TOTW: Ford 302 engine swaps

Hackfabricaton · Jun 11, 2006

Congratulations on getting it running!!!!!!!!!!!!

84MSRB · Jun 11, 2006

But is the YJ pump in a CJ tank workable? Thought I read on here that it was not. Like the pump is deeper or something like that.

Jerry Blair · Jun 11, 2006

Brandon said:
using the jeep pump inside rather than swapping to the ford one is arguable but as long as it supplies the pressure/flow required your golden

There is nothing "arguable" here at all. The jeep pumps work fine. The second part of the sentence says it perfectly:

"as long as it supplies the pressure/flow required your golden"

Hackfabricaton · Jun 11, 2006

The only real issue I see in using 'any' intank style pump with the stock CJ fuel tank is the possible absence of a sump or baffling to prevent cavitation (sucking air) when running low on fuel or in severe angles that the vehicle might get into while wheeling. Other than that, as long as the pump is capable of flowing the needed amount of fuel at the necessary pressure for the injectors...It'll work.

I considered running an aftermarket 190 LPH intank pump adapted to my TrailQuest tank, but decided to go with the dual pump setup similar to what Ford used on their F series pickups. And what was detailed on: http://fordfuelinjection.com/Inject_your_horse3.pdf

This allows the use of an accumulator/filter combo (available from BC Broncos for $70).

Jeeper Tim · Jun 11, 2006

84MSRB said:
Ordered motor mounts- I suppose that is the point of no return. Will post on the progress as it happens- maybe even with pictures, if I can figure out how to do that.
I read on here about the different parts needed to bolt the 5.0 to the T176- but it takes forever to find that post. Anybody want to help me with that list?

The T176 is a ford transmission - I think it will be a standard ford bolt pattern. It's been a few years but it seems I remember the T176 and the T150 were both ford patterns. I think a ford flywheel, ford pressure plate, ford bell housing, ford throwout bearing, and Jeep pressure plate is the route I went.

Martysmilt · Jun 12, 2006

Locating engine in frame

Hi guys,
Can anyone tell me how high in the frame rails they set the engine at the front of the Jeep? I assume that the engine will end up with just enough room to clear the radiator with no fan front to back.
I am in the process of fitting my 1995 YJ with a 1988 H.O. fron a Mustang the transmission is a C4 and Dana 20 two stick. The automatic is to keep my wife happy. She hates to drive stick and I confess to getting lazy now and again.
Marty Smiltneek
1st post from Wisconsin

Jeeper Tim · Jun 12, 2006

I scooted mine far enough back I can run the stock fan with about 1" to spare. I'd go as low as you can. Here's where mine sets (don't use a truck motor - this thing has turned into a PITA!)

Center of crank pulley is a little below the top of the frame... maybe 1.5".

Stowe · Jun 12, 2006

I sit about 4 inchs from the radiator... I did put an electric fan in so I clear maybe an inch and a half. My engine sits as far back as I could get it without messing with the fire wall. It also sits high... it is about 2 inches from the hood, and above the frame rails. However, for driveline sake...I wish I would have made it 2 inches lower.

Here is an idea of where she sits:

Here is a side view of my tranny (C6):

And the t-case before it was clocked (NP205):

It seems to be raining today... but I will try and get more pics of it now.

Jerry Blair · Jun 12, 2006

Mine sits on stock Mustang motor mounts that are mounted even with the top of the frame rail. I pulled everything forward so that the fan sits about 1 inch from the radiator.

With my atlas II rotated nearly flat and an AOD tranny it is barely below the frame rails. About 1".

Jeeper Tim · Jun 12, 2006

Are you guys running body lifts? I'm running a AOD and a 1345 and there is just not room to cram it high enough. Without the t-case the tranny pan hangs down almost 2" below the rails, the t-case hangs about 5" below the rails. I can barely stick a finger between the floor and the case so no room to go up. I'm going to wind up with a hump under the t-case about 2" lower than the stock skid was. I'm not liking that much.

Jason M · Jun 12, 2006

What is the standard "tilt" that you guys are running. Mine seems to have more angle that I really like, but with a rear sump it does not seem like it is that big of a deal.

Jerry Blair · Jun 12, 2006

Tim,
I have a 1" body lift. I have plenty of room for the AOD. As I said, I moved the engine as far forward as I could, I made my own frame mounts for the motor mounts. Engine is centered in chassis. I can easily slide my hand above the tranny or t-case anywhere under the Jeep. The back of the block sits about even with the most forward part of the rear mount for the front springs.

Jason M · Jun 12, 2006

Pic for refrence.
The pic is kinda deceptive, theway the fenders angle up makes it look worse than it really is.

