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NP205 Rebuild

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#22 ·
idler preload has nothing to do with the idler retaining nut IMO.
all that force is transfered through the races and spacer.

preload is set by the length of the spacer which is the distance between the bearings
 
#28 · (Edited)
patooyee said:
Yes, but not all ball bearings have that so why would one specifically seek it out over another that didn't?
Click to expand...
Well, with a lot of them the balls can all be put in without the need for a clearance hole. The inner and outer races are put together and the balls dumped in one side, then the center race is centered and the balls are spread out. With that style the inner race doesn't have to be offset as far to get the balls in.

more or less, that bearing is ballsier than one without the magic hole.
 
Discussion starter · #30 · (Edited)
No adjusment on the front output, once you tighten the yoke/flange to the front output bearing it should draw tight against the beaing inner race. It should be held foward against the yoke.

At this point you should make sure that the rear needle support bearing is pressed in very close to the back of the front output so that you maximze the length of the needles supporting the front output.

I set mine with the yoke off, so that it could only slide back about 5 thou before it bottomed the rear support bearing. However once tightened up it will have a 5 though gap from the back of the support bearing...

Output housing bored for an 85 mm bearing (OD), next to original bearing 80 mm...



Rear output housing, you can see where it has been opened up...

 
#31 ·
h8sprint said:
Is there an adjustment? Or what would cause it to move?


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The blot should hold the yoke and inner bearing race to the shoulder of the input shaft tightly the outer races snap ring is clamped to the face of the case by the bearing retainer.So the only movement if it is correct would be between the inner and outer races and that should be unnoticeable if there is play there replace the bearing they are not expensive,if the bearing is OK next check the snap ring and the face of the case for a grove/wear from the case where the ring rides and the bore that the ring fits in in the retainer ti should be a snug fit with the retainer and gasket in place with a new gasket it will be a bit loose until you tighten the retainer and crush the gasket. If all that is tight the other thing is the shaft nut seals in the overhaul kits can be too thick and keep the yoke from clamping the bearing by bottoming out between the nut and the shoulder of the shaft.
 
Discussion starter · #32 · (Edited)
Installed seal in the retainer, gasket then 40 ft lbs.. Bolts on the right that support the shifter linkage are longer (1.5") to accommodate the extra width of the bracket…




Rubber star seal ,red Loctite, and torqued to 190 ft lbs…




For sport I checked the end play on the flange (front output) and it was about 8.5 thou, which should be just bearing movement. The movement is small but is visible on the output (in the grease)…

Called a couple of shops and got a couple of different answers as far as endplay, so I am going to take the nut off and take a look in the flange and make sure splines dont protrude past where the nut seats...

Also installed new detent balls, springs, and poppet plug gaskets... Torqued down to 15 ft lbs...

 
Discussion starter · #35 · (Edited)
h8sprint said:
Thanks for the info and this thread. I found the seal on the retainer front output was not seated all the way. Also found a broken shift fork and rust and trashed needle bearing. So ordered a fork an rebuild kit should be here Friday. Thanks.


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Np

h8sprint said:
One more thing. Did you order new aluminum parts or how did you get them so clean.


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I have been bead blasting everything, but the aluminum output retainers are bought from NorthWest Fab...

NP205 Billet Bearing Retainers

Pulled the nut to check where the splines end which they are all correct…




Checked endplay on the front output, 21 thou…



Pulled the bearing to make sure the thrust washer was there, mic’ed it and it is fatter than the old one…




Held down the outer race and checked the inner race and what do you know 8.5 thou of movement. The endplay I was seeing was just the normal slop of the bearing… Also checked the other bearing I had and it was the same (both of bearings are new)...




Red Loctite, and 190 ft lbs…




Installed rear idler cover, torqued to 25 ft lbs...

 
#38 ·
Putting my 205 back together, I have around .003 of endplay on the idler gear. Should i tighten it up or run it? (new bearings, i could take out a .0045 shim and have a bit of preload?, or sand down the thicker shim for 0 endplay)

spec is .000 to .002

I want to run it because i think? i read somewhere that no preload is better on a 205 idler:confused:
 
Discussion starter · #39 · (Edited)
I would run it at least at 0 endplay... Where else do you have opposed tappered roller bearings and run them with no preload or worse slop? With preload there is no question that the bearings will run hotter. (So do pinions, and hubs when the bearings are brand new)

I am taking a shot in the wind here, but I bet they wrote the instructions (with endplay), because it would be difficult if not impossible to meassure preload any other way then by hand... just my opinion...

Also as the cones and races wear they will create there own endplay so if you start tight it will wind up loose, start loose and it will end up sloppy...

I also spoke with two different shops about the idler one said 0 endplay, the other said 0 or either a little preload.

I put mine in with 1 thou of preload, spinning by hand mine will turn about 180 before it comes to a stop (but it does take a little bit of effort to turn its not loose)....
 
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