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Well, this really makes the decision of swapping the 5.0l in stone... Was going to swap the 4.0L(I-6)... but that seems to be more of a PIA.

I will be picking up my 60 rear end and the 5.0l next week... so I am sure I will be full of questions next month.

Someone said that the Motor mount adaptor from Advanced adapters sucks... and that the MORE is better...but dont see them on thier site and cant seem to find anyplace besides AA that makes them.
 
Will a C4 short shaft work behind the 5.0L?? I've search and it says that the C4 will fit... but nothing about short or long shafts. TIA
 
Have you run it by the dealer? I think that's about your chance because the number does not come up on the Ford Racing web site, nor does Summit list it anymore.

Might call a dealer that sells Ford Racing stuff and see if they have a catalog laying around from that year. Not much help, but I have had the same issues myself in trying to verify part numbers through Ford.
 
We're using a HO 302, Ford T-18.

What do you recommend for the t-case??

Get an adapter and use the current D-20??

This is going into a CJ5 so length is a problem.

Is there any pass side drop t=cases that will bolt up to the Ford T=18 with a factory adapter??


Thanks :smokin:
 
rock-rod said:
I would reconsider the AX15 tranny- might want to consider something else- T18, NP435, automatic (C4 or C6).
Why would you suggest to reconsider the AX-15?? I was thinking hard on the C4 and the C6... and then realized how fast this project is sucking up money.

Personal opinions - of they guys who have done this swap... would the AX-15 be alright for a couple of months to at least get the thing back on the trails? I'd also keep my stock transfer case for the same amount of time.

Whatcha think?
:smokin:
 
OK, finally going to swap the 5.0 into the TJ next week and a couple of final question's...well for now anyway. :D

1) I am running a C4 behind it and have noticed a couple of different flexplates. I know I want a 50oz one, but what tooth count do I want? Or does it matter as long as I have the corresponding tooth starter?

2) What is the best near "bolt" in mount for a TJ? It has the 4 popper in it now, and I am going to be doing this under a "semi" time constraint and I really don't want to mess with fabbing one up. I know Novak has one, Z and M has one, any others? How hard is it to make the MORE mounts work on a TJ?

That should do it for now, as I plan on ordering this stuff up tomorrow afternoon so it will be here at the beginning of next week. I will keep everyone updated with pics of the progress. :D

Thanks again for all your help!!!

Ken
 
Who to contact to have a 302 factory harness stripped and made stand alone. Non HO.
checked Painless, Fuel Injection Specialities, Who else??
 
kpj said:
OK, finally going to swap the 5.0 into the TJ next week and a couple of final question's...well for now anyway. :D

1) I am running a C4 behind it and have noticed a couple of different flexplates. I know I want a 50oz one, but what tooth count do I want? Or does it matter as long as I have the corresponding tooth starter?

2) What is the best near "bolt" in mount for a TJ? It has the 4 popper in it now, and I am going to be doing this under a "semi" time constraint and I really don't want to mess with fabbing one up. I know Novak has one, Z and M has one, any others? How hard is it to make the MORE mounts work on a TJ?

That should do it for now, as I plan on ordering this stuff up tomorrow afternoon so it will be here at the beginning of next week. I will keep everyone updated with pics of the progress. :D

Thanks again for all your help!!!

Ken
1) Make sure you get the right starter with the flexplate. I'm not sure how many tooth options there were for flexplates, but I'd stick with one from an 80's truck that used the C4.

2) Not sure which one is easily modified, but mad4wd took the advance adapter yj mounts and modified them. Stay away from the z&m mounts. In the end they wish they would have just built their own mounts though.

Bob
 
I think there were two option's, 157 and 164 tooth flexplate. So, I will plan on using the 157 tooth starter to match that.

I would love to fab my own mounts, and I am actually going to take some measurements this morning on what I would need to do. But, I also want/need this to come out right the first time around. :D
 
Jet said:
Who to contact to have a 302 factory harness stripped and made stand alone. Non HO.
checked Painless, Fuel Injection Specialities, Who else??
If you flip through to the first 4-6 pages, there are some good books and a great post on which wires you need for the speed density setup. The MAF is different, but if you pick up one or more of the books, it will definetely help you out. :)
 
kpj saw those posts, really looking for another shop to strip it. Not financially effective to tie up my shop doing this type of wiring. Don't need anything other than what's necessary to run. No smog etc. Sent the last one [GM] to Jim's performance. He stripped down the harness, checked all circuits, test ran the computer, installed a diag port. $150 + shipping had it back same week. This is what I need for the Ford harness

:cool2:
 
My harness was sent to Windsor-fox performance(apple valley, ca) (http://www.windsor-fox.com) but their web site has been down for a couple days. They did all the integration between the TJ and stang harness.

Only problem is, if you have support issues, they are very hard to get a hold of. Aside from wiring the starter, I think everything else was pretty clear.

Bob
 
Try RonMorrise.com for harness work. He builds and modifies them and can also eliminate all pollution control stuff if you don't need it.

A stock ford harness is very easy to deal with. I shouldn't take more than a few hours with a schematic to figure out the power leads, ect to get it to run.

On the other hand, it may still be possible to locate a Ford Racing stand alone harness. They are no longer in production but if you can find one it makes life super easy- it's just plug and play. It's what I used on my swap.

In regards to the C4 flexplate- you want to see which bell housing you have- I think C4s used both 157 and 164 tooth housings and they use different starters.

Finally, just build the motor mounts, or talk to MORE and see if you get a set for a wrangler. Fortunately the ford block is super easy to make the mounts for- just look at their website and duplicate what they sell.
 
Tried RonMorrise, Not found

Same with windsor-fox
 
OK, I just ripped the 2.5L, AX5, and np231 outof the TJ tonight with the help of some good friends. I will hopefully be dropping the 5.0 in Wednesday night for the final time, but I was stumped on adapting the fuel line from the TJ over the fuel rails from the 5.0. How did you guy's go about it? I will hopefully be posting pics in a thread once I get it near completed to keep you guy's updated.

Thanks again for all the great tech!!!

Ken
 
kpj said:
but I was stumped on adapting the fuel line from the TJ over the fuel rails from the 5.0. How did you guy's go about it?
I didn't retain any of the TJ fuel system, so I can't really be much help. I used a fuel cell with an in-tank pump, and new fuel/return lines to the engine, new fuel filter, and an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. All fittings were AN.

You've got to figure out how to deal with the return line, as the TJ's don't have one.

Bob
 
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