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erez

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

did the search an all I can find is this post:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=632081

I'm looking for something a little different. I intend on building a kit that will replace the original spring and shock with a fox Shox 3.0 inch coilover.
i'm looking to improve its mobility and fast traveling and not extreme rock crawling.

beacuse of cotumer restraints i canno't change the arms or ball joints.
thus the travel will stay as original.

will apreciate any suggestion and if any one attempted to do such a thing.

with thanks
Erez
 
#2 · (Edited)
I've done such a thing

DO-replace the stock ball joints with a heavy duty racing version
DO--Do the match so you get the right springs, and or right lower attachment point and angle of the coil-over the first time
D0-plan on alot of alignments
Do-plan on keeping room for 3.5-4.0 inch bypass shocks

and have fun-- I'm getting ready to do it to one of my street driven hummers, just saving up the 15K needed for the shocks --
Image
 
#3 ·
reverhart said:
I've done such a thing

DO-replace the stock ball joints with a heavy duty racing version
DO--Do the match so you get the right springs, and or right lower attachment point and angle of the coil-over the first time
D0-plan on alot of alignments
Do-plan on keeping room for 3.5-4.0 inch bypass shocks

and have fun-- I'm getting ready to do it to one of my street driven hummers, just saving up the 15K needed for the shocks --
Image
Click to expand...
what was the final wheel travel numbers? I thought I remember'd you saying 18+ when you first started the race build and it seem'd A little much:confused:
 
#7 · (Edited)
I have cycle the Hall arms and was only able to come with 8" of usable travel at the shock? (the axle shaft hits the frame and the old ball joints bind) What kind of numbers at the shock didyou come up with?



Now on your Race truck, what length coil overs and bypasses are you running? They look to be 16-18".. If so wouldn't the Triple bypass now only be cycling in 2 stages? it looks like your getting 8-10" of shock movment?

Thanks for your quick replies:D
 
#8 ·
front are 12" bypass and coilovers, rear are 16"

they do fine the 16" i nthe rear don't cycle as well, but ok

We have custom cv axles, we were in fact hitting the frame, and had to put some spacers between the rotor and the start of the cv joint to stop this issue, be dented our frame about 3/4" on the corner where the cv shaft was hitting it at full bump--
lowering the differential can help also
 
#9 ·
Thanks... I wanted to ditch the Rod Hall arms for the same reason..
I also found that the mount for the bypass on the side was great, but the coil over mount in the center of the arm that uses two bolts from the bottom ,was just not gonna cut it for supporting the whole weight of the rig..

Do you have any final weights on the rig?
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
thanks guys
i learned a lot from you're answers but its not relevant to my project.
i'm not looking for added travel (mybe a little).
my job is to convert a standard H1 to coilovers with no changing the arms and not extreme changes to the vehicle. i need to make a little faster but not for racing. just fast mobility.
i have cotumer restaints and bump stop, arms, uniballs etc. are not to be used in this project.

would like to hear you're remarks

with thanks
Erez
 
#13 ·
You’re going to have issues... First one is trying to come up with some sort of shock mount that will support the weight and NOT intrude into the bed or cargo area... the front will be a little easier but your still going to have to watch out for steering and half shaft clearance..

I was able to squeeze a little more travel but only to the point of shaft clearance on up travel and ball joint bind on down travel...

IMHO... I would change spring rates to fit your need (not some that are made to carry over a ton) and find a GOOD shock to start playing with VALVING... NOT change to a coil over.....

I think with a softer spring and a dialed shock you could get ALOT better ride and performance..


Now if your SET on going coil over you will only need about an 8" coil over because that is all the travel your going to be able to SQUEEEEZZZZEE out of it at the shock mounts with mod'd stock arms..my.02
 
#14 · (Edited)
I agree the only way to really do coil-overs for any real benifit is caging/tubing the rear end--but you will ahve to cut into the inner fenderwell
here are some pictures to help guide you

 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
Thanks again for your response.

After talking to the client, it apprears we will be using Fox coilovers 2.5'' with a remote resovoir. We will use a 10'' shock. I know the shock is to small, this is a restraint the customer has added (we might add another shock to compansate- once again, restraints). we know that the viechle whight can be supported on a spring that mounts on to the 2.5''.

Reguarding the actuall build, i must stress again that due to customer restraints we can't change A arms, balljoints etc etc. What we CAN do is build shock towers that require trimming, so I don't mind intruding into the bed or cargo area.

Any more ideas?

Thanks again for all your help (and yes, the customer restraints piss me off as well...).

Erez.
 
#16 ·
lol... I feel for ya there.

Try having the customer insist that you mount quad bypass shocks and coil-overs both 18" long to pretty much STOCK a-arms that only move 8"....

He wanted the "look" of 18" shocks but was only using 8" of travel:shaking:.... Yes, that makes the bypasses totally worthless because they are only running in 2 stages....:( And all the time telling you that the rig will have 20+ inches of wheel travel no matter how much you cycled the suspension to show him that you can't get that much travel because of axle shaft clearance and ball joint bind..:(

Live and learn... Some jobs are better left alone...
 
#17 ·
Tin Bender said:
Live and learn... Some jobs are better left alone...
Click to expand...
All fab guys should have that posted in their office....and in the back of their minds.
 
#18 · (Edited)
I confess I don't know too much about coil-overs and suspension tech (I have limited experience playing with Rob's race truck and my own air suspension mods) but since the stock shocks act as both the bump stop and limiting factor in the hummer's suspension, would you not need some kind of suspension limiting arrangement when going to co's? Or can the co's function in that capacity as well?

rb
 
#19 ·
motochris said:
All fab guys should have that posted in their office....and in the back of their minds.
Click to expand...
If you build it they will pay.... Even if its stupid.
I've seen much stranger things done in the name of show. I know most of the people on here with a Hummer are more hard core, but your average hummer owner is a tool. Its about looks and show. Accept and move on.
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
hey guys
we have an update
begining with the good news, the costumer agreed to 3.0" coil-overs which makes the job more realistic. we are talking about adding another shock.
we have some questions and will apreciate answers:
1. the vehicle wheighs 3750 Kg in israel we do not have availability of springs for 3.0" shocks, can you tell me what kind of springs do you drive on and if you have thoughts on the kind of spring I need.
2. we thought on taking a spring from trophy trucks about 24" long (i remind you we almost do not add to the suspension travel), what do you think is better: this spring or 2 short springs ?
3. can any one give me the dimension of Fox coil-over 3.0" - shock out diameter (with the spring), what kind of bearing ? what type of nut for the bearing ? what the hiegt between the center of the bearing and the end of the shock from one side and to the spring mount on the other side
4. IF any one have a sketch or a drawing of a 3" fox coil-over shock i will appreciate a look :)
5. Im looking for Heavy-duty upper bull joint for the upper arm of the suspention - is someone can direct me to one it will be great
Thank you all
Erez
 
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erez
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