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Wheel spacer lug nut solution.

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#23 ·
chris, i know you aren't there any more, but can you give me the part number for those nuts/lugs? i've been contacting marlin crawler since before you left and they actually left a note on your desk. no one there seems to know what i am asking for. it would be sooooooooooo much easier if i had a part number.

if you can help me thanx, if not i understand.









mike
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
Honestly I don't have a part number for the special long reach nuts. The wheel spacers and the nuts in question were purchased from MC Motorsports. When MC Motorsports was contacted about the incorrect machining problem they provided the long reach nuts as a solution.

I know Marlin has the long reach nuts on the shelf and they would really like to take care of you on this. Some of the newer sales people working there were hired after those spacers were sold. All the wheel spacers they sell now use a standard nut, so some of the staff would not understand the problem your having. Call again and ask for Dave, he is the sales manager and knows all about the issue with the nuts.
 
#25 ·
Chris Geiger said:
Honestly I don't have a part number for the special long reach nuts. The wheel spacers and the nuts in question were purchased from MC Motorsports. When MC Motorsports was contacted about the incorrect machining problem they provided the long reach nuts as a solution.

I know Marlin has the long reach nuts on the shelf and they would really like to take care of you on this. Some of the newer sales people working there were hired after those spacers were sold. All the wheel spacers they sell now use a standard nut, so some of the staff would not understand the problem your having. Call again and ask for Dave, he is the sales manager and knows all about the issue with the nuts.
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before you left marlin, dave (i am pretty sure dave was the one i was handed off to)told me he would leave a message on your desk(he said you were out for a few days) because he didn't seem to know what i was talking about .it has been a couple of months(before marlin moved) and i'm just getting frustrated, sorry to bug you , they told me you knew what i needed, and then i find out that you aren't there any more. that explaines the cust. service (like when you left all pro).


if you do come across the part # for those nuts please pm me.


thanx mike

ps i also e-mailed you and then you answered this thread.
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
Panos said:
so if i buy a set of the 1.5 inch witch i was planning on doing will they come with the right lugs?
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Yes. This is no longer a problem. Now all spacers sold by Marlin, All Pro and Trail-Gear use the same nuts and have similar machining depth.
 
#30 ·
Chris Geiger said:
Ok we gota solve this problem, send me your address and I will personally ship it to you on Monday.
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Wow I dont know Mr.Geiger but I can say thats stand up at its best.

I was recently (I think it was 12-2) on the marlin BBS and replied to a post Mr.Geiger had stated that the high-steer would be staying at $349 now looking at the web site and the price has changed I simply asked if I was "missing something" when I returned to the site the post was deleted.?
 
#31 ·
Chris could you post a pic of your back drop setup. I just got the D70 and all the same gear you listed and I am looking for a back drop set-up for my small time ebay business.
 
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Discussion starter · #32 ·
I use pressboard that has one side white. You can find this at most hardware stores. It comes in 4x8 sheets. For smaller items I use a piece of white construction paper for the same effect. White balance is key. It's very hard to get a camera to shoot pure white. It will take time playing with the manual white balance controls. Never shoot in full auto, I use the Aperture priority setting and them overexpose each photo slightly.

Here is the "studio room" at home. It's just the guest bed with the whiteboard on top.
 

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Discussion starter · #33 ·
I like to get products to stand up in the photos for a more 3D look. Some times it's very tricky to get some items to stand up. I use fresh blades of grass or coins to balance some items.

This shackle photo was taken using two blades of grass under the shackles. It took a long time to get them both to stand the way I wanted them too. After the photo was shot, I used Photoshop to edit out the grass blades.


Image
 

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Discussion starter · #34 ·
In this photo I was able to balance the bearings against the race to make them stand up.

Image


To get the lighting and shadows correct I use an external SB800 Speedlight Flash unit. Soon I will be getting additional flash units to better control product shadows. These units are remote controlled by the camera.
 

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#35 ·
Cool photography tech!

I use an old low-buck digital comera for my amatuer shots (definitely less than $200). I put white computer printing paper down as a background. It's cheaper than project board. I usually damage it with dirty parts rendering it non-reusable anyway. Here's a sample picture. The only Photoshop I did to this one was to adjust the color/lighting balance.

Image


I was inspired by Chris's pictures. I could tell he puts some time into getting them just right. I only take one or two shots to choose from, don't bother with lighting, and usually don't do any touchup in Photoshop. It produces decent enough results for very little expense.
 
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Discussion starter · #36 ·
That's a great photo!

One thing I would do is hit the background with a white paint bucket to remove the paper outline and the seem between the board under the part and the board behind the part.

Now it's all white...
 

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#37 ·
Thanks for the info. I just love playing with the D70s! Instant gradification.
So you use the SB800 on a trypod and just the pop up flash for now, right. You don't have 2 SB800 yet or do you?
 
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Discussion starter · #38 ·
I have just the one for now. I want to get two more SB600's next year. I don't need the full power of the 800 for most shots. The 600's have about 1/2 the power of the 800.

I normally point the SB800 flash at the ceiling. The flash reflects off the roof and around the room. This disperses the light and prevents hard shadows and hot spots common with direct flash exposures.


The photo below is one of the rare times that I want to add a hot spot to the part. This crossmember is solid black and really looks boring with no surface character. I used the remote flash unit set really low (1/32nd) and shooting from my right side. The light crosses in front of the camera and reflects on the left side of the crossmember illuminating the surface. An over cast sky provided the light needed for the balance of the photo.

An artificial drop shadow was added under the crossmember in photoshop.


Image
 
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