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5300-5500 I will say, that is race ready crossing the line (not Dave Cole getting SCORE tagged) :flipoff2:
Sounds about right. Then add two 200lb +/- blood bags.
 
Discussion starter · #63 ·
What's the wager? It will cross the start line over 5k
Excellent idea! The wager is 24 of you favorite adult beverage delivered to KOH. The rules are simple, you get to pick a range of 100 pounds. Since its my build and my bet I say 4900-5000. :flipoff2:IF I win you guys can all pitch in and buy me a case, if someone else wins I will buy them a case.

I agree. It's going to be 5k to 5300 is my bet
Narrow it down a bit a place your bet.

Sounds about right. Then add two 200lb +/- blood bags.
Blood Bags not included in weight?

I was originally thinking 4900, no more than 5000 race ready... I think he can still pull it off..
Thanks man, place your bet.

I think you guys may be forgetting something, this is a Land Cruiser not some mini truck or Ranger that doesn't have shit in it to begin with. Think of all the shit a LC has interior wise then double it because it's a LC and built like a shit brick house. Sure its going to be heavy but I really think I stripped close to 1K pounds out of it this weekend and I'm not done yet! Hell, I threw a door on the scale just for shits and it weighed in at 71.4 pounds! That's almost 300 pounds just in doors! Then all the A/C, dash, carpet, plus all the wiring, I bet there is easily 100 pounds of wire in this thing. Place your bets and lets see who is right? :beer:

I only had about 6 hours to work on it this weekend and got it all stripped down and ready to pull the body off. There really is no that much stuff that has to be disconnected to pull the body off. I took my time and unplugged every plug and broke loose all the brake lines and everything I could for a clean removal. I hate Toyota electrical plugs! I think I only broke 2 which is pretty damn good if you ask me. I also hate brake lines, luckily this thing is unmolested and I was able to get a line wrench on all of them and didn't strip one out! I would say I am very happy with the way everything came apart.







 
Don't you need to run all of the doors in 4600? You can gut them, but the basic shell needs to be there. Don't forget all of the weight you will be adding on; heavier tires/ wheels, heavier axles, 2" cage, bumpers, armor, spares, tools, fire extinguishers, heavier shocks, heavier suspension bracketry..... for a 100# window I'll go 5400-5500.

One thought on the propane/ gasoline debate; propane tanks are bulky. You can store 32 gallons of gasoline in the same space that it takes to store 16 gallons of propane. More fuel= less stops= shorter race time.

be sure to pop the back windows out and replace with Al or smoked lexan.
 
Nice!

I am still thinking Jason can keep it on the light end of things, a Cruiser just has a lot of heavy ass junk in it. 4500lbs is perhaps a stretch. Time will tell and I will now STFU about weight.
 
Don't you need to run all of the doors in 4600? You can gut them, but the basic shell needs to be there. Don't forget all of the weight you will be adding on; heavier tires/ wheels, heavier axles, 2" cage, bumpers, armor, spares, tools, fire extinguishers, heavier shocks, heavier suspension bracketry..... for a 100# window I'll go 5400-5500.

One thought on the propane/ gasoline debate; propane tanks are bulky. You can store 32 gallons of gasoline in the same space that it takes to store 16 gallons of propane. More fuel= less stops= shorter race time.

be sure to pop the back windows out and replace with Al or smoked lexan.
I think they can ditch the doors for a set of "tube doors". Just has to have a double latch.

Even without doors it'll be over 5k at the start line.
 
Tube and skinned? I would leave at least the shell. The doors do a lot for recognizability and are valuable real estate for steeeeeeeekers.
I'd look better, but as far as rules go. Not needed.
 
I'm with Wilson on this one for sure.


QUOTE:

If you are cutting weight to gain MPG as it has already been said, you REALLY have to drop 1000+ lbs and I don't know how you do that while keeping the 80 a nice, neat, DD. NOW, if you are talking about cutting weight b/c you want to wheel your rig then if you ask me every pound removed counts as well as centering your weight distribution. Here is what I've done thus far:

- Cut out and removed rocker panels
- Cut out roof
- Cut out from C-Pillar back (Quart. windows, rearr hatch)
- Remove tailgate
- Remove AC unit, condenser, pump, and all lines
- Remove ABS
- Remove all brackets, bolts, parts (rear tire), etc. that are no longer in use (you'd be amazed at how much you save)
- Remove rear seats (obviously 3rd row was long gone)
- Remove all carpet and fabric
- Cut out all front inner fenders
- Cut Rear Frame 6" to tuck the bumper
- Cut front Frame 4" to tuck the bumper
- Relocate Dual batteries to inside the cab behind the center console
- Removed Numerous wires, cables, etc. not being used.

