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4.10 or 4.56? 1995 f-150 towing travel trailer.

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
1995 Ford f150 5.8 4x4

So I am going full time trailer life for a year and that means towing my 5000lb Nash 23 footer around the country. I am trying to decide on a new gear ratio of either 4.10 or 4.56. What do you guys think?

I am currently on 33's with a body lift and the H9 axle ratio which I think is 3.55. It's a slug on the hills of Colorado, I can only imagine with the trailer what it would be like.

plan to go to 35's after I get a nice suspension lift so I'm thinking 4.56 is the way to go. I don't need to be hitting 70+ towing on the highway happy at 55-65. I plan on adding a dual sport motorcycle to the tow load for getting around when I settle in area's. So tow load will be like 6000lb total, with me and everything else.

Anyone have any suggestions? I will probably spend most of the time in the Rockies and Pacific Northwest during the spring and summer and then more sea level during the colder months. Is 4.10 plenty? or should I go ahead and go to 4.56 since I plan on adding a bit more wheel radius around Christmas?
 
#3 ·
id say as much gear as you are comfortable with, especially if you consider 55-60 good for cruising. keeps the stress down and the rest of the drivetrain. i doubt the minor fuel use difference will matter, but the help from a stop and uphill will be nice.

so 4.56 gets my vote.
 
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#4 ·
My vote would involve 4.10's and not lifting and putting 35's on a truck that will be a full time tow rig. Because that doesn't make sense.
 
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#5 ·
The 351 is a fine (light) tow rig motor, but higher RPMs simply will not help you.

My vote goes for 4:10s.

I have personal experience with an e-series with the 351/e40d combo with a 12k trailer. Swapping to 4:10s routinely produced averages 17-18mpg empty and 6-8mpg loaded.
 
#7 ·
I don't understand the logic behind 35's on a 1/2 ton truck set up for towing. I see brake, trans, and axle problems in your future. On my old POS 3/4 ton Chevy going from 3.54 to 4.10 made a huge difference in engine performance with stock tires. If I had to tow with your truck I would go back to close to stock tires and 4.10.
 
#8 ·
x whatever on 4.10's and not lifting it and adding larger tires. If you're going to be driving it around the country for a year pulling a trailer all that's going to do is add wind resistance and strain on everything. Plus lifted ttb wears the tires. Spend that money replacing whatever needs to be replaced on the truck or upgrading brakes or cooling or something.
 
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Discussion starter · #10 ·
This is the truck I have and what I plan to do with it. Will just be towing every few months or so. I will be parking the trailer and going to alot of spots that require 4 wheel drive.

Just one vehicle in this scenario and I am just asking for advice on 4.10 or 4.56 in THIS scenario. I think I am going 4.56 since it will be around 4.05 or so with the tires and for steep grades in the mountains.

ease up on whether it makes sense or not or buying a junker for the same price. My truck is in excellent condition not your average beater. I am trying to find the most balanced scenario where I can travel and 4 wheel. I am a bit outside the normal applications with what I'm planning so no need to worry about practicality.
 
#11 ·
4.88s or 5.13s. Recall that many "tow" capable trucks came with 4.10s and 30-31" from the factory when OD trans came out. My 8.1 Chevy has 4.10s and 30s stock.

I had 5.13s and 37"s with my 245 Hp 5.9 Dodge (4.10s and 32"s stock). It was decent but still too tall for towing anything over a few thousand pounds in Colorado.
 
#12 ·
For the cost of regearing your axles and adding a lift you could be well into a 60 front and 10.25 or d70 or 14 bolt rear and a SAS. Even an 8 lug 44 in the front wouldn't be horrible. You could get rid of the TTB and gain bigger brakes and a much tougher rear axle, find a set of tons with 4.10s and you'd be good.

It would carry a higher upfront cost but will save money in the long run.
 
#13 ·
Then if you're going to lift it and regear it to go places might as well put a solid axle with better brakes in the front and put at least a disc brake 9.75 in the back while you're at it. Solve the ttb issues and help stop that trailer and big tires in the mountains. Wouldn't cost much more and would help with everything.
 
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#14 ·
I went with 4.88's with 35's on a 95 f150 with a built (cam, al heads, big throttle body, headers) on a 5.8 95 f150. I would hesitate to pull anything bigger thAn a cherry picker with it. If you are serious, 4.56 or 4.88's for sure.
 
#15 ·
4.56's at the very least. E4od has a .71 overdrive and with 35s, you'll be about 2k rpms at 65. So any slower and you'll be dropping down out of od. If you go with 4.10s you can tow in 3rd at 2500rpm's. Probably be better on the trans and everything else.
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
Thanks for the input guys extremely helpful! I think I am going 4.56. I need to do more research into solid axle applications since I am unfamiliar with it but it sounds like a smart move.

brewchief seems to be on to something. I don't mind paying up front for the long run.
 
#18 ·
I'd definitely trade or sell the half ton before I'd go deeper gears, SAS, and all that shit on a half ton destined for big tires and towing that has a relatively lame engine and transmission combination already.
A 99 super duty can be had for a few grand and has all the goodies from the get go.
 
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