I hung the front clip back on my 75 F250 this afternoon, hoping to get a jump on the wiring, to find that the radiator and the cooling fan are going to be in about the same place. So pretty close turned into really close. I will be using a brand new big block, camper spec, blah blah drop in radiator, that I already had flopped for the 6BT. The motor is stock. My tranny cooler is mounted under the bed with a fan on it. I can't move the rad. forward, and dont have room for fans in front because of the intercooler and the ac condenser. I checked out summit, but need to know what kind of CFMs I need for this motor. I can get low profile fans that will fit, but need to make sure that they will work. I live in tucson AZ and it stays over 100 all summer. The truck will be a DD and will be used to tow random rigs, light trucks and cars on a 16' trailer. Thanks in advance for any replies.
Help! Need electric fans for CTD
PROJECTJUNKIE
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I hung the front clip back on my 75 F250 this afternoon, hoping to get a jump on the wiring, to find that the radiator and the cooling fan are going to be in about the same place. So pretty close turned into really close. I will be using a brand new big block, camper spec, blah blah drop in radiator, that I already had flopped for the 6BT. The motor is stock. My tranny cooler is mounted under the bed with a fan on it. I can't move the rad. forward, and dont have room for fans in front because of the intercooler and the ac condenser. I checked out summit, but need to know what kind of CFMs I need for this motor. I can get low profile fans that will fit, but need to make sure that they will work. I live in tucson AZ and it stays over 100 all summer. The truck will be a DD and will be used to tow random rigs, light trucks and cars on a 16' trailer. Thanks in advance for any replies.
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anybody?
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lol your going to have a hard time keeping it cool with electric all the aftermarket ones are junk. prob your only chance is to run 2 taurus fans side by side. i was told by someone that a 16" manual fan moves between 5000 and 6000 cfm at 3500rpm if that give you a better idea about the reatings on most electrics
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You might try your local cummins shop, they should have some info. When we re-powered some forklifts with 4BT's the local cummins engineers helped us figure out the cooling. We ended up upgrading the stock radiators from the original gas chrysler 6cyl unit and building a custom shroud to make it work.
Also check with dieseltruckresource.com and www.turbodieselregister.com in the conversion forums.
Also check with dieseltruckresource.com and www.turbodieselregister.com in the conversion forums.
There have been numerous threads on TDR regarding the use of electric fans on CTDs to eliminate the power robbing mechanical fan. I don't think any of attempts succeeded - unless it was absolutely a non-towing application. And then it was marginal.
Brian
Brian
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A friend of mine builds turbo cars for a living, (and has a 3208 cat in his ford PU) he suggested a factory fan from an 03 cobra, he had one ready to go on a customers car, and I checked it out. He says it pulls like 80A on startup and requires heavy wiring and a huge relay. I removed my fan and fan clutch today and installed my radiator. I have 4.25" from the core to the timing cover, the cobra fan is 5.25". I thought about moving the radiator flush up against the core support, which would net me almost an inch, but not enough to keep the fan off of the motor. I was also looking at the lower radiator hose configuration, the lower fitting is really low, I'd have to wrap a hose around a Xmember, I could make it work and look good, but a PITA. I have an 89 W350 (non intercooled) stashed that is going to be the donor for the next truck, and I took some measurments, the fan hub to core support is the same distance as on the ford. My intercooler will barely fit around the radiator, but it will work. I have enough space to mount it, and maybe even run the shroud. This is the 1st bump in a pretty smooth road, everything else was pretty simple.The next truck will likely be a 2wd to start, so the frame will be stripped, and have new xmembers made, the drivetrain will sit lower and further back, so it won't be a problem to use the modified radiator I have, especially if I use a body lift.
PROJECTJUNKIE said:
So do Taurus and Mark VIII fans.. and they're nowhere near enough.
The radiator on a CTD is huge for a reason.. and diesel has more BTU/gal than gas... that heat has to go somewhere!
You might find that empty you're OK, but put a load on that sucker, and $5 says you'll overheat.
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Mechanical energy?Eskimo said:
I didn't want to run an electric fan if I didn't have to; effectiveness, reliability, and the $300 to do it right. By going with the 89 dodge radiator, I gain enough room for the factory fan and clutch. Looks like I can run the 89 ac condensor and the 91 intercooler with some trimming.
