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Indyguy said:
Geeze randii... seeing that front driveshaft angle makes me glad I'm using a high pinion axle:eek:
Yeah, it was a challenge making U-joints live until I swapped in dual 'cases.

Randii
 
NOODLES said:
she would need a forward facing pitman arm with the box to go with it. there is no other safe way to move the axle forward with her steering.
Well, beside ditching the high-steer, or running the drag link directly to the tie rod, or running a relay rod, or... :p

Front driveline is a challenge for angle, but is easy to either swap an alignment biscuit in to align the indices, swap the yoke onto the U-joint, or retube a half from each make. Poke around a bit on 4x4Wire's Isuzu forum -- there's many different ways to skin the SAS drivshaft cat.

Be warned: the Isuzu 2wd trans has an awfully long tailhousing. Those front lower brackets take some serious effort to cut, that's for sure!

Randii
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
I still haven't gotten pics, but I plan to tomorrow and I'll have em up. Thank you guys for your input, it's very helpful. Randii, your pictures help me get more ideas and my brain's been spinnin all day with ideas of this and that :D Jeremy, I'm still exploring options before goin with the 2wd trans and divorced tcase :) But if it comes down to it, you'll be the first to know.
 
randii said:
Well, beside ditching the high-steer, or running the drag link directly to the tie rod, or running a relay rod, or... :p

Front driveline is a challenge for angle, but is easy to either swap an alignment biscuit in to align the indices, swap the yoke onto the U-joint, or retube a half from each make. Poke around a bit on 4x4Wire's Isuzu forum -- there's many different ways to skin the SAS drivshaft cat.

Be warned: the Isuzu 2wd trans has an awfully long tailhousing. Those front lower brackets take some serious effort to cut, that's for sure!

Randii
you run the drag link to the tie rod, it will not move the location of where the draglink pops onto the pitman. , it rubs the draglink at the rod end at the pitman, not at the point where it meets the arm. and to get rid of the highsteer would be stupid, she is running highsteer to keep her steering safe. I have a crossover low steer arm, but I would not let her do it, especially with all the problems I had in the last year running with my steering below the springs in my yota. fordyce was unforgiving till they moved the rocks for sierra trek on winch hill one.

we were going to try a toy flange from a 84 and newer toy on the front diff, but even if you could put the toy flange on the t-case output, it was not going to work. dual c/v's will not work, because it will act as a output spacers, and have to drop down at a higher angle. I haven't seen amany yokes that will drop down more than a non c/v toyota 84 and newer yoke and u-joint.
 
NOODLES said:
you run the drag link to the tie rod, it will not move the location of where the draglink pops onto the pitman. , it rubs the draglink at the rod end at the pitman, not at the point where it meets the arm.
Scooting the axle forward a couple of inches should put the Pitman TRE behind the tie rod, if that's what's interfering? Tough to visualize from my couch, tho. :p

NOODLES said:
...and to get rid of the highsteer would be stupid, she is running highsteer to keep her steering safe.
FWIW, I agree that yanking the high-steer would be silly, but it certainly does complicate the clearance issues. I just carry a spare tie rod assembly zip-tied to a crossmember, but honestly I'd rather have high steer.

There are several Isuzu yokes... you're close enough that maybe you can swing by my place over the weekend and I'll show you the different Isuzu yokes in comparison to the Toyota yokes. I've got a bunch of both still laying around that you could compare. The Toy and Isuzu U-joints use the same caps, but the trunions are different length... close enough so that you can make 'em work with light grinding, if you want. I definitely recommend a limit strap for passenger-side droop, as I had to get pretty good at reassembly hyperextended front drivelines on the trail, back when I was running the Isuzu drivetrain.

Your fab looks great under the Amigo -- it is just the clearances that are a bitch. Pretty much everybody runs into these issues on SAS Isuzus, which is why so many folks take the path of least resistance and kick the axle so far forward.

Randii
 
Great pics -- you can definitely see the interference issues. I was trolling on another board for someone to make a blank pitman arm with internal splines to match the Isuzu sector shaft. Man would it be handy here... to the point that it might be worthwhile to turn down an Isuzu Pitman arm and press it into a chunk of thick plate, with a full-pen weld top and bottom.

