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toyotatime

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
I'm out of ideas. I bought a used 22r (who knows whats been done to it) slapped all my 22re efi junk onto it and am having problems I dont understand.

First and foremost, something is up with the timing. I am using my efi dizzy (installed at 5* bftdc) and jumping the diagnostic plug.
The timing is way retarded, with the dizzy adjustment maxed out I can almost get 5* and the mark jumps around a lot. When I install the distributor one tooth over it is the exact opposite, Way advanced, adjustment fully maxed almost gets me to 5* mark jumps around a little'
I currently have it tore down to check the timing chain and it looks good. WTF else could it be?:confused:

Symptom two. when I turn on the truck, it high idles good. when the high idle kicks off it idles down to 740 RPM, then quickly climbs to 1000RPM, Then slowly climbs (60-90sec) back down to 740 RPM, then repeats. It does this consistently, all the time, every time. If I crank up the idle it does the same thing, just at a higher rpm. I assume this is related to the timing issue, possibly the computer searching???

And last and least important. Compression is 190 on cyl 1 2 and 3, cyl 4 is 160. Why is the comp 20lbs over spec on 1 2 and 3, causing a 30lbs difference with cyl 4 :confused: Is this motor even worth fighting with:confused:
 
so it sounds like you are fighting a few different problems so the first thing is did the 22re run right before you pulled it apart?
1. start to make sure you have all your wires and vacuum lines hooked up correctly and then double check. You could have a wire not all the way seated or a vacuum line not in the right spot.
2. check the TPS and AFM I have found more than my fair share of problems with these two items. Look for simple things like cracks in the intake plastic and sticking throttle cable.
3. if all this checks out, triple check
4. I wouldn't worry about the compression numbers they are probably high due to carbon build up on the piston, but 22re's are hard to kill, the block that is, the head is easy to overheat.

I'm no expert, so good luck and really check things over. It sounds like a vacuum leak to me.
 
sometimes putting the distributor in can be problematic, i recently put a new head on mine and after putting the distributor in 3 different times i thought for sure the timing chain was off a tooth because the timing was doing the same, either way to advance or way too retarded. i tried putting the distributor in one more time and it was perfect, i kept skipping a tooth when pulling out and putting back in the distributor :homer:
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
sometimes putting the distributor in can be problematic, i recently put a new head on mine and after putting the distributor in 3 different times i thought for sure the timing chain was off a tooth because the timing was doing the same, either way to advance or way too retarded. i tried putting the distributor in one more time and it was perfect, i kept skipping a tooth when pulling out and putting back in the distributor :homer:
I've had the distributor in and out 5-6 times, I'll give it another go when I get the timing chain,etc put back together.

The surging is a sign of a vacuum leak. The timing will never be right with it surging like that. Also check your TPS. And the rubber boots between the AFM and the throttle body.
I've checked for vacuum leaks using the propane method, no luck. would a vacuum leak cause this kind of surge? After high idle is done, the engine idles down to 740RPM, then fairly Quickly idles up to 1010, then climbs slowly down to 740RPM and repeats. It hits these numbers exact every time (using a digital engine analyzer) if I turn the idle up real high it does the same thing at a higher rpm, with the exact same variation in rpms. I dont know much about motors but this seems to precise and consistent to be a vacuum leak:confused:

^^He means AFM

This, TPS wont let the ECM go into bypass mode if its bad, stuck or not adjusted right. Even though the check eng light is flashing.
I installed a new factory toyota TPS. Can you confirm, you are saying that as long as the idle drops when jumping the diagnostic plug, that the adjustment of the TPS is good to go? This was my first time adjusting a TPS, The Idle does drop when jumping the diagnostic plug
 
I installed a new factory toyota TPS. Can you confirm, you are saying that as long as the idle drops when jumping the diagnostic plug, that the adjustment of the TPS is good to go? This was my first time adjusting a TPS, The Idle does drop when jumping the diagnostic plug
that is correct (idle drop means, and should be watched, the timing retards)
 
I was going to quote you, but too much work. The surging is a vacuum leak symptom all day long. Check the brake booster, intake obviously, then start pinching off or disconnecting hoses.

Not to say it could be something else, but that is what I've seen almost every time.

Do you have a vacuum gauge? That can help diag these types of problems also.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
One of the timing guides was cracked, so I picked up a timing kit. I will be putting the engine back together tomorrow.

From what you guys are saying it sounds like the timing issue and the idle issue are seperate problems. I am not opposed to buying a vacuum gauge, but I Have never used one. Im assuming a vacuum gauge will tell me if I have a leak or not, is that correct?:homer:
 
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