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K5 to XJ to 87 Buggy

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MN99XJ

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hello to all!!

I wanted to say a formal hello to everyone and start a thread for my most recent purchase. My name is Micheal and I live in Minnesota! A couple of years ago I purchased a 1990 K5 with a 4in lift and 35in tires. Then after having it for awhile I decided to change paths and purchase a Jeep. My friend's and I got into off-roading and rock crawling. I purchased a 1999 XJ. It had a 4in short arm lift. I added 33in tires, lockers, and a 2in budget boost. I wheeled it for couple years then got tired of not being able to conquer some trails. So I began looking for something bigger :) I found a 1987 Chevrolet 2500 that has been shortened 2 times. It has a 2005 6.0 LS engine, Turbo 400 transmission, clocked NP241, Corporate 14 with disc brakes, Dana 60 with Dana 70 outers, 4.88 gears, full hydraulic steering, 15in travel Doetch Tech monotube coil-overs front and rear, full 4 link, 42in Irok's, 16.5 aluminum rims with valve stem protectors and a 9.5ti Warn winch. A little step up from where I was.

The day I bought it a friend and mine went up to Mesabi Mountain in the Iron Range and wheeled after we put some fuel in it. Then the next day we went back up to the OHV park in Gilbert. Today a couple of friends and myself went to Dresser, WI. My old Jeep snapped a front axle shaft and rear drive shaft. Then later in the day the Buggy decided it was going to pop the Yukon lockout on the passenger side blowing all the guts out.

This thread will be about me taking someone else's previous Buggy and making it my own and building it up even more.

If you have any suggestions please help! I am very new to the Buggy world.

-Micheal

(now for the main reason we all clicked the post pictures!)









 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Yeah it is not the prettiest of things but I must say I have already drug it past some rocks and it holds up just fine. I know that wheel in particular has been re-welded.

I was surprised when it went out because Yukon makes top quality products and I figured they would be the last thing to break.

Does anyone have a suggestion for new outer shaft? Chromoly? Slugs? Or should I put another set in?
 
#5 ·
I have nitro gear and axle inners outters and excaliber u joints. DMR off road was running a sale I couldnt pass up. I have solid drive flanges. Part of me wishes I went with yukon hubs for street use.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
frikenwoodro -

Thank you for you input I send them an e-mail for a price quote. I already have to do inner axle seals in the Dana 60 so mind as well upgrade while I am there. I don't think that I have to worry about street use because it is not street legal.

Do they make a pinion guard for the Chevy 60? It is just so low and I have witness marks of where it has already hit.
 
#10 ·
MN99XJ said:
frikenwoodro -

Thank you for you input I send them an e-mail for a price quote. I already have to do inner axle seals in the Dana 60 so mind as well upgrade while I am there. I don't think that I have to worry about street use because it is not street legal.

Do they make a pinion guard for the Chevy 60? It is just so low and I have witness marks of where it has already hit.
Click to expand...
Mine isnt street legal neaither but would be cool to be able to test it down the block at speed.

There is no pinion shovel for the 60 period that I know of
 
#11 ·
If it were me I would be a little worried about those upper mounts. I would personally cut them off and build a trus from axle end to axle end, and attach them to that.

Also heims may be a better option as far as attachments go. But if you are trying to pinch pennies I would redo that to take a more standard bushing from ruffstuff,diy4x or whom ever. I believe there all about the same size so gettig new ones is as easy as a click.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
Yeah I see what you are saying. I do want to do a complete truss with pinion guard on the 14 bolt but at the same time if I am going to have it out I want to do the shave kit because after years of abuse it is already working on shaving itself. My biggest issue is not knowing how to weld or having the space. I almost need to source an off road shop that will do the welding and take it in the shorts with the cost. But on the other hand I have some friends that owe me favors.

Would you say heim's would be a better set up than the bushing style I currently have?
 
#13 · (Edited)
also you may want to weld a tab to mount the lower limit strap bolt on. That single diff cover bolt will not hold up a fully unloaded 14 bolt axle. Looks good though. Those huge gussets on top of the lowers look like they are limiting your uptravel as well. Doing some slider damage there.
 
#14 ·
MN99XJ said:
Yeah I see what you are saying. I do want to do a complete truss with pinion guard on the 14 bolt but at the same time if I am going to have it out I want to do the shave kit because after years of abuse it is already working on shaving itself. My biggest issue is not knowing how to weld or having the space. I almost need to source an off road shop that will do the welding and take it in the shorts with the cost. But on the other hand I have some friends that owe me favors.

Would you say heim's would be a better set up than the bushing style I currently have?
Click to expand...

Heims:
The pros. They will last longer and they will flex more. Easier to find parts for

Cons more pron to "viberations"
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
89crawler said:
also you may want to weld a tab to mount the lower limit strap bolt on. That single diff cover bolt will not hold up a fully unloaded 14 bolt axle. Looks good though. Those huge gussets on top of the lowers look like they are limiting your uptravel as well. Doing some slider damage there.
Click to expand...
Yeah I see what you mean. I think they arms clearance themselves good so far. It is something to add to the list. I will most certainly add a separate bracket for the limiting strap when I do the TMR truss and pinion guard.

frikenwoodro said:
Heims:
The pros. They will last longer and they will flex more. Easier to find parts for

Cons more pron to "viberations"
Click to expand...
Thanks for the information. I will be looking into the heim joints since this is a fully off road vehicle for me. When I do this I am assuming I will cut the ends off and weld in inserts with threads and then install the heim joint or should I be building a whole new arm?

I am very new to the buggy world as you can tell.

As always thanks!

Mike
 
#16 ·
Im thinking if your hit your upper rear link mounts with a sledge hammer they would break off at the welds. the truss option mentioned is a solid idea.

pun intended :flipoff2:
 
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#18 · (Edited)
MN99XJ said:
I think I am following correctly but you are talking the ones on my diff right?
Click to expand...
On top of your rear diff yes. The pic where you are holding the tape measure. Looks like a potential failure point. A simple truss would be better with a gusset or two... My $0.02
 
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