TOTW: Ford 302 engine swaps

Jobless · May 17, 2006

blue66tang said:
I read o about 7 pages and then jumpted to the end here. Has anybody used the stock t5 tranny behind a 5.0. If so, what did you use for the bellhousing. I am going to try and do the swap this summer and would like to use the stock t5. Somepeople say this wont hold up, but I will decide that. I have had very good luck with the t5 behind my 11 second stroker 332 in my mustang. thanks
Nic

5.0L HO's came stock with T5's in the Mustangs...use the bellhousing it came with.

They are right...the T5 is a light duty tranny.

Jobless · May 17, 2006

I through an '89 5.0L HO along with an Atlas II and NV4500 in the YJ back in 2001 when it was still a daily driver.

Stripped the wiring harness, removed the air pollution equipment, converted to saginaw pump, etc...

Best thing I ever did.

Might add a cam, injectors and roller rockers this winter. It needed a little more poop at the dunes.

blue66tang · May 17, 2006

Jobless said:
5.0L HO's came stock with T5's in the Mustangs...use the bellhousing it came with.

They are right...the T5 is a light duty tranny.

So the input shafts are the same? What about the clutch, and throw out. IM assuming use the ford stuff right?

Hackfabricaton · May 17, 2006

Cams

Picked up my 5.0 Ford Racing Crate motor yesterday from a guy off eBay. Motor had around 1000 miles on it and it looks perfect. :smokin:

Not only got the basic crate motor, but got the GT40 manifold, 65mm throttle body, 30# injectors, BBK adjustable fuel regulator, MSD distributor, MSD coil and wires, and a Pro-Flow MAF calibrated for the 30# injectors. And a whole bunch of other stuff the guy was clearing out of his garage. $2600 for everything :grinpimp:

Question is this: The motor has the B303 cam in it. I'm considering swapping it for the E303 (or any 'RV' spec cam) to get the power band lower. I'm also thinking about installing a set of 1.6 roller rockers. I'm running 4.56 gears with a combined low crawl of 90:1 and presently with 32-34 inch tires. Jeep will see a variety of terrains, including dunes, mud and trails.

Let me hear everyone's cam choice and why this works for you.

Freshmeat · May 23, 2006

Wow. That is WAY too much fuel injector for that motor. It would do fine with 19# and you could run 24#ers to be safe, but 30? Come on...

The E cam would be a little bit better, but I'm not sure you'd really see enough difference to be worth the time/money. I'd do the 1.6s and install an adjustable timing assembly so you can advance the cam 4*.

...and eBay the 30# equipment to trade for 24# at the most... the MAF computer can likely balance it fairly well, but I'm willing to bet you'd get better mileage and performance with the smaller squirters.

Just my opinion.

spectra · May 23, 2006

I just got mine running specs are 24# inj, B cam (sounds sweet and has plenty of power), 1.7 rockers and P heads. Everything else is pretty much stock. Oh and no smog stuff. Now am trying to find a leak it is comeing out of the main but everything is leading to crankcase pressure pushing it out.

rock-rod · May 23, 2006

spectra said:
I just got mine running specs are 24# inj, B cam (sounds sweet and has plenty of power), 1.7 rockers and P heads. Everything else is pretty much stock. Oh and no smog stuff. Now am trying to find a leak it is comeing out of the main but everything is leading to crankcase pressure pushing it out.

Glad you are running! Is the leak coming from the front or rear? Reason I ask is because I too had a nasty leak and thought it was a main seal or oil pan> It turned out to be the lower intake to lifter valley end seal at the rear of the intake. I used a mirror and flash light to isolate the source.It was a PIA to fix but better than dropping the pan.

Hackfabricaton · May 23, 2006

Yeah, I'm a bit concerned about the 30# injectors also, but they were part of the deal. The guy I got this from said it ran sweet and had a nice idle sound. I think I'm going to install and run this as it's setup for now. If it's too much, it's easy to swap for smaller ones with the motor in the Jeep.

mudyj94 · May 23, 2006

sorry for the newbie question, what fuel pump are yall running and are they intank or external pumps? Is there any way that I can get away with a stock 94 YJ pump?

rock-rod · May 23, 2006

Hackfabricaton said:
Yeah, I'm a bit concerned about the 30# injectors also, but they were part of the deal. The guy I got this from said it ran sweet and had a nice idle sound. I think I'm going to install and run this as it's setup for now. If it's too much, it's easy to swap for smaller ones with the motor in the Jeep.

You wont have any issues with the 30 lb injectors. heck, i run 42s. As long as the MAF is calibrated for the injector size, it will run just fine, and it won't even come close to maxing out the duty cycle, which is a good thing. You *may* have idle issues, but with the cam I really don't think you will notice it unless the motor is really lugging down less than 900 rpm. The 30s give you lot's of room to grow anyways. When you get into the 42 range, then you may need a chip or tuner to dial back the amount of fuel injected while cranking the motor to start. I had to do this with the 42s. The uec ignores the MAF while cranking and just opens the injectors based on a hard-coded amount of time (milliseconds). As soon as the engine fires, the ecu starts using the MAF output and then dials back the injectors, so you may get a brief rich situation while cranking. Like I said, this is more of an issue with the big injectors (42 and above). One trick around this issue is to floor the throttle when you try to start and this will put the ecu in clear-flood mode.

rock-rod · May 23, 2006

Freshmeat said:
Wow. That is WAY too much fuel injector for that motor. It would do fine with 19# and you could run 24#ers to be safe, but 30? Come on...

