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Braking = foot & knee pain

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
braking my race buggy is killing me, I have to fix this but don't know where to start.

After a day trail riding my knee hurts bad and it lasts 2-3 days, the truck ride homes are rough.

After completing one lap last weekend (9 miles of racing) my foot is all screwed up. It hurts, like tendon and muscle pain. It was hard to push my tow rig clutch in the next day.

12" pedal
Wilwood High-Performance Disc Brakes - Pedal No: 340-1287



Dual 7/8 masters
Wilwood High-Performance Disc Brakes - MasterCylinder No: 260-6765


The buggy stops fine its just very hard to push. Front are dual piston ford dana 60 calipers, rear calipers are 3/4 chevy.





Any way to make this easier to brake? Is this an ergonomics issue with my set up?
 
#5 ·
I've been through this but my solution was not to screw with the pedal. It was the angle of the seat and distance to the pedals that caused the pain.

My foot was at a weird angle due to being too close to the pedals and my foot would start to hurt, then within an hour my leg would be killing me.

Not saying it will solve the issue, as stiffness may be the problem. But its another factor in the equation.
 
#6 ·
Yes. You're gaining a mechanical advantage over the masters with the larger ratio pedal and a hydraulic advantage over the calipers with the smaller bore masters. Each is going to net you a softer pedal with a longer travel for any given braking force. The masters are going to be cheaper and won't require any configuration change. I'd order up a couple 3/4s, replace the front and see if you like it. You can judge if you like that direction from there.
 
Discussion starter · #8 · (Edited)
Tnsejed420 said:
I've been through this but my solution was not to screw with the pedal. It was the angle of the seat and distance to the pedals that caused the pain.

My foot was at a weird angle due to being too close to the pedals and my foot would start to hurt, then within an hour my leg would be killing me.

Not saying it will solve the issue, as stiffness may be the problem. But its another factor in the equation.
Click to expand...
due to the knee joint and foot joint pain, this was actually what I suspected. the brake is much closer to me, and higher than the gas.

The brake is slightly depressed in this picture BUT it will go almost to the floor, I need to be cautious how and where I move it.

 
#9 ·
I think the guy in post 5 is more on the right track then... Judging by your pics you're pushing considerably down and forward. My seat to pedal configuration is more along the lines of a sports car where I mostly just push forward. I've got years worth of motocross damage to my knees as well and it's not an issue.

Image
 
#10 ·
That's more or less how mine was. I was able to get the pedal pain to stop by changing my seat position so I wasn't pushing down and forward. I found that as the brake depressed my ankle would make a weird move. The brake pedal also wasn't in line with my leg. My theory is that doesn't help either.

By trying to make it more like CrushinAZ's sports car position it got much better.
 
#13 ·
Have you looked into going hydroboost? Some of the setups are fairly large but could help with the amount of pedal pressure needed
 
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#14 · (Edited)
I'm just guessing here no expert but is just your knee moving when you step on the pedal or is your whole leg, I would think you would want to push with your thigh muscles as if you are standing.

Can you just tilt the master or adjust the pedal way out so you are pushing in more of a downward motion, since you sit so high, so you are more like standing on the pedal using your thigh muscles not just your knee.
 
#15 ·
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Discussion starter · #17 ·
redneckengineered said:
Smaller M/Cs will give you a much easier pedal but it will feel spongy but you'll likely stop easier. Here's a thread I started with good info

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/1078832-brakes-suck-need-better.html

I had 1" MCs with a 7:1 pedal ratio. Dropped to 3/4" MCs and it was a night and day difference.

You may just be a huge vag and if that's the case you'll never be happy without a true hydroboost setup :flipoff2:

Hydroboost Brake Assembly :: Wide Open Design
Click to expand...
You problem was a hard brake that barely moves. I've got a pretty long range of motion on mine. I wouldn't want to make it any longer at all. Would a 3/4 make my travel longer?

maybe I'm just a vag :confused:
 
#18 ·
Pokeman said:
You problem was a hard brake that barely moves. I've got a pretty long range of motion on mine. I wouldn't want to make it any longer at all. Would a 3/4 make my travel longer?

maybe I'm just a vag :confused:
Click to expand...
It's possible although it can only travel so far regardless of your master size. I would drop to 3/4 masters. You can always adjust the throw.
 
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#19 ·
You will get more travel going to 3/4. No way around it and you said the pedal already nearly goes to the floor. The thing that MIGHT help is that the hard part of the travel will be further away from you which would mean your leg would be straighter at the point you're standing on the pedal hard... Add the additional braking force and you might have an acceptable work around to your problem even if you have to relieve the floor a bit. As I said before, you can always swap a 3/4 into the front and reevaluate from there.
 
#20 ·
I would look more at your seating position than pedal components. Looks like your legs and ankles are bent a lot with your feet on the pedal. I know it's not the easiest solution, but try moving the front of the seat up to support your legs, or move the seat back so your legs are straighter.
 
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