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you know... as much as this would suck...
I'de consider making the front clip 3-4 inches longer.
I'de consider making the front clip 3-4 inches longer.
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Sounds like you've got it figured out. Just out of curiosity, how close is your engine to the firewall?
The truck has a nice big hump for the 300 I6, the rear valve cover is about flush with the majority of the firewall, and I can make a fist behind the head. Later this year I will start another truck, a 67-79 ford crew cab short bed with the entire drivetrain from the 89 W350 donor truck. That truck will likely start as a 2wd, so I will already be scrapping crossmembers and needing new driveshafts, so I will set that drivetrain low and farther back, but I wanted to do this truck with minimal modifications, I left the front crossmember stock, notched the next one (between front cab mounts) for the trans pan, took the xmember that the tranny mount bolts to, ground the rivets off of the frame, slid it back about 12" lowered if 1" and drilled and bolted it. Took the slip yoke and the old intermediate shaft to the DS shop and had them cut it down to 7" center to center. All of this was pretty straightforward, but I was expecting the radiator to be a little easier, but the dodge rad is a better setup for how high and close the motor is.
you know... as much as this would suck...
I'de consider making the front clip 3-4 inches longer.
:shaking: this is my coyboy cadillac, black and silver ranger XLT, all the factory chrome, 79 grille with the rectangle headlights, its a fawkin beautiful truck, not messin with the body.
I mounted up the radiator, will fit fine with the factory fan in there, cut the core support and trimmed the grille shell and made room for the intercooler, I have about 1.25" between the rad core and the vert support for the hood latch where I can mount the condenser. I removed the Tstat housing from the 89 and mocked it up on the motor (sent the better half out for some CUMMINS BEIGE paint, no luck) but the hoses fit perfectly with a little trimming. By eyeballing the condenser in the 89 it looks like it might fit, which would be sweet, cause its paid for, I have hoses, and I don't have to go digging through catalouges for dimensions. I can get a universal one through summit for $75 if all else fails. Hopefully I'll have all this nailed down tomorrow, but the daily drivers are needing some TLC.
The truck has a nice big hump for the 300 I6, the rear valve cover is about flush with the majority of the firewall, and I can make a fist behind the head. Later this year I will start another truck, a 67-79 ford crew cab short bed with the entire drivetrain from the 89 W350 donor truck. That truck will likely start as a 2wd, so I will already be scrapping crossmembers and needing new driveshafts, so I will set that drivetrain low and farther back, but I wanted to do this truck with minimal modifications, I left the front crossmember stock, notched the next one (between front cab mounts) for the trans pan, took the xmember that the tranny mount bolts to, ground the rivets off of the frame, slid it back about 12" lowered if 1" and drilled and bolted it. Took the slip yoke and the old intermediate shaft to the DS shop and had them cut it down to 7" center to center. All of this was pretty straightforward, but I was expecting the radiator to be a little easier, but the dodge rad is a better setup for how high and close the motor is.
you know... as much as this would suck...
I'de consider making the front clip 3-4 inches longer.
:shaking: this is my coyboy cadillac, black and silver ranger XLT, all the factory chrome, 79 grille with the rectangle headlights, its a fawkin beautiful truck, not messin with the body.
I mounted up the radiator, will fit fine with the factory fan in there, cut the core support and trimmed the grille shell and made room for the intercooler, I have about 1.25" between the rad core and the vert support for the hood latch where I can mount the condenser. I removed the Tstat housing from the 89 and mocked it up on the motor (sent the better half out for some CUMMINS BEIGE paint, no luck) but the hoses fit perfectly with a little trimming. By eyeballing the condenser in the 89 it looks like it might fit, which would be sweet, cause its paid for, I have hoses, and I don't have to go digging through catalouges for dimensions. I can get a universal one through summit for $75 if all else fails. Hopefully I'll have all this nailed down tomorrow, but the daily drivers are needing some TLC.
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been there, too much $$, too much work; cut the crossmember, relocate the ac, buy an adaptor plate, bolt it up to a ford tranny, buy a tranny controller, etc. Mines more grind to fit, paint to match.
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