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CharlieHo

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Currently running 33" TSLs on a complete Savvy 4" lift. No rub, no issues. It's perfect, except I just don't have the clearance needed to play on some of the big boy trails. I've got a line on a set of 36" SXs on bead locks.

Obviously, additional bump stopping will be required, and probably some fender clearancing. What else might I be looking at?

Future mods will likely be a new front axle. I've got a sleeved and gusseted HP30 currently, but, that thing is tiny.
 
HiLine front fenders.

I ran 36 Iroks for a couple years on an HP30 with chromos.

Be wise about it, dont bind it up and try to throttle out, and Synnergy Balljoints.

have a narrowed HP44 going in now, anxious to see how that does...
 
I respectfully disagree 1000% with putting $1200 worth of axle shafts into a dana 30.

A good set of chromos can be had for a couple hundred, keep a spare set with you and warranty the chromos IF you ever break them.

Chromo shafts and common sense will get you a long ways.
I disagree with putting 36's on a Dana 30.




What do we do now? :flipoff2:
 
I know from experience it can be done with reasonable reliably.

Ran that for like 5 years with only one failure and that was a NON-chromolly shaft that tweeked a ear and spit the ujoint cap... and I think that happened on an old school 35" bfg MT.

That said, I replaced a lot of balljoints tie rod ends and other stuff and my dana 30 days are behind me.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Brakes are in process of upgrade, steering is something to be considered.

I always carry spare shafts, but, luckily have never needed one for myself. I don't yet have chromos, always told myself I'd get some when I start breaking stock shafts. I wheel pretty "gently", I'm always the guy that likes to idle through everything.

I originally built my junk to be perfectly at home on the street, but, it turns out I only average around 1000 miles a year. I haul it most places and only drive it locally. Bias ply TSLs I've decided are "unbalance-able" and just live with it. It's already "illegal" as far as WV state inspection laws are concerned, I always figured if I did get popped, I would just consider it a "Risk it ticket".

I keep passing on tons, as I'm not ready to do that yet, but, that day may be coming. lol
 
Sounds like you want to do it, so just buy them and put them on. If it sucks or is too much just sell them. 36's with 4" of lift and otherwise stock really shouldn't be an issue. I had a TJ with 3" springs on 35's and 3.5bs otherwise totally stock, and with some bump stop extension it was okay. I'd guess the bead locks have less backspacing than what you have now too, so that may help. Worst case if you want to keep them, you do a home brew high line for zero dollars.

That said, you are in between full on and bolt on, so be honest with yourself. Do you really want to be right at the limit of what even a gentle driver can keep a 30 alive with, or should you just keep what you have?
 
Everyone always has these discussions about "xx" tire size vs "xxx" axle and its a dumb question to ask.

What should be asked is: "I have a line on "xxxx" brand tire in "xx" size and will be running them on "xxxxx" wheels. Reason being, the rotating mass is the real killer of shafts and i can buy a set of 37's in one brand and put them on aluminum wheels which end up weighing the same as another brand of 33's on a steelie.

With that said, I'd run the 36's if youre a "gentle" wheeler and be smart about the throttle. However, if you wanna keep up with your buddies that sounds like you may be venturing into uncharted territory as far as trail difficulty. Keep in mind that sometimes skinny pedal is the only way to get through something.
 
A D30 can definitely live for a while with 35s or bigger if you're nice to it. At one point, a guy on JF wheeled a WJ with the stock D30 / 44a for a summer with 37s on it before he threw bigger axles under there. Never broke a shaft. And plenty have done it with 35s with no issues if they're not rough on the throttle in the rocks.
 
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