it, but I don't feel like reading back through pages and pages of........:flipoff2:)
 
#719 · (Edited)
Booger Weldz said:
But not till I resolve the third bolt method/material issue???

What grade do u think the studs are? 8.8, 10.9? I doubt 12.9??
Click to expand...
I've become a fan of using bolts instead of studs, at least for the bottom 4 - that way you're not damaging stud threads every time you drag your axle over a rock. I've used bolts just threading into the tapped housing, and have also welded backer nuts inside the housing on one axle I had.

No idea on grade - what are ARPs? Just get the highest grade that is readily available?

And I really think the greatest contribution you could ever make to Pirate would be to learn how the fuck to post fucking pictures:shaking::flipoff2: For fucks sake:eek: I can never tell what's going on in your threads without tweaking my neck out...
 
#720 ·
desertPOS said:
I've become a fan of using bolts instead of studs, at least for the bottom 4 - that way you're not damaging stud threads every time you drag your axle over a rock. I've used bolts just threading into the tapped housing, and have also welded backer nuts inside the housing on one axle I had.

I have done this before and had ok luck, but I also have seen a few friends rip the studs out from the pinion torquing up. So its kind of a wash which way is better.

No idea on grade - what are ARPs? Just get the highest grade that is readily available?

And I really think the greatest contribution you could ever make to Pirate would be to learn how the fuck to post fucking pictures:shaking::flipoff2: For fucks sake:eek: I can never tell what's going on in your threads without tweaking my neck out...
Click to expand...
Agree! :flipoff2:
 
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66CJdean
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