If I remember my numbers correctly, with ALL of the above, I had slimmed down by ~975lbs, but 40"tires, armor, roll cage, etc. added most of it back. My ideal loaded weight for the 80 once I am done (what ever that means, lol) is between 5000-5500lbs.
Cheers

Taken from- 80 Weight Loss Ideas | IH8MUD Forum
 
Thanks man, place your bet.
#4957... And I've got a case of Keystone on it :flipoff2:

be sure to pop the back windows out and replace with Al or smoked lexan.
Why any window? He only needs a functional door/tailgate with two latches...

6.3.2.4 Stock windows (glass) are not required, but are permitted, providing they
meet DOT regulations. Alternatives to traditional safety-glass may
be allowed, on approval of Hammerking Productions Inc

Get out your plasma and make the entire body single wall, that will save you 300lbs easy...I saved 120lbs in a single cab Ranger, you have way more to start with...
While a great idea, I don't think he can do that legally..


6.3.2.2 Stock body (body is considered to be the full cab, including all interior and
exterior sheet metal, bed, doors, hood, fenders, grill, etc.) required. The body
must be complete and unmodified, with the following limitations and
exceptions: Holes may be cut in any part of the body for the single and
exclusive purpose of allowing roll cage tubes and transmission/transfer case
linkage to pass-through the body. Open holes must be kept to within .5"
of the diameter of any tube or linkage that passes through the body



I would leave at least the shell. The doors do a lot for recognizability and are valuable real estate for steeeeeeeekers.
Agreed 100%! Half doors are a great alternative. It makes it easier to get in and out without actually opening the door. You are required tubing to protect you from side impact, but that can be built into the cage easily enough.
 
Agreed 100%! Half doors are a great alternative. It makes it easier to get in and out without actually opening the door. You are required tubing to protect you from side impact, but that can be built into the cage easily enough.


I am with Wilson. Keep the whole outer skin, keeps it looking like an 80.
The rules say half doors, it does not state which half.
 
Discussion starter · #77 ·
for a 100# window I'll go 5400-5500.

One thought on the propane/ gasoline debate; propane tanks are bulky. You can store 32 gallons of gasoline in the same space that it takes to store 16 gallons of propane. More fuel= less stops= shorter race time. Be sure to pop the back windows out and replace with Al or smoked lexan.
Weight Noted...
True, they do make fiber glass and even carbon fiber tanks. I know there are pro's and con's both ways and I think for what we want to do propane is the right choice?

Get out your plasma and make the entire body single wall, that will save you 300lbs easy...I saved 120lbs in a single cab Ranger, you have way more to start with...
I wish we could do this Dan, but we have to stay in the rules. I don't want to build this with the intentions of someone needing to interpret the rules to make a determination if it fits the class. When I whoop there ass I want it to be fair and square!

Tube and skinned? I would leave at least the shell. The doors do a lot for recognizability and are valuable real estate for steeeeeeeekers.
Exactly, I plan to run the door skins on a tube frame.

#4957... And I've got a case of Keystone on it :flipoff2:
Why any window? He only needs a functional door/tailgate with two latches...
Weight Noted! I plan to run the rear door and tailgate, gutted of course with some type of plastic glass.

Just hurry up and post the finished weight. You clowns forget I can edit all your posts :D
How dare you...:flipoff2:
 
Discussion starter · #78 ·
Unfortunately not a lot of progress in the last week, I took my wife to Seattle for spring break, I don’t know who’s idea it was to go to Seattle for spring break, but it was a dumb idea, should have went to Mexico or at least someplace warm. Oh well live and learn…
I did receive a bunch of great parts to make us go really fast from one of our great sponsors, RuffStuff Specialties. These guys build some of the beefiest brackets in the industry plus they are huge advocates of the Ultra 4 racing series and just all around good people. Please check out their website and if you need anything they sell, tell them you saw it here on my build thread! I received lots of great brackets and tabs to build the suspension plus all the rod ends for the links and steering. These rod ends are huge! 1.25” ends for the upper and lower links; I don’t see these getting destroyed, ever!
I had big plans to pull the body off the frame on Sunday but it snowed about 8” and I had to put it off until this weekend. So I’ll be plenty busy this weekend and really looking forward to getting everything stripped and most of all cleaned! 20+ years of grease and gunk on this thing really make it unpleasant to work on, I can’t wait until it get it all cleaned up.
Off-Road Fabrication Parts - RuffStuff Specialties

 
Lite cylinder made the fiberglass cylinders and were forced-closed by the DOT last year:( it sucks, they had a large target on their backs. A few local suppliers refused to fill mine before there was ever a legitimate issue (still not sure there was, seems the problem was with some BBQ tanks sold to the Asian market of all things).

I have had (3) propane fueled rigs, so very far from a propane hater. It has it's place and use, but I am not sure if that is endurance racing. It is great for crawlers, and can be great for WELL built engines that struggle with stock-type fueling. For a stock motor, racing long distances and with space a premium (remember your tanks will need to be VERY accessible for pit swaps, which means other things may not be) I'm not convinced, personally.
 
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