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Logjam-grant

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
What would you guys suggest for a front axle on 45s?

Long fields, forged steering arms, stronger knuckle studs?

Also, is the lower ratio 4.10 going to be stronger than the 5.29 cryo from long due to more tooth contact? If the 5.29 cryo is stronger, where does that put the next weakness? Still the gears?

I figure since the axle has 210,000 miles it needs a rebuild. Even if it had less miles its probably a smart idea to have everything in my favor...

$635 - Longfield Super Axles
$200 - Drive flanges

$145 - MC-12006, Knuckle Kit W/Wheel Bearings
$8.50 - MC-12004, Wheel Bearing Nut Kit
$8.50 - MC-12004, Wheel Bearing Nut Kit
$5 - MC-12109, Inner Axle Seal
$5 - MC-12109, Inner Axle Seal

Also, I'm kind of confused about all of the transfer case gear selections. One of them is 4.7:1 from marlin crawler and the other one is 5:1 from Poly Performance? Was poly performance just rounding up?

I'm a little scared guys. Here is the toyota truck with tire and then the 45... :grinpimp:

Image
 
im not sure toy axles can handle that...well not for extreme wheeling at least.

edit* adding more

most guys, i've read, would move up to 1 tons (d60,14bolt) or 2.5 tons (rockwells).
 
i say run it. you are not going to be in a high traction area (well.. those tires are pretty high traction but still). currently we are running 49" iroks on a dana44 front with alloy shafts and ctms.. broke 2 alloy stub shafts.. stuck a stock 10bolt stub and 760 joint and it went to EJS and didnt break a thing.


i say with 30 spline longfields you should be ok
 
your formula for the axle seems good, considering the projected weight and power of your buggy, but make sure to gusset the inner knuckles top and bottom. You may even be wise to cobble a jig together to hold tha axle true while you truss it. It would be a shame to put all that bling into a stock housing, just to have the housing bend.
 
Theres a link to a site in some of the threads about gears showing sizes and contact areas of 4.11 and 5.29/5.71 gears. If I were you I would try the 5.71's. Youre going to need all the gearing you can get. The T-case gears are different. You can get 4.0 4.7 or 5.1. I dont know who exactly sells each though. I get my T-case stuff from adventurous4x4.
 
as for the 2 different tcase gears, Poly was rounding up, but only by a tiny bit, not .3. the gear ratio difference between the marlin gears and the advanced gears that poly sells is definite, none-the-less.

also, i would have bobby work his magic on the 4.10's and the drive flanges cos those meats look heavy:eek: get some new ARP hub studs and knuckle studs from FROR and some pins from hendrix... as a matter or fact, look up 4RnrRick's combo of axle goodies and try to do the same as it's probably the strongest combo for the toy axle. Get the right kind of drive flange for the hendrix pin kit (i dunno what to tell you to look for as i haven't payed any attention to the flange market yet) of course, you should get the forged steering arms. Oh, and do the normal beef for the rear if need be.

on another note, i bet you are gonna have a lot of rubbing in the front when you turn.


why not just run those tires on the tractor they came off of and call it a day?
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
So which set of t-case gears do you guys think is the best???

This is the tractor they came off of:

Image
 
don't even bother trying to run a tire like that on a toyota diff :rolleyes:
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
UF_student said:
some pins from hendrix...
The hendrix motor sports chasis people? Pins for the drive flanges?
 
Longfield has some stonger internal hub parts, and then Hendrix adds four alignment pins to the hubs. this along with arp studs should be alot stronger than drive flanges, and selectable. And for diff gear strength, I believe it's a matter of size and quality, not tooth contact alone.
 
i wouldn't waste my money on that knowing that the housing will bend on either end of the spring. i bent 2 axle housings running 37s on the drivers side. and i did impact it pretty hard both times, but i bet that those tires will deliver the bend even quicker at less of a bump. put a big dog axle under there instead.
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
On Monday a friend is going to take my pickup and tires 50 miles away to another guy who has a toyota with stock front axle and stock rear axle. He has some kind of straight 6 toyota engine. He is going to put them on his truck and drive around while my other friend video tapes. Then I will post the video here.

If a stock birf holds up, then a longfield will for sure. :)
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
missouriman said:
If this is the Grant that I am thinking of...

what happened to your rockwells? and that other beast you were building?

anymore granto,visions to share? What else are you working on in the shop?
I see that your origional site is now gone.
That thing is too heavy for me to work on by myself, and way to heavy to work on by myself without health insurance. :)

go to www.alaska4x4network.com for grant-o-vations. I'm building a tube frame chasis out of pipe for these axles and tires. I'm going to power it with a 3 cylinder geo metro engine which will have a belt drive transmission off of a polaris 4 wheeler. It will be one unique rig!
 
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