The ability to put the Pitman anywhere you want, and face the taper any direction you want... that would solve your interference challenge, and if you made th Pitman arm the same length between centers as a Toyota arm, you'd have better steering, at the same time. Right now with the Isuzu Pitman moving a Toyota high-steer arm, the leverages are off.

Randii
 
I think the amigo pitman was quite a bit shorter in lenght than the toyota. I thought about the cutiing out the part of the arm that splines on the septor shaft, the way they do it on cruiser for saginaw p/s. but the arm to be easy would be flat, and hit the frame, and also would move her draglink to a higher angle and cause bumpsteer, then more room would have to be takin with a panhard. I am going to try and find her another toyota box and see if we can get her out here one week and do that.
I used to live in fair oaks, so I am very familiar with the area. so maybe I will stop by sometime. I think she left one of her old yokes to match.
 
I'm pretty lazy when it comes to relocating and/or swapping the Isuzu box, especially when it hold up so well to abuse (shortie Pitman notwithstanding). I'll PM you my cell phone if you want to swing by.

None of this is really rocket science, and there are plenty of ways to skin this cat. I look forward to seeing how you do it! :cool2:

Randii
 
Lookin good! Now that u have the grindage started for the shocks, u can get some ideas of where to mount the new steering and then weld up ur shock hoops and stuff.
 
randii said:
Great pics -- you can definitely see the interference issues. I was trolling on another board for someone to make a blank pitman arm with internal splines to match the Isuzu sector shaft. Man would it be handy here... to the point that it might be worthwhile to turn down an Isuzu Pitman arm and press it into a chunk of thick plate, with a full-pen weld top and bottom.
Theres a company here in NZ who will spark-erode a new spline into a blank for you if you can provide a sample slpine for their equipment to copy... must be squillions of companies over there that can do it? I was going to get a Toy pitman arm re-tapered and splined to fit mine... cost stopped me. It was around $500NZ to have one made, and no real cost benefit for doing 2 or more.

randii said:
Right now with the Isuzu Pitman moving a Toyota high-steer arm, the leverages are off.
I had this problem with my Amigo SAS as well... I used a more basic setup than hi-steer tho, so was able to just make a 20mm (just over 3/4" ? ) plate and bend it to suit (I ended up re-bending it due to mis-measurement - hence the limp dick look it has :grinpimp: )

This is what I started off with: Just a second arm flipped with longer machined HT studs and double cone-washers so its locked up and down:
Image

Image


Then the arm I manufactured to get around the fact I had NO steering lock whatsoever... the Isuzu pitman arm is just waaay too short.
Image

Image


The last one shows how I had to bend it down again to clear the chassis rail during up-flex on that side... measure twice, bend three times :shaking: The steering gave me grief on this project... still problems just make you think of interesting solutions :)

Hope that helps in some way

Steve
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
Thanks Steve for the pics and info! I don't seem to have a problem at the knuckle..... yet. Very helpful! It feels like my second box is going out already, so when the time comes, I'll have to figure out a different box that will more suit my setup.... we'll see :D

8S, shocks will come soon, I just gotta find someone to bend up my hoops for me so I can get em on
 
Nissan Safari / Patrol (do you guys have those ever there?) steering boxes look like a possible answer. They have a forward facing pitman arm, they are beefy and they mount to the outside of the frame rail. Thats probably what I'm going to look at fitting to mine to stop all the nasty bump-steer I get in this setup.

Oh, and shocks - I did a quick-n-dirty set of front mounts... took about 30 minutes to make and fit both and I really thought they would die way before now but they're still holding up well (although I will beef them up soon):

Image


Just some 40mm box (1 3/4"?)... ugly but functional for now till I replace those shocks with some longer ones (when my wallet recovers from the conversion :p )

Steve
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
Nice!! I like that shock setup! A Nissan Safari? I'm not sure I've heard of em, but then again, I've never looked :D somethin to keep in mind! Thanks for the pic, gives me an idea of what to do if I don't get the hoops bent tomorrow!
 
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