The E cam would be a little bit better, but I'm not sure you'd really see enough difference to be worth the time/money. I'd do the 1.6s and install an adjustable timing assembly so you can advance the cam 4*.

...and eBay the 30# equipment to trade for 24# at the most... the MAF computer can likely balance it fairly well, but I'm willing to bet you'd get better mileage and performance with the smaller squirters.

Just my opinion.

can't just swap injectors, the MAF has to be matched. And since he has a matched MAF to the 30 lb injectors, he will be fine.

spectra · May 24, 2006

rock-rod said:
Glad you are running! Is the leak coming from the front or rear? Reason I ask is because I too had a nasty leak and thought it was a main seal or oil pan> It turned out to be the lower intake to lifter valley end seal at the rear of the intake. I used a mirror and flash light to isolate the source.It was a PIA to fix but better than dropping the pan.

No it is coming from the main. Pulled the t-case and tranny and the back of the manifold is dry as a bone. You can see the oil coming from the main. It is a weird leak it drips every once in a while when it is running but when you shut it off it pours out a puddle about 3 inchs wide. Have been told that the pcv and the screen that it goes into could be the problem. Crankcase might be getting to much pressure. Do not want to pull the main out and replace it.

rock-rod · May 24, 2006

spectra said:
No it is coming from the main. Pulled the t-case and tranny and the back of the manifold is dry as a bone. You can see the oil coming from the main. It is a weird leak it drips every once in a while when it is running but when you shut it off it pours out a puddle about 3 inchs wide. Have been told that the pcv and the screen that it goes into could be the problem. Crankcase might be getting to much pressure. Do not want to pull the main out and replace it.

Well that does suck

Seems the pcv could not cause that much pressure unless the hose coming from the oil fill tube and connecting to the throttle body is plugged.

sorry.

spectra · May 24, 2006

rock-rod said:
Well that does suck

Seems the pcv could not cause that much pressure unless the hose coming from the oil fill tube and connecting to the throttle body is plugged.

sorry.

Talked with a few off Corral and a few of them seem to think it is where the pcv plugs into. A few have said it would not be the first time a perfectly good main has leaked.

Hackfabricaton · May 24, 2006

I'm gonna be running two fuel pumps: One external low pressure (carter 4070) to pull the fuel outta the tank and into an accumulator. And another external high pressure (haven't decided on which one) to feed the injectors. Should be able to run both off the one 30amp relay, but may decide to split the harness relay into two separate ones. The install begins next month!

BTC_CJ7 · May 24, 2006

Radiator Outlet for the 5.0

Has anyone had the problem of the radiator outlet hose rubbing on the steering shaft? Are you using a stock radiator? Options such as custom radiator? If not, how were you able to mount the radiator and have the clearance for the hose?

rock-rod · May 24, 2006

BTC_CJ7 said:
Has anyone had the problem of the radiator outlet hose rubbing on the steering shaft? Are you using a stock radiator? Options such as custom radiator? If not, how were you able to mount the radiator and have the clearance for the hose?

Yes some have had issues. A radiator shop should be able to reposition the outlet at an angle to give you enough room.

tonedawgg · May 24, 2006

mudyj94 said:
sorry for the newbie question, what fuel pump are yall running and are they intank or external pumps? Is there any way that I can get away with a stock 94 YJ pump?

I got my pumps/accumulator from this link http://bcbroncos.com/store/index.php?cPath=27_51_108

Jerry Blair · May 24, 2006

I'm using a stock TJ tank & fuel pump. I modified the tank to accept a return fuel line. It works great. The 94 YJ pump should work well too.

randii · May 24, 2006

spectra said:
Talked with a few off Corral and a few of them seem to think it is where the pcv plugs into. A few have said it would not be the first time a perfectly good main has leaked.

I'm interested to see the discussions on Corral -- I may have that going on, as well... seems to only leak appreciably after shutoff, and not when running. Weird, since I'd expect the crankcase to be under vaccuum while running, and not pressurized... my new motor better not be in blow-by mode yet (though maybe it just hasn't fully seated the rings?).

Anyway, post up links to corral.net if you've got 'em! :cool2:

Randii

TOTW: Ford 302 engine swaps

Jobless

Jobless

blue66tang

Hackfabricaton

Freshmeat

spectra

rock-rod

Hackfabricaton

mudyj94

rock-rod

rock-rod

spectra

rock-rod

spectra

Hackfabricaton

BTC_CJ7

rock-rod

tonedawgg

Jerry Blair

randii

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