Jerry Blair · Jun 12, 2006

Jason,
I didn't measure the tilt by degrees, but with the upper intake off and a level on the lower intake manifold, I am about half a bubble out of level.

Jason M · Jun 12, 2006

I know I am more than that..

Is there any real reason to be concerned with the level issue?

Jeeper Tim · Jun 12, 2006

Jerry Blair said:
Tim,
I have a 1" body lift. I have plenty of room for the AOD. As I said, I moved the engine as far forward as I could, I made my own frame mounts for the motor mounts. Engine is centered in chassis. I can easily slide my hand above the tranny or t-case anywhere under the Jeep. The back of the block sits about even with the most forward part of the rear mount for the front springs.

Looks like you are running an atlas - I may have to do something like that I suppose. That 1345 is huge, I mean really huge.

yjinsane · Jun 12, 2006

1995 YJ swaping in 302 issues!

Hello fellow jeepers,

I'm in the middle of a project that has been sitting for about 2 years now. My wife is complaining about the monstosity in the garage and how one day we could go back to the trails in Telico. I started back into it and I'm, of course with any swap, face with a few issues. I'm new to this forum and from what I've read...it's awesome!

Equipment:
1995 YJ with a 302 HO out of a 92 mustang. High tork cam, rebuilt engine, mustang wiring harness.
AOD transmission rebuilt w/NP231 transfercase. Advance Adapter supplied the slip yoke elimnator kit, 23 spline shaft, and the adapter kit. Lokar shifter
Larger radiator.

What I've done:
Engine is in and because of the length of the AOD I moved it as foward as possible because of drive line concerns. I also had to shift the engine about an inch and a half to the passenger side to line up the rear drive shaft and clear the steering rod.

HELP! These are the issues.
I got only 4" between the radiator and the front of the fan pulley. I think I went foward to much but I'm not moving the engine again. I was told to use an electric fan from a ford escort but it wasn't even close. I want to go electric without spending a fortune. I need thin.

Wiring. From reading everyone says to call Ford's Tech Hot Line 810-468-1356..doesn't work. I need the Probst pamphet. I'm using the stock mustang harness and computer. Anyone know where I can get it?

Thank you very much!!!!:cool2:

yjinsane · Jun 12, 2006

Hey Jerry,

I read I little after I made my post and seems to me you have about the exact setup I do. My engine is I think is a little further up than your's. It's about an inch forward from the front most part of the rear spring mounts.
I also measured again from the fan mounting point..3" to the radiator. 4" from the belts. Electric and thin is what I want. What are you using?

ANy help on the wiring? I have a stock mustang harness.

Thanks for your time.

Jerry Blair · Jun 12, 2006

yjinsane said:
Hey Jerry,

I read I little after I made my post and seems to me you have about the exact setup I do. My engine is I think is a little further up than your's. It's about an inch forward from the front most part of the rear spring mounts.
I also measured again from the fan mounting point..3" to the radiator. 4" from the belts. Electric and thin is what I want. What are you using?

ANy help on the wiring? I have a stock mustang harness.

Thanks for your time.

Just measured mine and I have 4.5" between radiator and where the stock fan bolts on. I am using the stock fan. I have a little more than a inch between the radiator and the fan. Either find a thin fan or maybe get a pusher for the front of the radiator. Not quite as effecient (so I've been told) but will probably work. You could also get an inexpensive flex fan to fit that space.

What do you need with the wiring? It is laid out well in some of the earlier posts. Really very simple. PM me with any specific questions. I wrote down everything I did, I just have to go look it up.

The Ford Racing number you listed at the top has a new area code. I don't have it handy. Call information.

Hackfabricaton · Jun 12, 2006

There are lots of success stories in this thread concerning using the stock mustang harness. I've got a copy of the Ford Racing harness manual they used to sell with their harnesses, but by itself, I didn't find it to be that helpful. Send me an email at: hackfabrication@hotmail.com. I can probably copy it and send it to ya.

How much smog related stuff do you have to run in Georgia? There's ways to strip most of that outta the stock harness if you don't need to run TAB/TAD/EGR/CANP or smog pump.

TOTW: Ford 302 engine swaps

Hackfabricaton

84MSRB

Jerry Blair

Hackfabricaton

Jeeper Tim

Martysmilt

Jeeper Tim

Stowe

Jerry Blair

Jeeper Tim

Jason M

Jerry Blair

Jason M

Jerry Blair

Jason M

Jeeper Tim

yjinsane

yjinsane

Jerry Blair

Hackfabricaton

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